Montenegro has never been high on my bucket list and I have always been keeping it for later until now… I was looking for flight tickets to closer destinations, with one requirement – to go somewhere NEW.
My boyfriend couldn’t join me, but he gave me his blessing to do this trip by myself and told me to be careful, of course. I’ve already done few solo trips in the past, but the last one was in 2017.
Before actually booking this flight I was going the whole way through until the end of the reservation and every time it was time to pay, I cancelled. Lol! I was very excited but definitely had to step out of my comfort zone and take another path to my usual travel.
In a couple, it’s easy to build a routine and to team up for every adventure, to go through difficulties and support each other. During this trip, I was on my own and at first, when I finally clicked this PAY NOW button, I got a bit anxious about my decision, but it passed away in a second and the adventurous spirit won. Would do it million more times if I had to choose.
Now some general info about Montenegro:
Location: Montenegro is located in southeastern Europe. It’s a small country in the Balkans (13’812 km2) bordering the Adriatic Sea, Serbia to the north and east, Albania to the south, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia to the west.
How to get there:
By air: Montenegro has two international airports: one in the capital, Podgorica, and one on the coast in Tivat. You could also fly to Dubrovnik and take a bus, or rent a car and drive to Tivat. The distance between the two is approximately 70km. I suggest you go by bus if you land in Dubrovnik and rent your car in Montenegro to avoid border crossing rental fees. It’s also easier to drop off the car in Montenegro if you don’t plan to go back to Croatia afterwards.
By ferry: There is currently only one ferry route operating weekly and running between Italy and Montenegro. The ferry starting and arrival points are Bari/ Italy and Bar/Montenegro. The scheduled duration of the trip is 11 hours.
Language: The official language of the country is Montenegrin which is a variety of the Serbo-Croatian language. Their Montenegrin Cyrillic alphabet is used in parallel with Latin script.
Currency: Euro. The country uses it as a de facto domestic currency, as they have no agreements with the EU.
Seasons: Europe’s weather patterns generally follow four distinct seasons: Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. The winters in general, are very cold and snowy, while summers are hot and there is no much rain.
Best time to travel: If you want to explore and enjoy some beach days, choose the period from May to October. Keep in mind that it gets very hot in July and August, and the beaches are packed. A good escape plan to avoid the crowds during those two peak months is to head to the mountains.
If you prefer skiing, you should visit Montenegro between January and March.
What to pack: Your patience, a dictionary, insect repellent, lots of sunscreen during the high season, your camera and don’t forget the drone if you have one. You can create some amazing aerials there.
How to move around: There are bus connections between most points of interest, but I chose to rent a car to roam freely and to be able to change plans and directions as I please. I chose to rent a car from Surprice Car Rentals.
As a solo traveller, you might prefer to be in a company and to take the public transport, or book a day trip excursion. However, I never actually felt alone and I love to have complete control over my journey.
MY DAY-BY-DAY ITINERARY + my failures to learn from
The pandemic made me really thirsty for more travel and discovery… Montenegro in less than 5 days?! No problem, I got you covered.
DAY 1.
Pick-up car
Tivat Airport – Budva
Distance: 20 km / 25 min
BUDVA
Best beaches: The Budva Riviera is famous for its beautiful beaches - Slovenska Plaza and Bečići, followed by Mogren Beach, which is easily accessible by following a seaside path from the old town. Jaz Beach is a lively cove and home to one of Montenegro’s most popular music festivals, the Sea Dance Festival.
You could also go by boat to St. Nicholas (Sveti Nikola) island and enjoy a beach day there.
Top attractions: Old Town, Budva City Walls, Citadel, Church of the Holy Trinity, Saint Ivan Church, Statue Ballerina, Podmaine Monastery, City Museum of Budva.
I chose to be based in Budva as I checked the distances and it’s crazy how close everything is.
I didn’t want to move my luggage every day so I stayed there. Budva has a beautiful old town, but if you want a relaxing holiday, less craziness and more parking possibilities, avoid booking accommodation in Budva. Every night was party night (not for me, lol). The music was way too loud and the first evening I had difficulties falling asleep.
My accommodation was located on a hill with a great view, 1 km from the city centre. I saw that the town is busy and finding free parking there could be a challenge, so I decided to walk down and take a taxi to go back after dinner.
BE CAREFUL with the taxis and the taxi drivers. Many of them are fake and could be very annoying. Look for Happy Taxi or Red Taxi.
I’ve been told that the cost to go back will be around 2 euro, however, I ended up paying 15 euro. This was not the worst part of the entire story though. I was in a taxi with a guy who was flirting with me even after I told him that my boyfriend is waiting for me at the hotel… He was asking me for my phone number, Facebook etc. and after I said no, he didn’t want to drive me further, took the money and left me walking uphill in the darkness. I didn’t discuss it, because I was a bit scared at that moment. I felt so embarrassed and bad… this happening already the first evening made me even more anxious and doubting how the rest of the holiday will be.
I had almost a sleepless night thanks to what happened and the crazy music in town, but I didn’t give up and woke up full of energy and desire to explore further.
DAY 2.
Budva – Pavlova Strana Viewpoint / Rjeka Crnojevica
Distance: 45 km / 50 min
The way from Budva to the viewpoint of Crnojevica river was scenic and pretty until I had to turn and drive on a one-car-possible-at-a-time unpaved road. I was hoping I won’t meet anyone. Luckily this road was quite abandoned and I had luck. I stopped a bit earlier than the ‘’official’’ viewpoint where there was a possibility to park and have this beauty undisturbed and all for myself. I also found the view better from there.
Tripod and drone ready… Go!
The Rijeka Crnojevića is a river in Montenegro, emerging just above and running through the eponymous town, close to the northeastern shores of Lake Skadar. Its length is 12.3km.
After I finished the shooting and admiring this view, I went to Virpazar to do a boat cruise on Skadar Lake and have lunch there.
Pavlova Strana Viewpoint – Virpazar Free Parking
Distance: 30 km / 55 min
Small roads, beautiful views and more solo trip struggles
SKADAR LAKE
The best way to enjoy and discover Skadar Lake and its surroundings is to do a boat cruise (private or shared), or if you are more active and you would like to discover it at your own pace choose kayaking. In both cases, swimming is an option. Keep in mind that there is a 4-euro entrance fee as the Montenegrin part of the lake is a National Park. This fee is not included in your boat tour or kayak rental.
I arrived in Virpazar and directly booked a private boat cruise with Vir Travel there. The duration of the tour I chose is 1 hour and the price - 25 euro. You can also do a 3-hours tour.
Those are some of the places you can see on the lake:
The island of Grmožuri is also called the “Alcatraz of Montenegro”, as in the past it was used as a prison for criminals. The prisoners were non-swimmers (prison break impossible).
Lesendro, known for its ruins of fortification; The Monastery Beška; Vranjina etc.
In this picture looks like I am living my best life and I did… until the massacre with the drone happened. Machines against humanity, Part 1.
Those little flying gadgets could be quite dangerous. The battery was dying and I wanted to land it on the boat, but the drone was detecting danger and was always flying back up… in order not to lose it in the water I jumped up and grabbed it when it was low enough for me to reach it and well… the rest is history.
I got cut at many places on my arm, but the shot is worth it, at least I hope so… This is the moment to give it a “Like” on Instagram if you haven’t yet.
More about Lake Skadar National Park:
• Two-thirds of the lake belongs to Montenegro, the rest belongs to Albania.
• Lake Skadar is Balkan’s largest lake and Europe’s biggest bird reserve. It is home to more than 270 bird species, some of which are endangered. It also has almost 50 fish species.
• Flora - mainly Mediterranean plants: marshes, water lilies, along the shore covered by bamboo. The Lake also contains medicinal plants and wild orchids.
After making new friends with the people owning the boat company, I headed back to the Adriatic Coast. Time to enjoy a bit of the 293km of unspoiled coastline and crystal-clear waters.
Virpazar – Petrovac
Distance: 25 km / 30 min
PETROVAC is a small scenic town on the Montenegro coast, located between Budva and Bar. Its 600 m long sandy beach attracts a lot of tourists each year. One of the tiny islets around Petrovac has a small cute church.
After turning and turning around and not finding any parking spot for ages, I gave up on Petrovac and headed back to Budva.
Petrovac – Budva
Distance: 18 km / 25 min
On the way back I spotted a beautiful view over the famous Sveti Stefan and those of you who follow me for a while on Instagram, already know that I had to stop and shoot there.
After I arrived in Budva, I went to Mogren Beach and finished the evening watching the beautiful sunset on the other side next to the port.
DAY 3.
Budva – Sveti Stefan
Distance: 9 km / 14 min
I parked the car at the Sveti Stefan parking. It costs 2 euros per hour.
About the most iconic location in Montenegro – SVETI STEFAN
You will see this place everywhere from postcards, magazine/newspaper articles, brochures to simply typing Montenegro on Google. It’s one of the most famous destinations in the country, but what many of you don’t know is that it is closed to the public.
It is an exclusive private resort accessible and visited mainly by the high-elite. The resort is called Aman and previously the ways to visit it were very limited and at the moment it’s almost impossible to set a foot on it.
One of them was to overnight there which could be quite pricey. Another way was to book a lunch/dinner at the restaurant and you would’ve been able to get on the island thanks to your reservation… Sometimes there were also organized tours with pre-booking, but this is not the case anymore. However now the only way to get in there and to note is by joining a liturgy in the church.
Aman is closed for the season, or maybe longer, this means that the restaurants were also closed and the only option was to visit a liturgy which I didn’t know until I’ve missed it and met a kind lady who went to the liturgy at 8 AM and gave me this tip.
I still asked the doorman if there is any other opportunity to get in there, but it’s truly impossible at least for the normal people. Sadly, the most iconic ‘’attraction’’ of the country is exclusive and inaccessible, or let’s say hardly accessible by the ‘’mortals’’.
Originally Sveti Stefan wasn’t connected to the mainland and was used as a fortress of defence housing 12 families. Later, it was transformed into a more traditional small village until in communist times the government decided to move the villagers to the mainland and to use the island for tourism purposes. They built the tombolo – the road which connects the island to the mainland.
Right next to Sveti Stefan, there are two beautiful beaches where I spent most of the day and enjoyed the scenery. They are open to the public and the water there is crystal-clear. If you get tired from swimming and laying on the beach you can walk through a small park which is located on the left side if are coming from to the sandy beach. From there new sceneries and perspectives are opening for those of you who like photography. Walking further will bring you to more beaches and other unique places.
After as usual, I went to Budva for sunset / before getting dark. If I weren’t alone I won’t do that, but as a solo female traveller I had the motto ‘’safety first’’. Ahh and surprise, this time I took a ‘’real’’ taxi and the price was 2,50 euro.
The evening finished by packing my suitcase, followed by watching fireworks over the town for a good night.
DAY 4.
Budva – Kotor
Distance: 23 km / 29 min
KOTOR
Shortly, Kotor is famous for its beautiful old town with its great amount of monuments of the medieval architecture, the 1355 stairs (8-euro entrance fee + great sauna/cardio effect during summer) to reach Kotor Fortress to enjoy some stunning views, and last but not least - the high population of cats. This is the shortest resume of a town ever, but I believe you should walk its narrow streets, experience the beauty, taste the culture, feel and hear about the history of this amazing town located in the Gulf of Kotor yourself.
A great starting point for a boat cruise and Bay of Kotor discovery. The parking is exactly in front of the small boat port and it’s 0,50 euro/hour.
By renting a boat you can explore the beaches and coves along the coast, swim in the mesmerizing waters and visit the small islands such as Mamula Island, Our Lady of the Rock, pass next by Saint George also known as the Island of the Dead, because of its tragic history. Btw, visiting Saint George Monastery/cemetery is prohibited, but many people sneak in. I won’t suggest doing it because of respect to all the tragedy that is connected with this place.
Other places you could reach by boat are Perast – a beautiful coastal town and the famous Blue Cave, which I didn’t go to see because it was part of a longer tour. You could also go to Perast by car if you wish.
I chose the private boat tour for 1,5 hours with Golden Wave - 60 euro.
This day was by far one of my favourite experiences and highlights in Montenegro.
After I finished the boat tour and roamed the town, absorbing the special atmosphere, cuddling with the cats of Kotor and recharging the batteries with some food, I headed to Porto Montenegro to drop off the car at a different drop-off location, and enjoy my last evening there.
Kotor – Porto Montenegro
Distance: 11 km / 17 min
Once I checked in at the hotel and took my time to refresh myself and have a drink at one of the fancy bars in Porto Montenegro I just walked around and soaked the last sunbeams before sunset.
DAY 5.
I spent the last few hours at the pool at the beautiful, iconic hotel Regent Porto Montenegro. The food at their restaurant before leaving was delicious. Go and try Murano Restaurant.
Porto Montenegro – Tivat Airport
Distance: 3,5 km / 8 min
Another tip and mistake to learn from…
Don’t go too early to the airport as they won’t let you in. Tivat Airport is too small and they don’t have the capacity to host many people inside. I ended up waiting outside for about an hour.
And more: I rented a mobile data router during the trip and had to give back the router before leaving with the belief that I will be able to use the Wi-fi at the airport. Let your hopes behind and be prepared that being connected at this airport is a mirage aka impossible both inside and outside. Their Wi-fi doesn’t work, so don’t plan any work, or calls from there, or be prepared with another Mobile Data plan.
Those are the thoughts, notes and memories I collected during my solo trip adventure in Montenegro. 5 days aren’t enough to do a quality exploration of the country, not even to cover all the best spots some of which I skipped such as Tara Canyon, Ostrog Monastery, Lovcen National Park etc. I will keep those places as an excuse to visit this stunning country with its lush greeneries, jaw-dropping views, countless islets and crystal-clear waters once again. This time I would love to share the experience with my usual partner in crime.