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Writer's pictureIzabel Philippa

Bolivia: The Explorer's Handbook - Southwest Edition


Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia - walking on salt flats covered with thin layer of water reflecting the clouds. This is also the largest natural mirror on Earth.
Salar de Uyuni

Step into the wild frontier of South America as we embark on a bold and thought-provoking four-day road trip across the land border from Chile to Bolivia. Brace yourself for a drastic temperature drop of around 10 degrees Celsius as we set foot in South America's poorest country. Uncover a territory where adventure and challenges clash, clearly contrasting surrounding nations.


Our expedition takes us through southwestern Bolivia, where we uncover hidden gems and breathtaking landscapes. From the mesmerizing sunrise with nestled cacti at Isla Incahuasi to the iconic largest natural mirror on Earth, Salar de Uyuni, our itinerary was packed with unforgettable experiences. Encounter llamas, vicuñas, ostriches, vizcacha, and flamingos in their natural habitats, surrounded by stunning lagoons, geysers, and idyllic spots.


As we navigate the high altitudes and unexpected challenges, rest assured that the captivating landscapes make every moment worthwhile. Join us as we dive into a whole new world filled with charm, surprises, and phenomenal sights that will leave you speechless.


In this blog post, I'll share our detailed itinerary, highlighting the highs and lows of our journey. Discover what to watch out for and how to maximize your adventure in this unique destination. Remember, booking a guided tour is key to a smooth and rewarding experience. While we usually prefer to explore independently, Bolivia's rugged terrain and unfamiliar territory make a guided tour the safest and most enjoyable option.


Get ready for a rollercoaster of emotions as I unveil the good, the bad, and the downright crazy moments of our expedition. Stay tuned for an insider's perspective on exploring Bolivia!


 

GENERAL INFORMATION

Bolivia, officially known as the Plurinational State of Bolivia, has a rich and complex history dating back to ancient civilizations such as the Tiwanaku and Inca empires. The country gained independence from Spanish colonial rule in 1825, becoming one of the first independent nations in South America. Bolivia has experienced political turmoil, social upheaval, and cultural diversity, shaping its unique identity as a land of contrasts and resilience.


Isla Incahuasi cacti and Salar de Uyuni views at sunrise
Isla Incahuasi

Location: Bolivia is a landlocked country situated in the heart of South America, bordered by five countries: Peru and Chile to the west, Argentina and Paraguay to the south, and Brazil to the north and east. Its central location on the continent makes Bolivia a diverse and culturally rich nation with a unique blend of influences from its neighbouring countries.

 

Etymology: Bolivia is named after Simón Bolívar, the Venezuelan military and political leader who played a key role in South America's independence movements in the early 19th century. The country was named in honour of Bolívar to commemorate his efforts in liberating several South American nations from Spanish colonial rule. The name "Bolivia" is a tribute to Bolívar's legacy and his contributions to the region's independence and political development.


Symbol: One of Bolivia's most iconic symbols is the Wiphala. The Wiphala is a square emblem made up of seven horizontal stripes in rainbow colours, each representing a different Andean nation. It is a symbol of the indigenous peoples of the Andes and is often used to represent unity, diversity, and Bolivia's indigenous heritage.The Wiphala holds significant cultural and political importance in Bolivia, symbolizing the country's multi-ethnic and multicultural identity. It is commonly seen in public ceremonies, official events, and protests as a symbol of indigenous pride and resistance.


Size: 1,099 km² (245,000 mi²)


Capital: Sucre holds the official title of the constitutional capital, but La Paz is often viewed as the practical capital due to its prominence and influence in contemporary Bolivia.


Sucre and La Paz are both important cities in Bolivia, each with its own unique characteristics and historical significance. While Sucre is recognized as the constitutional capital of Bolivia, La Paz is often considered the de facto capital by many people.Sucre, known as the "White City" due to its colonial architecture, holds the title of the constitutional capital because it is where Bolivia's constitution was signed in 1825. It is also home to important government institutions, such as the Supreme Court.


Sucre's historical significance and preserved colonial charm make it an important cultural and historical center in Bolivia.On the other hand, La Paz is the largest city in Bolivia and serves as the administrative capital where the government's executive and legislative branches are located. It is a bustling metropolis nestled in the Andes mountains, known for its vibrant culture, markets, and political activity. Many people consider La Paz to be the true capital of Bolivia due to its economic and political importance.


Population: Bolivia has a population of approximately 12,02 million people (2022), making it one of South America's most sparsely populated countries. The population of Bolivia is diverse, with a mix of indigenous groups, mestizos, Europeans, and people of African descent contributing to the country's rich cultural tapestry. The majority of the population resides in urban areas, particularly in cities like La Paz, Santa Cruz, and Cochabamba.


Languages: The official languages of Bolivia are Spanish and Quechua, reflecting the country's diverse cultural heritage. Additionally, Aymara is recognized as an official language in certain regions of Bolivia. Spanish is the most widely spoken language in the country, followed by Quechua and Aymara, which are predominantly spoken by indigenous populations. The linguistic diversity in Bolivia is a testament to its rich cultural traditions and heritage.


Currency: Bolivian boliviano ; For reference: 1 BOB = 0,13 EUR; 1 BOB = 0,14 USD


Economy: Bolivia's economy is characterized by a mix of natural resources, agriculture, manufacturing, and services. It has seen significant growth and development in recent years, driven by various factors such as natural resource extraction, government policies, and international trade.


Natural Resources:

  • Bolivia is rich in natural resources, including minerals such as tin, silver, and lithium. The mining sector plays a significant role in the country's economy, contributing to exports and government revenue.

  • Bolivia is also known for its vast natural gas reserves, which have become a significant source of income through exports to neighbouring countries.

Agriculture:

  • Agriculture is an important sector in Bolivia's economy, with products such as soybeans, quinoa, and coffee being major exports. The country's diverse climate and fertile lands support various agricultural activities.

  • Small-scale farming is widespread in Bolivia, with many rural communities relying on agriculture for their livelihoods. The government has implemented programs to support small farmers and promote sustainable agriculture practices.

Manufacturing and Services:

  • The manufacturing sector in Bolivia includes industries such as food processing, textiles, and machinery. While manufacturing plays a role in the economy, it is less prominent than other sectors.

  • The services sector, including tourism, telecommunications, and financial services, is growing in Bolivia. The government has taken steps to promote tourism and attract foreign investment in the service industry.


Economic Challenges:

  • Bolivia faces challenges like income inequality, infrastructure limitations, and dependence on volatile commodity prices. The country's economy is also vulnerable to external factors such as global market fluctuations.  

  • Social and political factors, including government policies and public unrest, can impact the stability and growth of Bolivia's economy.


flamingos flying in Bolivia and llamas grazing below them



Best time to visit: Bolivia is a country with diverse landscapes and varying climates, offering visitors a unique travel experience throughout the year. When planning your trip to Bolivia, it's essential to consider the different seasons and how they may impact your travel plans. One of the highlights of visiting Bolivia is the opportunity to witness the world's largest natural mirror effect at the Salar de Uyuni. This stunning salt flat that transforms into a reflective surface during the wet season.






Dry Season (May to October):  

  • The dry season in Bolivia is a popular time for many travellers to visit. During this period, the weather is typically sunny and dry, making it ideal for outdoor activities and sightseeing.  

  • The dry season is perfect for exploring Bolivia's diverse landscapes, from the Andean highlands to the Amazon rainforest. It is also an excellent time for trekking, wildlife spotting, and cultural experiences. 

  • However, if you are specifically interested in witnessing the world's largest natural mirror effect at the Salar de Uyuni, the dry season may not provide the optimal conditions for this phenomenon.





Wet Season (November to April):  

  • The wet season in Bolivia brings increased rainfall and warmer temperatures to the region. This period is ideal for experiencing the natural beauty of Bolivia in a different light.  

  • If you want to see the world's largest natural mirror effect at the Salar de Uyuni, the wet season is the best time to visit. The rainwater creates a thin layer on the salt flat, producing the mesmerizing mirror-like reflections that attract visitors from around the world.  

  • While the wet season may come with some challenges, such as muddy conditions, the chance to witness this extraordinary natural phenomenon makes it a rewarding time to visit Bolivia.


What to pack:

  • Travel adapter - ensure you can charge your devices with the proper plug adapter in Bolivia.

  • Power bank - essential for charging your devices as there are limited places to charge during the day, and locals may not allow you to use their electricity.

  • Layer clothing - temperatures can vary greatly, so pack clothing that can easily be added or removed to stay comfortable throughout the day.

  • A towel – for Polques Hot Springs.

  • Comfortable shoes - necessary for exploring Bolivia's diverse landscapes, from the Andes mountains to the salt flats of Uyuni.

  • Sunscreen - protect your skin from the intense sun exposure at high altitudes by regularly applying sunscreen.

  • Water bottle - stay hydrated while exploring Bolivia's stunning natural beauty and high-altitude destinations.

  • Hat and sunglasses - shield yourself from the intense sun rays and high-altitude glare.

  • First aid kit - be prepared for any minor injuries or illnesses while travelling in remote areas of Bolivia.

  • Snacks - have some non-perishable snacks on hand for Bolivia long bus/car rides or hikes.Camera – no need to say why.

 

Local food: Corn, potatoes, quinoa, and beans are the cornerstone ingredients of Bolivian cuisine. These foundational elements have been paired with a variety of staples introduced by the Spanish, such as rice, wheat, beef, and pork.


Some typical foods from Bolivia include:

  • Salteñas: A type of baked empanada filled with meat, potatoes, peas, and a slightly sweet sauce.

  • Silpancho: A dish consisting of a breaded and fried beef cutlet served with rice, potatoes, and a fried egg on top.

  • Sopa de Maní: A peanut quinoa soup made with beef, vegetables, and thickened with ground peanuts.

  • Pique a lo macho: A spicy dish made with sautéed beef, onions, tomatoes, and chilies, served over a bed of fries and topped with a fried egg.

  • Plátano maduro: Fried sweet plantains served as a side dish or snack.

  • Api: A warm corn-based drink flavored with cinnamon and served with cheese on the side.

  • Chicha morada: A sweet and refreshing drink made from purple corn, pineapple, cinnamon, and cloves.


Drones: Drones are allowed in Bolivia, but there are regulations and restrictions in place. It is important to check the latest rules and regulations before flying a drone in Bolivia or anywhere else.


Stay connected: Fully embracing the adventure, we opted out of purchasing a data plan since we had a driver, relying instead on the limited Wi-Fi available at our accommodations. While it was a bit nerve-wracking, it also provided a welcome opportunity to disconnect. It's important to note that many accommodations and meal stops may charge extra for Wi-Fi usage.


If you don't want to follow our example, you could try an eSIM.Get US$3 off your first eSIM data pack from Airalo. Use code IZABEL8446 when you sign up or apply it at checkout. 

Requirements for entering Bolivia: Most nationalities are eligible for visa-free entry, and will receive a stamp upon arrival. I needed a visa and it was quite a stressful and chaotic experience. If you do require a visa, you can apply through the Sistema de Solicitud Visas.


There is also a form to fill before entering Bolivia – usually you will receive all necessary information from the travel agency you booked with. However, I will share everything below:

  • Passport and original PDI Tourism card (the entry document to Chile)

  • Declaration form 250 for Bolivian customs


 

HOW TO GET AROUND

our vehicle

When heading to Uyuni in Bolivia's southwest, consider joining an organized tour for a stress-free adventure. The roads can be tricky (or even disappear!), so GPS won't be much help. The road conditions in this area are challenging, and getting lost is a real possibility. There is a high risk of vehicle breakdowns. 4x4 is a must. While we typically prefer self-guided tours, after thorough research and consulting with friends who have visited, we decided on an organized tour without hesitation. Opting for a private tour may come at a higher cost, so it is worth considering joining a group tour to save money.


Regardless of the tour type, the sights and experiences will be similar. Choosing a private tour allowed us to have our camera equipment, snacks, and belongings inside the vehicle for convenience and comfort.


In a group tour, luggage is likely to be placed on top of the vehicle, and you will have very limited space inside. We valued having our essentials close at hand during the journey, also choosing the pace of the trip and how long to stay at each of the stops.


 

ALTITUDE ADAPTATION

Adapting to the high altitudes you are about to conquer in southwest Bolivia is essential for a comfortable and enjoyable experience. Altitude sickness can significantly impact your enjoyment of the region. To prevent this, it is recommended to acclimatize gradually by spending a few days at elevations between 1000m and 2000m.


If you are coming to southwest Bolivia from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, you are likely already acclimatized to the region’s altitudes. The gradual increase in elevation from San Pedro de Atacama to Bolivia helps prepare your body for higher altitudes.

Additional tips for acclimatization include staying hydrated, avoiding strenuous physical activity, eating light meals, and prioritizing rest.


Local advice suggests chewing on coca leaves to alleviate altitude symptoms. For those who have not had the opportunity to acclimatize, it is advisable to acquire Acetazolamide from a local pharmacy in Uyuni to alleviate altitude-related discomfort.


 

DAY BY DAY ITINERARY

We reserved a 4-day, 3-night private tour with Cruz Andina Travel Uyuni Salt Flats. This is a 3-full day tour with meals included; the fourth day is not an exploration, but a return to Chile.


We made an online booking to secure our spots and to organize all our travel paperwork in advance. Obtaining my visa was a challenging and disorganized process – in addition to filling out the form mentioned in the' entry requirements' section, I had to make numerous calls to schedule an appointment and visit the embassy in person. The appointment was delayed by two hours from the original time, and I ended up paying more for my visa application than I was supposed due to unknown reasons.


Despite having all the necessary documents in the system, the embassy's consul had to re-enter the information on his computer manually. For travellers from countries requiring a visa for entry into Bolivia, I strongly recommend avoiding the risk of doing it on arrival and being prepared for a hassle-free entry into the country.


 

DAY 1.

border control Chile - Bolivia

Our journey began in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. As mentioned, we had pre-booked a tour with Cruz Andina Travel online, although tours could also be arranged on-site in Atacama.


The pick-up time for departure is typically between 6 and 6:30 AM from your hotel in town. Regardless of whether you opted for a private or group tour, you will travel with other guests up to the Chilean-Bolivian border. The entry point to Bolivia may welcome you with icy conditions and snow. The border opens at 8 AM, so arriving early may result in a brief wait until it opens. Upon arrival, a queue of tours will be waiting at the border.

 

Upon border opening, the first step is presenting your PDI document to the Chilean authorities, followed by a chilly waiting time outside for a stamp on the Bolivian side.

 

At this point, your luggage will be unloaded from the shared bus, and you will have breakfast outside before transferring to a different vehicle for your group or private tour. All vehicles are of the same type and size, with a 4x4 being essential for surviving the Bolivian expedition.


Before the journey begins, there is a third checkpoint where you must present Declaration form 250.

 

And, of course, why make it easy when there could be another stop a few meters ahead? At this fourth checkpoint, you must provide your passport details and pay an entrance fee of Bs. 150 to the Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa.

 

LICANCABUR VOLCANO

As you journey into Bolivia, your eyes will be drawn to the majestic Lincancabur Volcano standing proudly at the border of Chile. This active stratovolcano, reaching a staggering height of 5,916 m (19409.449 ft), serves as a dramatic backdrop to the region.

 

Did you know that the upper reaches of Licanacabur have also served as a testing ground for NASA experiments? Scientists used this harsh environment to simulate the conditions of Mars 3.5 billion years ago before the planet lost its ability to support life. The thin atmosphere, high ultraviolet radiation, and extreme temperature fluctuations make Lincancabur a perfect stand-in for the red planet in preparation for future missions. It's a fascinating reminder of the otherworldly wonders that Bolivia has to offer.


Laguna Blanca, Bolivia - water reflections

LAGUNA BLANCA

Upon entering the national park, we were immediately captivated by the mesmerizing mirroring effect of the salt waters of Laguna Blanca. The mountains' reflections and the looming presence of the Licancabur volcano in the background created a truly awe-inspiring scene. The lake is situated in an endorheic basin, meaning it retains water without outflow to other bodies of water. With an elevation of 4,350 m (14271.65 ft), a surface area of 10.9 km² (6.77 mi²), and a length of 5.6 km (3.47 mi), Laguna Blanca gets its name from its characteristic white colour caused by an abundance of suspended minerals.

 


During the wet season, the gravel and sand road between the lakes can pose a challenge, so it's important to be prepared for potential difficulties. Heavy storms can render Laguna Blanca and surrounding lakes completely inaccessible at times.

 

LAGUNA VERDE

Adjacent to Laguna Blanca is Laguna Verde, separated only by a narrow strip of

land. While we enjoyed our time at Laguna Blanca, our experience at Laguna Verde was slightly less impressive. Named for its supposed emerald colour, the lake's hue can vary from turquoise to dark emerald based on sediment disturbances. The colouration is due to mineral suspensions of arsenic, magnesium, carbonate, and calcium from the subsoil. Unfortunately, Laguna Verde does not support wildlife due to the presence of poisonous arsenic in the water.

 

DALI DESERT

After visiting these two lagoons we passed by Dali Desert, known for its surreal landscapes and striking resemblance to Salvador Dali’s artwork. The desert is characterized by its vast expanse of barren white and grey terrain, dotted with unique rock formations and volcanic rocks.

Salvador Dali Deseret, Bolivia


POLQUES HOT SPRINGS

Next, we stopped at Polques Hot Springs for a therapeutic dip and breakfast.

Polques Hot Springs provides visitors with the opportunity to bathe in warm thermal waters. These natural springs are fed by underground geothermal sources and formed by volcanic activity from the nearby Polques Volcano. The hot springs waters have a comfortable temperature of around 29°C and are believed to have healing properties due to their high mineral content. They are ideal for a soothing soak to relieve the symptoms of arthritis and rheumatism.


TIPS:

  • There are changing facilities on site, but they could be wet, slippery, and dirty. Bring warm clothing and a towel to dry off.

  • The toilets there are Inca-style, meaning you must put sand on top – imagine the smell. The sinks to wash your hands had no running water.

  • If you wish to use the bathroom and the hot springs, there is a fee of Bs. 30.

I would have skipped the bathrooms if I knew how it would affect my appetite for the day. I'm not going to lie, it was not the most delightful experience of my life.


There are a few small buildings next to the hot springs, which are set up as a tourist trap and a mandatory breakfast stop due to the lack of other options in the area. Unfortunately, here we also had a less than ideal experience and encountered impolite people who didn't even want to greet us, regardless that we said hello in their native language. I gave them the benefit of the doubt and tried again, but they still refused to acknowledge me, even though they clearly heard me. I don't know why, but I hoped and politely asked if they would allow me to charge my phone since there were plenty of free electricity plugs. However, they gave a very clear "no" in response. At least I got a reply and acknowledgement for my existence here.

 

We've visited many places of all kinds, and I didn't expect a 5-star experience, knowing that Bolivia is South America's poorest country. However, in my personal encounters, those with less have always been the kindest and most welcoming. I enjoy these interactions and exchanges, but unfortunately, our few days in Bolivia showed this to be the norm.


I felt that the locals didn't like tourists and viewed us as invaders. They weren't aggressive in trying to sell us things, nor were they annoying, but they were cold and indifferent. There were some exceptions to this, but we didn't feel welcome in this part of Bolivia. I will mention other situations on this topic later in this article.

 

SOL DE MAÑANA GEYSERS

Let’s continue to another beautiful sight – Sol de Mañana. Sol de Mañana, which means Morning Sun in Spanish, is a geothermal area covering 10 km² (6.21371 mi²) and located at an altitude of 4,850 m (15912.07 ft).


Sol de Manana Geysers, Bolivia

You will be amazed by the sight of hot steam rising from the geysers, reaching heights up to 15 m (49.2126 ft). The name Sol de Mañana alludes to the morning sun, as this is when the steam displays its most impressive show. The interplay of sunlight, air temperature, and steam creates a mesmerizing view that is best captured with a camera. Morning in Sol de Mañana offers a one-of-a-kind experience that will leave you in awe.

 

The area boasts geysers, bubbling mud pots, and a sulphur smell. This desert region is known for its volcanic activity, starkly contrasting the nearby salt flats. Researchers have been exploring the potential of harnessing geothermal energy in Sol de Mañana as a sustainable power source. The clean and renewable energy generated from this area could potentially meet the electricity needs of many people in Bolivia, highlighting the dual significance of this beautiful location.

 

LAGUNA COLORADA

Laguna Colorada, also known as the Red Lagoon, is a shallow lake near the Chilean border covering an expansive area of 6000 hectares (14826.32 acres). The lake’s water is only one meter deep and ranges in colour from deep blue to dark red tones due to red sediments and algae. Despite folklore suggesting the water is the blood of Gods, the colour is actually caused by natural elements in the water.

 

A major draw of Laguna Colorada is the opportunity to observe various flamingo species that inhabit the area. The lake's rich plankton reserves attract three out of the world's six flamingo species, including the critically endangered James' Flamingo, once presumed extinct until its rediscovery in 1956. While the summer months offer the best chances to witness a multitude of flamingos, our visit in February revealed a significant presence of these graceful birds. Those who remain during the harsh winter season are typically unable to migrate due to their weakened state.

 

Did you know that flamingos are born with white and grey feathers that gradually turn pink due to canthaxanthin, a natural dye derived from their food? The red algae present in Laguna Colorada further enhances their feathers, creating a vibrant pink hue that adds to the visual splendour of this captivating natural setting.






salt flat viewpoint, Bolivia

SALAR DE CAPINA

Salar de Capina viewpoint - this salt flat is not as well-known as the famous Salar de Uyuni, but it is still a stunning natural attraction worth visiting. The salt flat covers an area of approximately 2,300 km² (1429.154 mi²)  and is surrounded by mountains, creating a breathtaking and unique landscape.

 

VILLA MAR

Overnight in Villa Mar—Villa Mar is a small town in the Oruro Department of Bolivia. The town offers basic amenities such as accommodations, making it a convenient stop for travellers exploring the surrounding areas. Villa Mar provides visitors with a tranquil and authentic Bolivian experience.



We arrived on time for dinner at our first accommodation but soon regretted eating that night. Like everything in Bolivia, we had to pay Bs. 10 per person for Wi-Fi, which was acceptable, and we were happy to contribute with something, even offering this money without being asked. However, what was not acceptable was that even basic needs weren't met at our first stay, such as a second roll of toilet paper, especially considering that Nico received as a "welcome gift" severe food poisoning. When we asked for it, we were met with a very rude demand for payment from the same lady who had caused his food poisoning. Fortunately, being plant-based, I rarely have stomach problems while travelling.


The night was tough, with strong winds and rain. I had to wrap a scarf around me as I could feel all the weather conditions through the window beside my head. It was a freezing, sleepless night, worsened by the unpleasant odours coming from outside, while Nico spent the night in the bathroom. We didn't even need an alarm to wake up early the next day because we couldn't sleep a wink.


 

DAY 2.


After the sleepless night, despite the tiredness and worries regarding Nico's health condition, we continued the journey because, in light of the few challenges, the landscapes were to die for. They are really incredible.



Ciudad de Pedra, Bolivia

CIUDAD DE PEDRA

Ciudad de Piedra, also known as the "City of Rocks," is a unique natural wonder. This rocky destination is known for its striking rock formations that resemble a cityscape, hence its name. One of the most famous formations in Ciudad de Piedra is "La Copa del Mundo," which translates to "The World Cup" due to its spherical shape resembling a trophy.

 

Another prominent rock formation in Ciudad de Piedra is "El Camello," which means "The Camel" in Spanish, named after its resemblance to a camel's hump. Visitors to Ciudad de Piedra can marvel at these intriguing rock formations, explore the rugged landscape, and appreciate the natural beauty of this distinctive site.

 

The City of Rocks offers a unique opportunity for outdoor enthusiasts, hikers, and nature lovers to immerse themselves in a landscape unlike any other in Bolivia.




 

LAGUNA NEGRA

Laguna Negra, Potosí - this enchanting high-altitude lake, nestled amidst the picturesque Andean landscapes, offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life.

As we walked through the emerald green wetlands of Potosí, feeling the gentle raindrops on my face, we were led to the hidden sanctuary of Laguna Negra.

 

The lagoon is hidden behind a row of rocks, and the path to it is as beautiful as the lagoon itself. It is a place where you can appreciate the immensity of nature, take a quiet walk, and totally escape from the madding crowd.

 

Upon reaching the black lagoon, a vibrant display of life greeted us, with various species and their young thriving in this lush environment. The cute vizcachas and the graceful small ducks added to the scene’s charm, creating a harmonious ecosystem that resonated with tranquillity. As we made our way back to the vehicle, the rain ceased, revealing an extraterrestrial sight: hundreds of llamas and their adorable babies grazing peacefully in an idyllic setting surrounded by flowing water streams, a surreal image straight out of a fairytale.

 

Laguna Negra felt like a spiritual retreat, a place where nature's beauty and serenity come together to create an unforgettable experience. My time there was a profound journey of reflection and gratitude, a moment of connection with the essence of life that will forever hold a special place in my heart.

 





Canon de la Anaconda, Bolivia, Potosi

CAÑON DE LA ANACONDA

Cañon de la Anaconda in Bolivia is known for its diverse wildlife and rugged beauty, but also for the way the water flowing down the canyon resembles the winding shape of an anaconda. This unique feature adds a touch of enchantment to the already mesmerizing landscape.Standing at the edge of the canyon, watching the water cascade down in a serpentine pattern, it's hard not to be captivated by the resemblance to the iconic snake.

 

As you journey through Cañon de la Anaconda, you will be surrounded by towering cliffs, lush vegetation, and the sound of rushing water from the river that carved the canyon over thousands of years. The winding trails and hidden caves make exploration an exciting adventure for nature enthusiasts and thrill-seekers.

 

PUEBLO DE JULA

Pueblo de Jula is a small village in the Bolivian Andes known for its historic train station, which dates back to the early 20th century. The station was once a bustling hub for travellers and cargo, connecting the remote village to larger cities and regions across Bolivia.


The train station in Pueblo de Jula was a vital lifeline for the community, providing essential transportation for goods and people to and from the village. The station was crucial for the region's economy, facilitating trade and commerce between the village and the outside world.


Today, the old train station in Pueblo de Jula stands as a reminder of a bygone era. The once bustling platform is now quiet and overgrown with weeds, the tracks rusted and unused. The station building is a weathered structure, its paint peeling and windows broken, but still retaining a sense of grandeur from its heyday.


Around the old train station in Pueblo de Jula, visitors can enjoy a tasting tour of local beers with unique flavours. Try a beer with aloe for a refreshing taste, or sample a brew infused with coca leaves for a hint of bitterness. For a sweeter option, enjoy a fruity beer made with passion fruit or guava. I am not a beer person, but this is what your driver will recommend you do - another tourist trap or a truly unique taste-enlightening experience you will tell me after.

 

HOTEL DE SAL

Overnight in a salt hotel – Hotel de Sal. These salt hotels are usually entirely constructed out of salt blocks, including the walls, floors and even some furniture. At our Hotel de Sal, the Wi-Fi was free, but it was not working.


There is much more to say, but I guess it is a must-do accommodation when going to visit Salar de Uyuni.


 

DAY 3.

 

ISLA INCAHUASI sunrise

Isla Incahuasi, also known as “Isla del Pescado” (Fish Island), is a rocky outcrop in the heart of the Salar de Uyuni.

The island offers a breathtaking spectacle at sunrise as the first light rays illuminate the vast white expanse, creating a magical and surreal atmosphere.

 

It’s famous for its towering cacti, some reaching up to 9 m (30 ft) in height, and unique geological formations.

 

Climbing to the island’s highest point, you’re rewarded with a breathtaking 360-degree view of the surrounding salt flats, bathed in the warm glow of the morning sun. From ancient coral reefs preserved in stone to panoramic vistas stretching to the horizon. Below, the vast expanse of white stretches to the edge of the earth, merging seamlessly with the sky in a display of surreal beauty.

 

Entrance fee: Bs. 30

 




SALAR DE UYUNI

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia - water reflections

Salar de Uyuni is famous for being the world's largest natural mirror, sitting at an elevation of 3,656 meters (11994.751 ft) above sea level amidst the Andes. This vast expanse of white salt covers 10,582 km² (6575.34996 mi²) and is visible from space. Layers of salt sandwiched between sedimentary deposits can reach depths of up to 10 meters (32.8084 ft) at the centre.

 

We mainly saw dry landscapes during our visit, even though we were there during the wet season when the chances of witnessing the mirroring effect are highest. To experience this phenomenon, you need heavy rainfall overnight, which tends to evaporate quickly. Luckily, we stumbled upon an area within the vast salt flats where we could witness the mirroring effect ourselves.

 

Aim for the wet season to catch this breathtaking sight, typically between November and April. During the wet season, increased rainfall covers Salar de Uyuni with a delicate layer of water, transforming it into a natural mirror that reflects the sky and surroundings, creating a surreal visual display. The mirror effect is most striking when the water is calm and shallow, perfectly reflecting the landscape.

 

Some titbits: Below the salt flat lies an estimated 10 billion tonnes of salt. There, you can find a lot of borax - a mineral used in various industrial applications (such as cleaning agent, pest control, preservative, flux in metallurgy, fertilizer, flame retardant, laundry detergent booster). Still the real treasure for locals is the lithium reserves, with about 70% of the world's lithium resources found here. An entire industry revolves around extracting this valuable metal, crucial for powering our everyday devices like laptops, smartphones, and electric cars.

 




During our visit to Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia, we checked out the Salt Museum, Las Banderas (The Flags), and Monumento Dakar. 

 

SALT MUSEUM

The Salt Museum is a fascinating museum located in the heart of the Salar de Uyuni. It showcases the history and importance of Bolivia’s salt flats and the traditional salt mining techniques used by the locals. The museum also offers stunning views of the vast salt flats surrounding it.

 

LAS BANDERAS (THE FLAGS)

Las Banderas, also known as The Flags, is a collection of colourful flags located on the outskirts of the salt flats. These flags represent the countries that have participated in the Dakar Rally, a famous off-road race that passes through the Salar de Uyuni.

 

MONUMENTO DAKAR

Monumento Dakar is a monument dedicated to the Dakar Rally, which is considered one of the most challenging and prestigious off-road races in the world. It is a popular spot for visitors to take photos and admire the stunning landscape of the salt flats.




 

In addition to visiting these must-see spots, we also had a blast taking some crazy and fun photos in Salar de Uyuni. From running from dinosaurs and escaping the attack of a gorilla while "riding" a llama to creating optical illusions with the vast expanse of salt.


The photos were captured by a local who had the best business concept at this tourist spot. He had a lot of props and creative ideas. We typically do not pause to take such photos, but we found it a must-do with this stunning backdrop. He snapped the pictures using my phone (he doesn't take camera photos). The funniest part was when we were posing. The guy charged us Bs. 20, which we were informed by our driver in advance. The price of this 'photography service' ranges between Bs. 10 and 20.







PUEBLO DE COLCHANE

After visiting the salt flats, we continued to Pueblo de Colchane village, which is known for its artisan salt crafts.

This village is home to talented artisans who create beautiful salt sculptures, jewellery, and souvenirs using the natural salt from the Salar de Uyuni.


We had the opportunity to explore the local shops and purchase some unique handmade souvenirs to remember our time in Bolivia.


Our favourite part is that we had some lovely interactions with the locals and enjoyed immersing ourselves in the rich and diverse culture of Bolivia as we walked and breathed deeper into its vibrant and colourful identity.

 




CEMENTERIO DE TRENES

Our last stop for exploration during this memorable trip was the Cementerio de Trenes, also known as the old train cemetery. Located near the town of Uyuni, this unique and eerie site is where abandoned trains from the 19th century are left to rust in the desert. It offers a fascinating glimpse into Bolivia's industrial past and an excellent backdrop for photography enthusiasts.


Cemeterio de Trenes, Bolivia - train cemetery

 

Filling out all the necessary forms for our departure the next day. Overnight at the same accommodation in Villa Mar.


 

DAY 4.


5 AM departure back to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. We watched the sunrise and had breakfast at Polques Hot Springs. 

 

Polques Hot Springs, Bolivia by sunrise

The procedures at Bolivia's exit border control were a bit shocking. We were treated like a flock of sheep and asked for money by one of the "authorities." Despite the frustrating border control procedures and encountering corruption there, the landscapes of southwestern Chile left us speechless. From stunning lagoons bustling with wildlife to majestic volcanoes, bubbling geysers, vast salt flats, and giant cacti nestled on an island in the world's largest natural mirror, our journey was filled with awe-inspiring sights.


In the end, despite the ups and downs, the beauty of nature and the rewards of our adventure made it all worthwhile. We found a piece of heaven in this remote corner of the world, and the memories we made will stay with us forever. Gracias, Bolivia!





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