After a lifetime of dreaming and months of planning, my husband and I finally embarked on the honeymoon of our dreams to one of the most enchanting destinations on Earth: French Polynesia. This journey, a true labour of love, involved nearly 30 hours of travel, including a 3-day stop in Auckland, New Zealand. While many flights from Europe route through Los Angeles (with flight times of about 19-22 hours depending on connections), the adventure is absolutely worth every mile. Over three magical weeks, during which we also got a glimpse of New Zealand, we explored the breathtaking islands of Tahiti, Mo’orea, Raiatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora, and Rangiroa—a journey that fulfilled every expectation and more.
The Allure of French Polynesia
French Polynesia is a slice of heaven scattered across the South Pacific, offering a mesmerizing blend of pristine natural beauty, rich culture, and unparalleled hospitality. The locals, often called the kindest people in the world (for a reason!!!), welcome visitors with open hearts and radiant smiles. Every detail feels like it was designed to inspire awe: the turquoise lagoons, the vibrant marine life, and the dramatic volcanic peaks that rise from the islands.
Here, you can swim with gentle manta rays and eagle rays, marvel at humpback whales, and snorkel among dazzling coral reefs teeming with life. From kayaking in crystal-clear waters to exploring lush, flower-filled valleys, French Polynesia is perfect for water activities, adventure, or simply relaxing in the serenity of paradise.
For honeymooners, there’s no shortage of romance—think candlelit dinners on private beaches, lazy afternoons in overwater bungalows, and sunsets that set the sky ablaze.
GENERAL INFORMATION
French Polynesia, a land of stunning beauty and deep cultural heritage, traces its roots to the Polynesian navigators who settled these islands over a thousand years ago, bringing their rich traditions and wayfinding skills. In 1880, it became a French colony, and today, as an overseas collectivity of France, French Polynesia enjoys a unique blend of self-governance and cultural preservation while maintaining its ties to the French Republic.
Location: French Polynesia is located in the South Pacific Ocean. It consists of over 100 islands and atolls, with the most well-known being Tahiti, Bora Bora, and Mo’orea. French Polynesia is situated approximately halfway between South America and Australia, to the east of the International Date Line.
Size: French Polynesia covers an area of approximately 4,167 km² (or about 1,609 mi²). However, when considering the entire territory, which includes its vast exclusive economic zone (EEZ), the total area expands significantly to around 5 million km² (about 1.93 million mi²), making it one of the largest marine jurisdictions in the world.
Islands: French Polynesia is comprised of two main groups of islands: the Society Islands and the Tuamotu Archipelago, as well as several other island groups.
Society Islands: The Society Islands are the most well-known and include popular destinations like Tahiti, Bora Bora, and Mo’orea. These islands are characterized by lush vegetation, volcanic mountains, and a more developed tourism infrastructure. They are often considered the cultural and economic heart of French Polynesia.
Non-Society Islands: The term "non-Society islands" generally refers to the other island groups in French Polynesia, which include the Tuamotu Archipelago, Marquesas Islands, Gambier Islands, and others. These islands tend to be less developed, with smaller populations and fewer tourist facilities. The Tuamotu Archipelago, for example, consists mainly of atolls and is known for its exceptional diving spots, while the Marquesas Islands are more rugged and remote, offering unique cultural experiences.
Symbol: The symbol of French Polynesia is the tiare flower, specifically the Tiare Tahiti (Gardenia tahitensis), which is the national flower of the territory. The tiare flower is significant in Polynesian culture and is often used in traditional leis and for decoration. It symbolizes beauty, love, and hospitality. In addition to the Tiare flower, the flag of French Polynesia features red and white horizontal stripes with a central emblem representing a stylized outrigger canoe on the ocean, set against the sun. This emblem symbolizes the importance of the sea and navigation to the culture and history of the islands.
Capital: The capital of French Polynesia is Papeete, which is located on the island of Tahiti. Papeete serves as the political, economic, and cultural centre of the territory. It is the largest city in French Polynesia and is known for its vibrant markets, waterfront, and various cultural attractions. The city plays a crucial role in the administration of French Polynesia and is a hub for tourism and trade in the region.
Population: As of the latest estimates, the population of French Polynesia is approximately 280,000 people. The majority of the population resides on the main island of Tahiti, particularly in and around the capital city, Papeete. Other populated islands include Mo’orea, Bora Bora, and Raiatea, among others.
The population is diverse, with a mix of indigenous Polynesians and people of other ethnicities, including French and various other cultures. This diversity contributes to the rich cultural heritage of the region, which is reflected in the language, traditions, and customs.
Languages: In French Polynesia, there are several languages spoken, reflecting its rich cultural heritage. The primary languages are:
French: As an overseas collectivity of France, French is the official language of French Polynesia and is used in government, education, and media.
Tahitian: This is the most widely spoken indigenous language, particularly on the island of Tahiti and the Society Islands. It is part of the Polynesian language family and holds significant cultural importance.
Other Polynesian Languages: In addition to Tahitian, there are several other Polynesian languages spoken on various islands, such as Marquesan (in the Marquesas Islands), Rarotongan (in the Austral Islands), and others.
French Polynesia Dictionary:
Basic Greetings
Ia ora na! – Hello! / Good morning!
Manava! – Hello! / Welcome! – deeper sense
Maeva! – Welcome!
Mauruuru! – Thank you!
Nana! – Goodbye!
Common Phrases
Manuia! – Cheers! (To your health)
O vai oe? – How are you?
E haere ana au i te... – I am going to the...
No te aha? – Why?
Numbers
Tahi – One
Piti – Two
Toru – Three
Mahana – Four
Rima – Five
Food and Drink
'Utu – Price / Cost- Mahi mahi – A popular fish (also used informally for cheers)
Coco – Coconut
Poisson – Fish
Fafa – Greens (often refers to taro leaves)
Nature and Geography
Motu – Islet
Lagoon – Lagoon
Vai – Water
Fenua – Land / Island
Cultural Terms
Tiare – Flower (specifically the Tahitian gardenia)
Hula – Traditional dance
Tamure – A lively dance style
Fare – House / Home
Useful Travel Terms
Aita – No / Not
Eee – Yes
Fa'aitoito – Good luck / Be strong
Pupu – Shellfish / Snails (also can refer to an informal term for children)
Directions
I te mau – To the right
I te pooti – To the left
Aroha mai – Excuse me / Sorry
Other Important Words
To'ata – Local market
Vaka – Canoe / Boat
Tama – Child / Son / Boy
Vahine – Woman / Wife
Currency: The currency used in French Polynesia is the CFP franc (XPF), which stands for "franc Pacifique." The CFP franc is also used in other French overseas territories in the Pacific, such as New Caledonia and Wallis and Futuna.
When travelling to French Polynesia, it's important to note that while some establishments may accept euros or credit cards, cash in CFP francs is typically preferred, especially in smaller shops and markets.
For reference: 1 XPF = 0.0084 EUR ; 1 XPF = 0.0088 USD
Economy: The economy of French Polynesia is diverse but largely dependent on tourism, agriculture, and fishing. Here’s a brief overview of the key sectors:
Tourism is the backbone of the economy, contributing significantly to employment and GDP. French Polynesia is renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, luxurious resorts, and vibrant culture, attracting visitors from around the world, particularly for honeymooning and exotic vacations.
Agriculture plays a vital role in the local economy, with products such as vanilla, copra (dried coconut flesh), and tropical fruits (like pineapples and bananas) being cultivated. The production of black pearls, particularly in the Tuamotu Archipelago, is also significant and contributes to the agricultural sector.
Fishing, especially tuna fishing, is another important economic activity. The waters surrounding French Polynesia are rich in marine life, and both commercial and artisanal fishing are practiced. The fishing industry also supports local consumption and exports.
The public sector is a major employer due to the presence of various governmental and administrative functions, as well as public services provided to the population.
Imports and Exports: French Polynesia imports a substantial amount of goods, including food, fuel, and manufactured products, given that many resources are not produced locally. Exports are primarily focused on agricultural products and fish.
Economic Challenges: Despite its natural beauty and resources, the economy faces challenges such as reliance on tourism (which can be affected by global economic conditions), high costs of living, and limited local production capabilities. Additionally, the territory is geographically isolated, which can complicate trade and transportation.
Best time to visit: The best time to visit French Polynesia generally depends on the activities you want to experience.
Weather Considerations
Dry Season (May to October): This is considered the best time to visit, as the weather is generally dry and cooler, with less humidity and pleasant temperatures ranging from 23°C to 30°C (73°F to 86°F). This period is ideal for outdoor activities, including hiking, snorkelling, and diving.
Wet Season (November to April): This season is warmer and more humid, with occasional rain showers and tropical storms. While it can still be a good time to visit for lower prices and fewer crowds, some outdoor activities might be limited due to weather conditions.
Whale Watching
Whale Watching Season (July to October): If you're interested in whale watching, the best time to visit is during the Southern Hemisphere winter, from July to October. During this time, humpback whales migrate to the warm waters of French Polynesia to breed and give birth. Popular areas for whale watching include Moorea and the waters around Tahiti.
Other Activities
Diving and Snorkelling: The dry season (May to October) offers the best visibility for diving and snorkelling, though these activities can be enjoyed year-round, particularly in sheltered lagoons.
Surfing: If you're a surfer, the best waves typically occur during the southern hemisphere winter (May to August), especially on the north shores of the islands.
In summary, the ideal time to visit French Polynesia for a combination of good weather, whale watching, and outdoor activities is from July to October. During this period, you can enjoy the best of both worlds: the stunning natural beauty of the islands and the opportunity to see humpback whales in their natural habitat.
However, if you prefer to avoid crowds and do not mind occasional rain, consider visiting during the shoulder months of May and November.
What to pack:
Clothing
Lightweight, Breathable Clothing: Pack light, breathable fabrics like cotton or linen to stay comfortable in the warm, humid climate.
Swimwear: Bring multiple swimsuits for beach days, snorkelling, and swimming.
Cover-ups: Lightweight cover-ups are useful for transitioning from the beach to restaurants or shops.
Light Jacket or Sweater: Evenings can be cooler, especially during the dry season, so a light jacket or sweater is advisable.
Activewear: If you plan on hiking or doing any outdoor activities, pack appropriate activewear and moisture-wicking clothes.
Sun Protection Clothing: Consider long-sleeved shirts and pants for sun protection, especially if you're sensitive to the sun.
Footwear
Flip-flops or Sandals: Comfortable sandals are great for the beach and casual outings.
Water Shoes: If you plan to go snorkelling or explore rocky areas, water shoes can protect your feet.
Hiking Shoes: If you intend to hike, bring sturdy, comfortable hiking shoes or sneakers.
Accessories
Sunglasses: A good pair of polarized sunglasses will protect your eyes from the sun's glare.
Wide-Brimmed Hat: A hat provides additional sun protection and helps keep you cool.
Sunscreen: Bring reef-safe sunscreen to protect your skin and the marine environment.
Insect Repellent: Mosquitoes are very present in areas where there is more vegetation, especially during the wetter months, so insect repellent is a must, even though it didn’t help me a lot.
Lightweight Backpack or Beach Bag: Useful for carrying your essentials during day trips.
Toiletries
Personal Hygiene Products: Bring travel-sized toiletries, including shampoo, conditioner, and body wash.
Medication: If you take any prescription medications, ensure you have enough for your trip, along with a basic first-aid kit.
After-Sun Lotion: Consider bringing aloe vera or after-sun lotion for soothing sunburn.
Electronics
Camera or Smartphone: Capture the breathtaking scenery and memories.
Chargers and Adapters: Bring chargers for your devices and any necessary plug adapters; French Polynesia uses type C and E outlets.
Waterproof Phone Case or Camera: If you plan to engage in water activities, a waterproof case can protect your devices.
Travel Essentials
Travel Documents: Bring your passport, travel insurance, and any necessary reservation confirmations.
Cash and Credit Cards: While credit cards are accepted in many places, carrying some cash in CFP francs is advisable for smaller purchases.
Snorkelling Gear: If you have your own gear, you can bring it, but many resorts and tour operators offer rentals.
Local food: Staple ingredients in Chile include fish and seafood (tuna, mahi mahi, octopus, and other shellfish); tropical fruits (coconut, pineapple, mango, bananas); starchy vegetables (taro, breadfruit, sweet potatoes); vegetables (tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, cucumber); herbs and spices (cilantro, garlic, ginger, vanilla); grains and legumes (rice, dried beans); condiments and seasonings (lime juice, coconut milk, salt, pepper).
Unfortunately, French Polynesia is not the most vegan-friendly place in the world, but I’ve always found some options. Do well your research on where to eat if you are plant-based. However, here I will mention the typical foods not considering my preferences.Some typical foods and drinks from French Polynesia include:
Poisson Cru: This is perhaps the most famous dish of French Polynesia, consisting of raw fish (often tuna) marinated in lime juice and mixed with coconut milk, diced vegetables (like tomatoes and cucumbers), and sometimes herbs. It's a refreshing and flavourful dish often served as an appetizer.
Poke: Similar to poisson cru, poke is a Hawaiian dish that has also become popular in French Polynesia. It features diced raw fish (often tuna or octopus) seasoned with various ingredients, including soy sauce, sesame oil, and scallions.
Roulottes: These are food trucks commonly found in Papeete and other towns. They offer a variety of local and international dishes at affordable prices. You can find everything from grilled meats and seafood to crepes and Asian-inspired dishes.
Fafaru: A traditional dish made with raw fish marinated in fermented seawater and mixed with various spices. It's an acquired taste but offers a unique glimpse into the local culinary traditions.
Mahi Mahi: This local fish is often grilled or prepared in various ways. It's known for its mild flavour and is a popular choice in many restaurants.
Taro and Breadfruit: These starchy vegetables are staples in Polynesian cuisine. Taro is often made into a creamy taro puree, while breadfruit can be roasted, boiled, or made into chips.
Coconut Bread: A sweet bread made with coconut milk and shredded coconut, often enjoyed as a snack or dessert.
Vanilla Products: French Polynesia is known for its high-quality vanilla. You can find vanilla in various forms, including vanilla extract, beans, and vanilla-infused desserts.
Desserts: Traditional desserts often feature tropical fruits like mango, pineapple, and coconut. Look for desserts like coconut pudding or tropical fruit salads.
Drinks:
Hinano Beer: A popular local beer brewed in Tahiti.
Tahitian Fruit Juices: Freshly squeezed juices from local fruits like pineapple, passion fruit, and coconut are widely available.
Coconut Water: Fresh coconut water is a refreshing drink, especially in the heat.
Drones: In French Polynesia, the use of drones is allowed. However, specific rules must be followed to ensure safety and compliance with local laws. Here are some key points regarding drone usage in French Polynesia:
Registration: Drones weighing more than 800 grams (approximately 1.76 pounds) must be registered with the appropriate authorities.
Pilot Licensing: Depending on the type and weight of the drone, operators may need to obtain a pilot's license or a specific certificate for commercial use.
No-Fly Zones: Certain areas are restricted for drone use, including near airports, military sites, and protected natural areas. It is essential to check local regulations to determine where flying is permitted.
Altitude Limits: Drones typically have altitude restrictions, commonly not exceeding 120 meters (about 400 feet) above ground level.
Insurance: Drone operators are often required to have liability insurance to cover any potential damages or accidents.
Respect for Privacy: Operators must respect the privacy of individuals and avoid flying over private properties without permission.
IMPORTANT BEFORE TAKING OFF:
Check Local Laws: Before flying a drone, check the latest local regulations and guidelines, as they may change.
Respect Nature: Given the delicate ecosystems in French Polynesia, it's important to fly drones responsibly, especially near wildlife and natural reserves.
Seek Permission: If you plan to fly in specific areas or for commercial purposes, it’s advisable to seek permission from local authorities.
Stay connected: To stay connected in French Polynesia, purchasing a local SIM card is a popular option for tourists. The main mobile providers are Opt and Vini. Both Opt and Vini generally provide good coverage in urban areas and popular tourist destinations. However, coverage may be limited in more remote or less populated areas.
Where to Buy SIM Cards:
At the Airport: You can usually find kiosks or shops selling SIM cards upon arrival at Tahiti’s Faa'a International Airport. This is one of the most convenient places to purchase a SIM card as soon as you land.
Local Shops: Many convenience stores, supermarkets, and dedicated mobile phone shops in towns and cities (such as Papeete) sell SIM cards.
Requirements for entering French Polynesia: As of my last update, here are the general requirements for entering French Polynesia. However, please note that regulations may change, especially in response to health guidelines, so it's important to check for the most current information before your trip.
Passport
Validity: Your passport should be valid for at least six months beyond your planned departure date from French Polynesia.
Visa Requirements
Tourist Visa: Citizens of many countries, including the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, and Schengen Area countries, can enter French Polynesia for tourism purposes without a visa for stays of up to 90 days. Check with your local consulate or the French Polynesia government website for specific visa requirements based on your nationality.
Return or Onward Ticket
You may be required to show proof of a return or onward ticket when entering French Polynesia.
Health and Vaccination Requirements
Routine Vaccinations: Ensure that routine vaccinations are up to date, including those for hepatitis A and B, typhoid, and tetanus, as recommended by health authorities.
Customs Regulations
Be mindful of customs regulations regarding the importation of certain goods, including food, plants, and animals. There may be restrictions on bringing agricultural products into French Polynesia.
Travel Insurance
While not a formal entry requirement, it is highly advisable to have travel insurance that covers medical emergencies, trip cancellations, and other unforeseen events.
Before travelling to French Polynesia, it's crucial to verify these requirements closer to your departure date to account for any changes in regulations or health guidelines. Checking with the nearest French consulate or the official government website for French Polynesia will provide the most accurate and updated information.
Here’s a list of useful things to know about French Polynesia:
Everything is Closed on Sundays: Most shops, restaurants, and services are closed on Sundays, so plan accordingly.
Not All Islands Have ATMs: While major islands like Tahiti and Bora Bora have ATMs, many smaller islands may not. Plan ahead for cash needs. We personally did not have any issues with this, but it’s good to know.
Cash is Important: While some places accept credit cards, it's advisable to have cash on hand, especially in smaller towns and for local markets.
Tipping is Not Required: Tipping is not customary in French Polynesia, but it is appreciated.
Limited Public Transportation: Public transport options can be limited, especially on the outer islands. Renting a car or taking a taxi can be more convenient.
Tap Water Quality: In most areas, tap water is safe to drink, but it’s always good to check locally, especially on smaller islands.
Embrace the Slow Pace: Life in French Polynesia is generally laid-back, so be prepared for a slower pace and a more relaxed approach to time.
Limited Internet Connectivity: Wi-Fi can be spotty, especially on outer islands. Don’t rely on it for important communications and consider purchasing a local SIM card if you need connectivity.
Local Time Zone: French Polynesia has several time zones, and some islands may be ahead or behind Tahiti. Always check the local time when travelling between islands.
Limited Nightlife Options: Outside of major tourist hubs, nightlife can be very limited. Most places close early, so plan your evenings accordingly.
Hiking Opportunities: Many islands have beautiful hiking trails, but they may not be well-marked or maintained. Always check local advice before heading out.
Limited Shopping Options: Shopping for souvenirs can be limited outside of major tourist areas. Plan to buy unique items when you’re in larger towns.
Local Festivals: Check the local calendar for festivals, as they can offer a unique glimpse into Polynesian culture, with music, dance, and traditional food.
Coconut Trees Everywhere: If you’re travelling on foot, be cautious of falling coconuts, especially in areas with lots of palm trees!
HOW TO GET AROUND
Here’s an overview of our transportation choices during our trip:
INTER-ISLAND FLIGHTS
One of the best ways to explore the islands is by taking advantage of Air Tahiti, the primary domestic airline serving the region. In French Polynesia, for domestic flights, at the airports, there are no security checks to pass. This means you don’t need to arrive too much in advance. You just go to the airport, head to the gate, and you’re ready to fly. It’s straightforward and convenient!
They offer a variety of packages that can significantly reduce your flight costs, allowing you to hop between islands without breaking the bank. These packages often include round-trip flights to multiple destinations, making it easier and more economical to visit several islands in one trip. For example, we flew from Mo’orea to Raiatea, Raiatea to Bora Bora, Bora Bora to Rangiroa, and Rangiroa to Tahiti —all for a fraction of the price we would have paid for individual tickets.
For those looking to streamline their travel plans, Air Tahiti’s Multi-island passes are especially appealing. These passes allow you to fly to multiple islands over a certain period, giving you the freedom to explore at your own pace while saving money. Be sure to check their website for the latest deals and packages, which can be found here.
CAR RENTAL, FERRY AND BOAT TOURS
We rented a car from AVIS Tahiti for the duration of our stay in Tahiti and Mo’orea, which provided us with the flexibility to explore the beauty of these islands at our own pace. We also took the ferry to Mo’orea with the car, allowing us to conveniently access different attractions on the island and explore two nearby islands with the same vehicle. We opted for a 4x4 Suzuki Jimny, even though a 4WD is not necessary for most of the popular tourist spots.
Instagram: @avistahiti
Book here: AVIS TAHITI
Tahiti and Mo'orea
We used the Aremiti ferry to travel from Tahiti to Mo’orea. It’s important to note that this ferry does not have space for many cars, so it is essential to book your spot well in advance, especially during peak travel seasons.
Purchase your tickets here: Ticketing – SNC Aremiti
During our time in Mo’orea, we took advantage of our rental car to explore the island at our own pace. Additionally, we embarked on two unforgettable boat tours, which allowed us to experience the crystal-clear waters and vibrant marine life surrounding the island. I’ll dive deeper into those tours later in the blog post.
After spending time in Mo’orea, we left the car there and flew to our next destinations, which allowed us to continue our adventure without the hassle of returning the vehicle to Tahiti. Flight to Raiatea.
Raiatea
While on Raiatea, we also rented a car from a local company. I recommend booking well in advance because we had to change cars on the second day due to a lack of vehicle availability. That said, if you’re looking for alternative transportation on the island, renting a scooter is a great option and quite popular among visitors. Scooters provide an easy way to navigate the island’s scenic roads and can be a fun way to experience the local atmosphere.
Taha’a
From Raiatea, we went on a day boat tour to Taha’a. This excursion allowed us to explore the beautiful landscapes and unique culture of Taha’a, known for its vanilla plantations and stunning lagoon views.
Bora Bora
We travelled to Bora Bora by plane. We stayed at the Four Seasons Bora Bora and Conrad Bora Bora Nui, both of which provide convenient boat transfers from the airport to their properties, enhancing the overall resort experience.
Rangiroa
Our journey continued as we flew to Rangiroa, the second-largest atoll in the world, known for its stunning coral reefs and rich marine life. Upon arrival, we took a taxi to our accommodation. The island is relatively flat, making it easy to navigate on foot. While it is common for visitors to rent bikes on Rangiroa, we chose to walk instead, as there were many dogs on the island, and biking increased the likelihood of being barked at. Fortunately, our accommodation was conveniently located within walking distance of most points of interest.
During our stay, we also enjoyed a day boat tour, which turned out to be the highlight of our visit, offering unforgettable experiences in the breathtaking waters of Rangiroa.
Other transportation options:
In addition to planes, ferries, boats, car and scooter rentals, there are other ways to get around the islands:
Bicycles: Some islands have bicycle rental services, allowing you to explore at a leisurely pace.
Public Transport: Limited public transportation options may be available on larger islands like Tahiti, but these services are less common on smaller islands.
DAY BY DAY ITINERARY
Our three-week adventure including the days spent in New Zealand took us across some of the most mesmerizing islands in the South Pacific. We began our journey in Tahiti, the largest island, known for its lush landscapes and vibrant markets. From there, we hopped to the picturesque islands of Mo’orea, Raiatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora, and Rangiroa, each island more stunning than the last. Well, I’m not gonna lie Mo’orea won our hearts, followed by the ultimate luxury delight of Bora Bora.
DAY 1.
ARRIVAL IN TAHITI
We landed at Faa’a International Airport in Papeete, Tahiti, at 2:40 am, and despite the early hour, the warm Polynesian spirit was already in full swing. Traditional music and dancers greeted us at the airport, setting the tone for the enchanting days ahead. This warm welcome truly set the vacation spirit for us, enveloping us in the island's aloha vibe—though “aloha” is more commonly associated with Hawaii, the spirit of welcome and friendliness resonates throughout French Polynesia as well.
TAHITI
Tahiti is often regarded as the heart and soul of French Polynesia. As the largest island in the archipelago, Tahiti spans approximately 1,045 km² (about 404 mi²) and is home to around 190,000 residents, making it the most populated island in the region. The capital city, Papeete, is a vibrant urban centre that serves as both the political and economic hub of French Polynesia.
Tahiti is known for its stunning natural beauty, featuring dramatic volcanic mountains, lush rainforests, and pristine beaches. The island's landscape is dominated by the impressive peaks of the Tahiti Nui and Tahiti Iti, which offer breathtaking views and a variety of hiking trails for outdoor enthusiasts. The turquoise waters surrounding the island are ideal for snorkelling and diving, where visitors can explore vibrant coral reefs and encounter diverse marine life.
Culturally rich, Tahiti is a melting pot of traditions and influences. The island is known for its lively markets, where you can find fresh local produce, handcrafted souvenirs, and traditional Polynesian crafts. Papeete's waterfront is bustling with activity, featuring restaurants, bars, and shops that reflect the island's vibrant spirit.
While Tahiti can be busier than some of the other islands, its blend of modern amenities and rich cultural heritage makes it a fascinating destination. For us, it serves as the perfect gateway to the beauty and culture of French Polynesia, making it an essential part of our journey through this tropical paradise.
WHERE TO STAY
TAHITI AIRPORT MOTEL – good only for late arrivals and early departures
Our first stop was the Tahiti Airport Motel, conveniently located within walking distance from the airport. The motel is simple and functional, perfect for a short stay when arriving late or leaving early. It’s budget-friendly, but not a place for a luxurious night—strictly convenience over comfort.
If you don’t have much luggage, I highly recommend walking to the motel, as taxis tend to charge excessively for such a short distance. Keep in mind that the walk does include an uphill segment, which is manageable but could be a bit challenging depending on your fitness level and the weight of your bags.
I wouldn’t recommend this place for a pleasant stay, but it serves well for late arrivals and early departures, given its proximity to the airport. The price also offers great value for money.
After a quick rest of about 3-4 hours, we picked up our car from AVIS Tahiti, located at the airport.
MARCHÉ DE PAPEETE
Our day began in the vibrant city of Papeete, where we first visited the lovely Marché de Papeete. Here, visitors can find a variety of local products, including fresh fruits, vegetables, fish, handicrafts, and traditional Tahitian goods. The market is a great place to experience the local culture, sample traditional foods, and shop for souvenirs. It is a must-visit spot for anyone travelling to Papeete.
During our visit, kind local women greeted us, crafting beautiful flower crowns and straw bags. Each of us received a fragrant white gardenia, symbolizing our relationship status—worn behind the left ear for those taken and the right for the single.
Next, we ventured into the world of Tahiti's renowned black pearls. We carefully selected some unique treasures from the market, but we later bought more during a pearl farm visit on a boat tour from Raiatea to Taha’a (more about that later). At the market, you could either buy jewellery with a pearl or choose individual pearls based on quality, with prices varying accordingly. While the market offers cheaper pearls at fair prices, the best quality pearls we acquired during this trip were purchased later. French Polynesia accounts for an impressive 95% of the global production of black pearls, making it a significant player in this market. While nurturing a white pearl takes only 5 to 6 months, black pearls require a patient wait of 18 to 24 months to reach perfection.
FA’ARUMA’I WATERFALLS
With our car ready, we set out to explore Tahiti’s natural beauty. Our first stop was Fa’aruma’i Waterfalls, a breathtaking series of cascades surrounded by lush greenery. The tranquil sound of rushing water sets the perfect backdrop for an early morning adventure.
WATER GARDENS OF VAIPAHI
Next, we visited the Water Gardens of Vaipahi, a serene oasis filled with tropical plants, lotus flowers, and peaceful walking trails. It was the perfect spot to immerse ourselves in the island’s natural tranquillity.
GROTTES DE MARAA
The Grottes de Maraa, a network of mystical lava caves with clear pools of water, were next on our itinerary. The cool atmosphere inside the caves was a refreshing escape from the warm island air.
TAHARU’U BLACK SAND BEACH
For a touch of contrast, we drove to Taharu’u Black Sand Beach, a striking and dramatic shoreline with dark volcanic sand and powerful waves. Watching the surfers here was mesmerizing, and the rugged beauty of the beach was unforgettable.
As the day came to an end, we caught our first Tahitian sunset somewhere along the road back to Papeete. The sky transformed into a canvas of fiery orange and pink hues, mirrored beautifully on the water. It was the perfect ending to a day that introduced us to the magic of French Polynesia and left us excited for the adventures ahead.
Other points of interest: Tahiti Pearl Museum; Blowhole at Pointe Vénus; Museum of Tahiti and the Islands; Bougainville Park; Teahupo'o surf spot; Marae Arahurahu - ancient Polynesian temple ruins; Arahurahu Marae.
More waterfalls to explore on the island: Fautaua Waterfall; Hira'o Waterfall; Vaipoiri Waterfall; Mara'iri Waterfall; Tiarei Waterfall.
We had a brief stop on Tahiti during our travels but would love to explore more of this beautiful island next time. There’s so much rich culture, stunning scenery, and adventure waiting to be discovered!
DAY 2.
TAHITI - MO’OREA – approx. 17 km (10.5 mi) / ferry duration 30 – 45 min
Several ferry companies (Aremiti, Terevau and Moorea Ferries) operate between Tahiti and Mo'orea, providing multiple departures daily.
When travelling between Tahiti and Mo'orea, we took the Aremiti ferry bringing our car rental from AVIS Tahiti. It's important to note that, regardless of the ferry company, you must book your car spot in advance, as space for vehicles on the ferry is limited. This applies to all operators, ensuring that you can travel with your vehicle without any issues and allowing you to explore Mo'orea at your own pace once you arrive.
The ferry ride typically takes around 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the specific ferry service and sea conditions. Several ferry operators provide regular services between Papeete (the capital of Tahiti) and Vaiare (the main port of Mo'orea), making it a convenient and scenic way to travel between the two islands.
MO’OREA
Our favourite island in French Polynesia, known for its breathtaking landscapes and vibrant culture. Mo’orea, with its breathtaking eight mountain peaks, is not just a feast for the eyes; it also served as inspiration for the beloved Disney film Moana. This stunning island, often referred to as the "Sister Island" of Tahiti, is a paradise characterized by lush landscapes, vibrant coral reefs, and a rich cultural heritage that draws travellers from around the globe.
Located just a short ferry ride from Tahiti, this stunning island spans approximately 132 km² (about 51 mi²) and is home to around 17,000 residents. The main town, Maharepa, is a charming hub that offers a mix of local life and tourist amenities.
Mo'orea is often celebrated for its dramatic scenery, characterized by towering volcanic peaks, lush valleys, and stunning lagoons.
The island's iconic landscape features the majestic Mount Rotui and the picturesque Opunohu and Cook's Bays, making it a paradise for nature lovers and photographers alike. The island is also steeped in culture, with opportunities to experience traditional Polynesian life. You can visit local vanilla and pineapple plantations, attend cultural performances, or explore ancient marae (sacred sites) that reflect the island's rich history.
While Mo'orea attracts visitors seeking adventure and relaxation, it also maintains a laid-back vibe, allowing for a more intimate experience compared to some of the busier islands. Its natural beauty, combined with the warmth of its people, makes Mo'orea a truly magical destination. For us, it’s not just about the stunning views; it’s the overall experience that made us dream of coming back to this beloved island.
WHERE TO STAY
FENUA MATA’I’OA
We chose to stay at Fenua Mata’i’oa, located on the north shore of Moorea, and it was an excellent decision. The property sits right by a stunning lagoon, providing beautiful views and a tranquil atmosphere.
Every evening, we were treated to mesmerizing sunsets and blacktip reef sharks swimming in the lagoon as the sun dipped below the horizon.
The bungalows are designed in a charming, traditional Polynesian style and are surrounded by lush greenery. This cosy atmosphere, combined with the property’s prime location on the north shore, made our stay feel truly special, allowing us to relax and fully enjoy the beauty of Moorea.
Book here: FENUA MATA'I'OA
TO’ATEA VIEWPOINT
We arrived in Mo’orea in the morning, greeted by the island’s enchanting beauty. Our first stop was the To’atea scenic viewpoint, which offers a stunning overlook of Temae Beach and the luxurious Sofitel Kia Ora Moorea Beach Resort. From this vantage point, we were treated to breathtaking views of the turquoise lagoon framed by the majestic peaks that define the island’s skyline.
TEMAE BEACH
After soaking in the sights, we headed to the public beach of Temae, located just about 3 km from the ferry terminal and a short distance from Mo’orea Airport. This idyllic beach, nestled between a coconut plantation and the shimmering lagoon, is perfect for a relaxing day by the water. With plenty of space for sunbathing and easy parking, it’s an ideal spot for families and friends alike. The beach is equipped with public showers and conveniences, as well as a small beach soccer pitch, making it a well-rounded destination for fun and relaxation.
At Temae Beach, we kicked off our day by enjoying the calm morning atmosphere. The corals here are vibrant and teeming with marine life, making it a snorkeler’s paradise. We spent some time tanning and exploring the underwater world, revelling in the tranquillity of our surroundings.
OPONOHU BAY + COOK BAY
Continuing our exploration of the north shore, we visited the two symmetrical bays—Opunohu Bay and Cook’s Bay. Both offered stunning vistas and unique experiences that showcased the island's natural beauty.
Opunohu Bay is a touch more lively yet still retains a peaceful vibe. The incredible views of Mount Tohivea and Mount Rotui made this spot truly special. As we enjoyed the crystal-clear waters, we were happy to find that it seemed like a haven for sea turtles. Conveniently, there are restrooms located just across the road, making our visit all the more comfortable.
MORE: As we drove around Mo’orea, we made several stops to capture the picturesque scenery, including the famous Instagram-worthy laying palm tree. As the day came to a close, we found a perfect spot to greet the sunset, which painted the sky with stunning hues of orange and pink, creating a magical end to our first day on the island.
To cap off our day, we treated ourselves to an unexpected culinary delight at Casa Vincenzo, an Italian restaurant that surpassed all our expectations. We never imagined we’d find such amazing pizza in French Polynesia! The authentic Italian pizzas, crafted by skilled chefs, were simply mouth-watering. I highly recommend making a reservation in advance, as the restaurant tends to fill up quickly with diners eager to enjoy its delicious offerings.
DAY 3.
MO’OREA
COL DES TROIS PINUS / aka THREE PINES LOOKOUT
Our third day in heaven began on an exhilarating note with a hike to Col des Trois Pinus, a generally moderate trail that typically takes about an hour to complete. However, we found it to be quite easy and finished the hike in just 30 minutes. The path is well-marked and leads you through lush greenery, offering a delightful experience as you ascend.
Upon reaching the summit, we were rewarded with breathtaking views that included the majestic Mount Rotui to the north, the stunning Opunohu Bay sparkling below, and the iconic silhouette of Mount Moorea dominating the horizon. The vibrant blues of the ocean contrasted beautifully with the lush greens of the island, creating a picturesque scene that was well worth the effort.
At the top, we discovered a charming swing nestled between towering pine trees, which provided a fun opportunity to swing out over the lush landscape and take in the beauty all around us. Just a note: be sure to bring some mosquito repellent, as those little critters can be quite persistent in this tropical paradise!
COL DES TROIS COCOTIERS / aka THREE COCONUT LOOKOUT
While we thoroughly enjoyed the hike to Col des Trois Pinus, we also considered the nearby Col des Trois Cocotiers. This hike is slightly longer, taking about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete and is also considered a moderate route. From the top of this trail, hikers can enjoy sweeping views of the island's coastline, lush valleys, and even glimpses of the neighbouring islands on a clear day. However, if it has rained recently, be cautious as the trail can become slippery.
LAGOON SNORKELING TOUR
After our early morning hike, we indulged in a hearty breakfast, fuelling up for the next exciting part of our day. Shortly after, we were headed to and were picked up from Opunahu Bay for a lagoon snorkelling tour with Voila Moorea. The day turned out to be an absolute delight as we boarded a lovely catamaran equipped with comfortable seating and two relaxing lounges.
The crew was fantastic, brimming with energy and enthusiasm, making our experience even more enjoyable. We were thrilled to encounter friendly stingrays that glided through the water, and we had the chance to be surrounded by a lot of friendly blacktip reef sharks.
After the trip, we returned to our hotel, Fenua Mata’i’oa, just in time to witness a lovely sunset. To add to the beautiful end of the day we cuddled with an adorable kitty who was always lounging in front of our door. With its soft purring and gentle nuzzles this sweet little furball made our stay even more delightful, reminding us that paradise is even better with a cat by your side! How we missed our princess Thea...
DAY 4.
MO’OREA
WHALE WATCHING / SWIMMING WITH WHALES TOUR
This day began with an early wake-up call as we prepared for an exciting adventure: whale watching and swimming with Humpback whales if we were lucky! We booked our tour with Moorea Moana Tours, opting for the first possible tour of the day at 6:30 am.
The prime whale-watching season in French Polynesia typically runs from July to October, when these magnificent creatures visit the warm waters to breed and give birth. During their stay, the whales do not eat but instead rest near the reefs, conserving energy for their long journey back to colder feeding grounds in places like Antarctica.
These whales are known for their fascinating behaviours during this period. Males often engage in elaborate courtship displays, including singing to attract females. Listening to a male whale singing was one of the most surreal experiences; the vibrations resonated through the water, creating an awe-inspiring atmosphere that made our skin tingle. It was truly majestic and beautiful.
However, it’s important to note that the ferries travelling between Tahiti and Mo’orea sometimes pose a danger to these gentle giants, as they rest close to the water's surface. This unfortunate reality emphasizes the need for awareness and respect for their habitat.
During our tour, we were fortunate to spot three whales. We were allowed to enter the water only once, as the whales decide their level of interaction. They can choose to be playful or prefer to rest undisturbed. In French Polynesia, strict regulations are in place to protect these magnificent creatures. Boats must maintain a safe distance, usually at least 100 to 200 meters, and swimming with whales is only permitted when they are comfortable. Our guide was vigilant in observing their behaviour, informing us when it was appropriate to enter the water. This respectful approach is crucial for preserving the whales' natural environment.
French Polynesia is one of the last territories where swimming with whales is still allowed, alongside countries like Tonga and the Dominican Republic. The importance of adhering to regulations and respecting these animals cannot be overstated, as they are vital to the marine ecosystem.
After our incredible whale-watching encounter, we ventured further searching for whales toward Tahiti, where the ocean became rougher. Unfortunately, I succumbed to seasickness and had to deal with some nausea. For anyone prone to seasickness, I highly recommend bringing seasickness pills to ensure a more comfortable experience.
ROUTE DES ANANAS / THE PINEAPPLE TRAIL
After the amazing whale-watching tour and a bit of seasickness, we took a moment to refresh before resuming our exploration of the island. Our next destination was Route des Ananas, and let me tell you, driving around Mo’orea is like stepping into a real-life Jurassic Park scene. The towering mountain peaks, dense forests, and vibrant greenery evoke a sense of ancient wonder, reminiscent of the iconic landscapes featured in the films. It’s easy to imagine dinosaurs roaming these lush hills, though thankfully, we only encountered friendly locals and stunning flora and fauna.
Route des Ananas is a renowned scenic drive that leads you through the heart of Mo’orea’s pineapple plantations. To reach this picturesque route, there are several options. Many visitors choose guided ATV tours, which provide a fun way to explore the terrain. A quirky detail about these tours is the helmets worn by the ATV drivers—they often resemble the vibrant upper part of a rooster, complete with the characteristic shape and colourful design. It’s a humorous touch that adds to the fun of the adventure!
As a brief aside, chickens are a common sight in French Polynesia, thriving in the absence of natural predators. Introduced by early settlers, these birds have multiplied over the years and now roam freely, adding a lively charm to the island atmosphere. You can find them strutting about on the streets, along the roads, and even in the mountains—a delightful reminder of the laid-back, rural lifestyle that characterizes these beautiful islands.
Back to our journey… we preferred the freedom of going at our own pace, so we hopped into our rugged 4x4 Suzuki Jimny. This choice allowed us to stop whenever we wanted to take in the stunning views and snap photos of the stunning landscapes enveloping us.
As we cruised along, the landscape gradually transformed into a vibrant tapestry of pineapple fields. The moment we reached the plantations, it felt like we had entered a tropical paradise. The sight of rows upon rows of golden pineapples was simply amazing, and the sweet, intoxicating aroma lingered in the air.
One of the highlights of this region is its pineapple production, which is renowned for its exceptional quality. Did you know that pineapple plants typically bear fruit just once before the original plant dies? However, they produce new shoots, known as “pups,” that can be nurtured into fresh pineapple plants, which will also yield fruit only once in their lifetime. This fascinating fact deepened my appreciation for pineapples; I now see them as the jewels of the fruit world. The pineapples in French Polynesia are, without a doubt, the best I’ve ever tasted.
A brand synonymous with Mo’orea’s pineapple heritage is Rotui. Known for its high-quality pineapple products, including juices and jams, Rotui captures the island’s tropical essence and is a must-try for any visitor.
One important note: Please refrain from picking pineapples from the plantations. They are the hard-earned produce of dedicated farmers who work tirelessly to cultivate these delicious fruits. Respecting their labour ensures that the beauty and bounty of Route des Ananas can be enjoyed for generations to come.DAY 5.
MO’OREA
The next day, we took the morning to drive around and explore more of Mo’orea, capturing some last snaps of this breathtaking island. While there’s so much to see, there are a few highlights you absolutely shouldn’t miss: a whale-watching tour, the stunning views from Belvedere Lookout, the beautiful beaches of Temae and Matira, the lush landscapes of the Magic Mountain hike, and the vibrant coral gardens for snorkelling.
After we left our AVIS Tahiti rental car at the airport, we simply had to lock the keys in a secure box that we attached to the window of the car. It was a struggle-free experience from beginning to end. However, on our first day in Tahiti, we had a bit of a hiccup when picking up the car. We encountered some misunderstanding with the dates because we were flying in from New Zealand, landing on the same day but a day later in terms of the calendar due to the time zone difference. Thankfully, the staff at AVIS was incredibly professional and managed our mistake with ease. Fortunately, our car was already available, which made the process much smoother.
Once we left the car, we took a short flight to Raiatea. Unfortunately, we weren't as well prepared for this leg of our journey, and the struggle to find an available car was real. After some searching, we finally found a vehicle, but we had to change it or leave it the afternoon before we were scheduled to depart the island.
MO’OREA – RAIATEA – approx. 350 km ( 217 mi) / flight duration 1 hr
RAIATEA
Raiatea, often referred to as the "Sacred Island," is a gem nestled in the Society Archipelago of French Polynesia. Covering an area of approximately 175 km² (about 68 mi²), this enchanting island is home to around 12,300 residents. The main city, Uturoa, serves as the island's hub and is the second-largest town in French Polynesia, following the much larger Papeete.
Raiatea holds a significant place in Polynesian history, often regarded as the birthplace of Polynesian culture and mythology. It is rich in archaeological treasures that tell the stories of ancient civilizations. A must-visit during your stay is the Marae Taputapuatea, the historical centre of religious and political power for all of Polynesia. This sacred site is not only a testament to Raiatea's cultural heritage but also a place where visitors can feel the essence of "Mana," the spiritual energy believed to flow through the island.
Uturoa, tucked between the serene lagoon and the majestic Mount Tapioi, boasts a lively market where you can find fresh local produce, crafts, and souvenirs, providing a taste of the island's vibrant culture. In addition, visitors can enjoy a range of activities, from exploring the picturesque waterfront to indulging in delicious local cuisine at various eateries.
Raiatea's wild landscapes, rich history, and cultural significance make it a captivating destination for anyone looking to immerse themselves in the essence of the raw Polynesian life.
WHERE TO STAY
I would recommend staying on the eastern coast of Raiatea. We rented a cute private overwater villa at Le Popoti Lodge (Airbnb), but our experience was marred by a severe mosquito situation. Although the lodge had a kayak for guests and a cosy living room, being surrounded by dense greenery didn’t help keep the insects at bay. This turned out to be our worst encounter with bugs in French Polynesia. Additionally, the water in the toilet wasn't functioning well, so I can’t fully recommend this place, despite its charming, authentic experience in some ways.
On this day, we made a short drive not too far from our accommodation. After that, we came back to our bungalow to enjoy the sunset and the ocean just below us.
DAY 6.
RAIATEA – TAHA’A – approx. 30 km (18.6 mi) / boat travel time 30 min – 1 hr
RAIATEA MARINA
Our second day in Raiatea was planned as a tour of Taha’a, showcasing all the traditional and famous attractions there. We booked a boat tour with Are Tours, and it turned out to be the funniest experience ever! All the staff were so friendly, constantly singing and dancing, cracking jokes, and playing on a shell horn, which was adorable.
TAHA’A
Taha’a, often referred to as the "Vanilla Island," is a picturesque gem located in the Society Archipelago of French Polynesia. Spanning approximately 90 km² (about 35 mi²), this intimate island is home to around 5,500 residents, making it a peaceful retreat for those seeking a more tranquil experience. The main settlement, Patio, is a charming village that offers a glimpse into local life.
Known for its lush landscapes and fragrant vanilla plantations, Taha’a is considered a haven for those who appreciate the finer things in life. The island is renowned for producing some of the highest quality Tahitian vanilla in the world, and visitors can explore various vanilla farms to learn about the cultivation process and sample delicious vanilla-infused products.
While Taha’a may lack the hustle and bustle of more populated islands, its beauty lies in its serene atmosphere and stunning natural surroundings. The island is encircled by a vibrant coral reef, making it an excellent destination for snorkelling and diving, where you can discover an array of marine life in crystal-clear waters.
Taha’a offers a slower pace of life, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in its tranquil ambience. With its lush scenery, rich agricultural heritage, and peaceful charm, Taha’a is a delightful destination for those looking to escape the crowds and enjoy the simple pleasures of island life. If you have the opportunity, Taha’a is certainly worth a visit for a unique and relaxing experience, or at least for a day tour.
FARE VANIRA VANILLA PLANTATION
We started the tour with a visit to a vanilla plantation. The owners explained everything about vanilla and how the flowers must be hand-pollinated; if you touch the flowers with your fingers, they can die. They also shared that each vine can produce about 100 to 200 vanilla pods per year under the right conditions. Interestingly, vanilla is not native to French Polynesia; it was imported in the 19th century from Mexico, along with the required species of bees for pollination. The locals joke that the Tahitian bees are "lazy and fat," which is why hand-pollination is necessary.
The owners also explained how to properly store vanilla once harvested: it should be kept in alcohol, typically around 40-60% alcohol by volume, which helps preserve its flavour and aroma. Vanilla beans can be submerged in vodka, rum, or even brandy, creating homemade vanilla extract that can be used in a variety of culinary applications. This extract is perfect for baking, cooking, or adding flavour to beverages, making it a versatile ingredient in both sweet and savoury dishes. Additionally, the oil extracted from vanilla can be used in cosmetics and aromatherapy for its soothing properties and delightful scent.
We decided to buy some vanilla and also picked up some monoi oil, which is made by soaking the petals of the Tiare flower in coconut oil. The vanilla-infused monoi oil and the tiare version are both popular for their delightful fragrances and skin-nourishing properties.
ST. JAMES RUM TASTING
After we visited the plantation, we took the boat to a renowned rum distillery, where we enjoyed a tasting of the famous St. James rum, known for its rich flavour and history in French Polynesia. The distillery offers a unique insight into the rum-making process and the various types produced on the islands. However, I must admit that rum is not my thing. I tasted it, but I've never liked drinking hard alcohol.
THE CORAL GARDEN OF TAUTAU
Next, we headed for snorkelling at the Coral Garden of Tautau, which was lovely. Here, we also saw the heart-shaped Motu, a picturesque spot perfect for taking drone photos and soaking in the natural beauty.
LOVE HERE PEARL FARM
On our way further, we made a stop at Love Here Pearl Farm, where we learned first-hand about the fascinating process of cultivating black pearls and the quality standards used to assess them. At Love Here, they explained the differences in pearl sizes, shapes, and colours, as well as their pricing. As already mentioned, French Polynesia produces about 95% of the world's black pearls, making it a prime destination for pearl lovers.
Prices for black pearls can vary widely based on several factors, including size, colour, shape, and lustre. On average, you can expect to pay anywhere from $50 to several thousand dollars for a single pearl. Smaller pearls, around 8-9mm, might start at around $50 to $200, while larger, high-quality pearls can range from $500 to over $3,000. The most prized pearls, known for their deep, rich colours and perfect shapes, can fetch even higher prices, especially when set in jewellery.
In terms of colour, the rarest and most expensive black pearl colours include:
Peacock Green: Highly sought after and considered one of the rarest, these pearls have vibrant green tones with beautiful overtones of blue and gold.
Blue: Extremely rare, blue-black pearls can range from light to deep, rich blues, with more intense colours commanding higher prices.
Chocolate: Rich, warm tones of chocolate-coloured black pearls can also be valuable, especially when they have a deep, uniform colour and beautiful lustre.
Silver: Silver pearls, ranging from light to dark, are considered valuable, and more pronounced silver hues increase their desirability.
Green: Dark green pearls with a rich, vibrant tone are prized and can have overtones of yellow and gold.
Black with Iridescent Overtones: Pearls that are primarily black but exhibit rare overtones (like pink, purple, or gold) are highly coveted for their uniqueness.
We couldn’t resist buying a few more black pearls ourselves—it felt like a once-in-a-lifetime purchase, a memory of our honeymoon!
LUNCH IN PARADISE
Afterwards, heading north of the island of Taha’a, we made a stop on a private motu for lunch. There was raw fish in coconut milk, taro, cassava, sweet potato, vegetables, and seasonal fruits. Are Tours was incredibly kind and prepared a plant-based plate for me, and we all enjoyed coconuts to drink. The guides made our handmade plates from banana leaves. We ate at tables in the water, with our feet dipped in the ocean and a few friendly blacktip reef sharks swimming around us. I couldn’t have imagined a better setting! I was sitting right next to the sharks, completely captivated by the excitement and hardly thinking about the food. It still gives me goosebumps of happiness just to remember it.
Once we finished eating and enjoyed the water and its inhabitants, there was a coconut show. The guides sang, danced, climbed trees, showed us how to break a coconut and how to make coconut milk, followed by a performance of a hilarious coconut ritual for coconut milk making. I was chosen, along with a few other girls, to participate. We had to turn around with our hands outstretched, shake our booties, and at the end, scream “Manuia!” (Cheers!) while milking a coconut onto our bodies. No comment on that, but it was super fun!
As a side note, if you skipped the dictionary section above, a "motu" is a small islet or reef islet typically found in tropical regions, particularly in French Polynesia. These charming little islands often surround lagoons and are known for their stunning natural beauty and pristine beaches, making them perfect spots for relaxation and exploration.
After the show, we headed back to Raiatea. On the way, we were lucky enough to see a few dolphins jumping before the rain started.
RAIATEA
Once we returned, we had just enough time to quickly shower and prepare. During the tour, we made some friends, and we all went out for dinner together in the evening at Fish and Blue. It was a nicely designed place, though not particularly accommodating for vegans. However, I would still recommend it at least for a drink.
DAY 7.
RAIATEA
On the next day, we tried to start our adventure with some kayaking in the lagoon right in front of our accommodation. Unfortunately, the morning was quite miserable, with rain pouring down until midday. On the bright side, we were treated to plenty of beautiful rainbows, which added a bit of colour to the grey sky. Despite the weather, we decided to explore the island by car. Circumnavigating Raiatea’s 100 km (about 62 miles) coastline is a fantastic way to truly appreciate its natural beauty and charm.
There’s truly no better way to soak in the enchanting essence of Raiatea than by taking to the roads and meandering around its coastline. The island boasts a wild and untamed beauty. Once you venture beyond the main town of Uturoa, you’ll find yourself surrounded by tranquillity and stunning landscapes with hardly anyone around.
MARAE TAPUTAPUATEA
Our first significant stop was the Marae Taputapuātea, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2017. This ancient religious and cultural spanning six hectares (approx. 14.82 acres) complex is what gives Raiatea its title of "the sacred island." Of all the temples scattered across the vast South Pacific, Marae Taputapuātea holds the utmost importance. While the physical structures may not be as grand as those found in the Marquesas Islands or Easter Island, their historical and cultural significance is profound.
In ancient times, Marae Taputapuātea was the centre of power for the Polynesians. Kings and priests from various islands within the Polynesian Triangle would embark on long voyages to gather for significant meetings at this sacred location. The complex features three platforms to explore, and even today, traditional ceremonies are held on the expansive altar.
ROADTRIPPIN’
As we continued our exploration, we made our way to a viewpoint where we could see stunning peaks and numerous waterfalls cascading down the mountains. The waterfalls visible from the road include Faaroa Waterfall and Hiro Waterfall, both prominent features of the island’s dramatic landscape. Mount Temehani is another notable peak, famous for its unique flora, including the rare Tiare Apetahi flower.
VIEWPOINTS
We then headed to some scenic viewpoints. One of the most accessible is the Belvédère Scenic Lookout. Other viewpoints worth mentioning include Apuau Lookout and the scenic overlooks near the Faaroa River, each offering breathtaking views of the island’s lush terrain and vibrant lagoon.
JARDIN BOTANIQUE DE FAAROA/ RAIATEA BOTANICAL GARDEN
Our next stop was the Raiatea Botanical Garden. The garden is divided into four sections, each showcasing different plant species: shoreline plants, mountain plants, valley plants, and ornamental plants. The Faaroa River runs alongside the garden, with some river tours stopping here.
FAAROA RIVER
The Faaroa River, notable for being the only navigable river in French Polynesia, originates from rainfall in the mountains and flows into Faaroa Bay. As it winds through the pristine rainforest, it offers opportunities for exploration via guided tours, kayaks, or boats. These excursions are a fantastic way to delve deeper into the island’s natural beauty.
As the afternoon wore on, hunger set in, and we began searching for places to eat. To our surprise, we had forgotten that it was Sunday, and in French Polynesia, many establishments are closed for the day. Even fuel stations were shut, with the self-service ones completely out of fuel. All the restaurants and shops were closed, leaving us with limited options.
The only place we found open was the Raiatea Yacht Club, which turned out to be a lifesaver. If you find yourself in a similar situation, make a note of this spot, but be prepared for a quiet Sunday in Raiatea. While a few places opened up in the evening, finding food during the day was quite a challenge.
Later in the afternoon, we had to return the rental car, but due to the earlier-mentioned fuel shortage, we were unable to refuel. This meant we had to pay a bit more when we returned the car. We then took a taxi back to our accommodation, having also booked it for the following morning as we prepared for an early flight to Bora Bora.
In the evening, we enjoyed a meal not far from our lodge. With that, we closed the chapter on our time in Raiatea, bidding it goodnight as we looked forward to our next adventure.
DAY 8.
OFF TO RAIATEA AIRPORT
In the morning, our pre-booked taxi arrived to take us to the luxurious part of our honeymoon. It was time for some pampering and to continue embracing the Tahitian philosophy of "Ia ora na"—a reminder to slow down, savour the moment, and enjoy life’s simple pleasures.
RAIATEA – BORA BORA – approx. 230 km (143 mi)/ flight duration 20-30 mins
Bora Bora's airport, known as Motu Mute Airport, is a small facility located on an islet in the lagoon.
Upon landing, passengers disembark directly onto the tarmac, where the warm tropical breeze welcomes you. The airport features an open-air design, creating a relaxed atmosphere that reflects the island's laid-back vibe. After collecting your luggage, you’ll make your way to the boat terminal just outside the airport.
To reach your resort, you'll typically board a private boat or shuttle, which will whisk you across the sparkling lagoon. Many resorts are located on private motus, providing an exclusive experience surrounded by natural beauty.
This journey from the airport to your resort is not just a transfer; it’s an integral part of the Bora Bora experience, setting the tone for a memorable stay in this tropical paradise.
BORA BORA
Bora Bora is often hailed as the ‘Pearl of the Pacific’, captivating visitors with its stunning beauty and idyllic atmosphere. This small island, covering approximately 29 km² (about 11 mi²), is surrounded by a vibrant lagoon and a barrier reef that creates a breathtaking backdrop of turquoise waters. With a population of around 10,500 residents, Bora Bora exudes a sense of tranquillity and exclusivity.
The island is renowned for its iconic landscape, dominated by the towering peaks of Mount Otemanu and Mount Pahia. These majestic volcanic formations rise dramatically from the lush greenery, creating a stunning contrast against the crystal-clear lagoon.
Bora Bora is surrounded by a protective coral reef and a series of small islands known as motus, which are flat, low-lying islets formed by coral growth around the lagoon.
The motus surrounding Bora Bora are one of the island’s most distinctive features. These small, private islets are scattered around the main island, offering seclusion and stunning views of the lagoon and the towering Mount Otemanu, Bora Bora’s highest peak. These motus are often home to luxury resorts, providing guests with an exclusive and peaceful retreat surrounded by pristine nature.
Historically, the motus were significant in Polynesian culture, serving as fishing grounds, sacred sites, or places for rituals. Today, they continue to provide a serene escape for visitors looking to experience the natural beauty and tranquil environment of Bora Bora. Many motus are only accessible by boat, making them perfect for a variety of outdoor activities such as snorkelling, kayaking, paddleboarding, or simply relaxing on the white-sand beaches.
The motus offer an intimate connection to the island’s unique ecosystem, with vibrant coral gardens, clear lagoons teeming with marine life, and lush tropical plants. They are also a key part of the island’s eco-tourism efforts, with many resorts and conservation programs dedicated to preserving the delicate balance of this stunning environment.
With their natural beauty, peaceful atmosphere, and proximity to the main island of Bora Bora, the motus are a defining feature of the island, providing an idyllic backdrop for those looking for luxury, tranquillity, and a connection to the Pacific’s vibrant culture and ecosystems.
Culturally, Bora Bora is rich in Polynesian traditions, and visitors can experience local customs through dance performances, craft markets, and traditional cuisine. The island's vibrant markets offer a taste of local life, where you can find fresh fruits, handicrafts, and souvenirs.While Bora Bora may be more touristy compared to some of the other islands, its stunning scenery and luxurious offerings make it a must-visit destination.
HONEYMOONING / DAY 8. – DAY 14.We spent six nights in paradise, indulging in the luxury of two of the most dreamy resorts in Bora Bora: the Four Seasons Bora Bora and the Conrad Bora Bora Nui. Instead of detailing each day, I’ll highlight the unforgettable experiences we had at both resorts. This was our time for relaxation and pure joy, focused primarily on honeymooning—so don’t blame us for that! I can’t recommend these resorts highly enough; they truly made our stay extraordinary.DAY 8. – DAY 11.
WHERE TO STAY
FOUR SEASONS BORA BORA
The motu of Four Seasons Bora Bora, known as Motu Tehotu, is a small, private islet located on the southwestern side of Bora Bora. It is part of the chain of motus that encircles the main island and provides an exclusive and serene environment for guests seeking a luxurious and tranquil escape.
Motu Tehotu offers unobstructed views of Bora Bora’s iconic Mount Otemanu, which towers over the island. The motu itself is surrounded by a lagoon filled with clear, shallow waters that are perfect for snorkelling, kayaking, and other water activities. The coral reefs nearby host a variety of marine life, creating a natural paradise for nature enthusiasts.
When we planned our honeymoon, we wanted something unforgettable, and staying at the Four Seasons Bora Bora delivered exactly that. From the moment we arrived until the moment we left, every detail was taken care of, making it a truly special experience.
ARRIVAL
The journey started with a pick-up on the Four Seasons’ beautiful boat, which met us at Bora Bora Airport. The ride to the resort took about 15 minutes, giving us plenty of time to soak in the turquoise waters of the lagoon and the iconic views of Mount Otemanu.
As soon as we boarded, we were greeted with flower necklaces called hei, a lovely traditional gesture to welcome guests. Refreshing towels and cold water were offered right away—simple touches that set the tone for the level of service we’d experience during our stay.
As we approached the resort, the sounds of a ukulele and a traditional pahu drum greeted us, a warm and authentic Polynesian welcome that immediately made us feel special.
After check-in, a staff member gave us a quick tour of the property. The resort itself is breathtaking, but the real jaw-dropper was our Overwater Bungalow Suite with Plunge Pool and a panoramic view of Mount Otemanu. It felt like we were living in a postcard—total French Polynesian perfection.
THE SYMBOLISM OF THE ‘UMU HEI
One of the highlights of my stay was wearing a beautiful ‘umu hei, a traditional Polynesian flower crown. These crowns are more than just decorative—they carry deep cultural meaning. The ’umu hei symbolizes beauty, love, and connection to nature and is often worn by women during celebrations, weddings, and special events in French Polynesia.
Each ’umu hei is handcrafted with fresh local flowers and fragrant leaves, such as tiare (gardenia), frangipani, and hibiscus, making them not only beautiful but also wonderfully aromatic. Traditionally, the crafting process is considered an art, and wearing one is a sign of honour and joy.
For men, the counterpart is typically a hei or hei titi, a garland or crown made of flowers
and leaves, often simpler in design but equally symbolic. Wearing the ‘umu hei made me feel fully immersed in the local culture and added an extra touch of magic to our stay.
TIP: To preserve your umu hei longer, keep it cool and moist. Mist it lightly with water and store it in a plastic bag in the refrigerator when not in use. This helps the flowers stay fresh for a couple of days so you can enjoy their beauty even after your special occasion.
THE RESORT: WHAT TO EXPECT
The Four Seasons Bora Bora is luxurious yet relaxed, with plenty of amenities and activities to make your stay unforgettable:
Infinity Pool: A stunning pool with breathtaking views of the lagoon and Mount Otemanu, perfect for both relaxation and Instagram-worthy moments.
Tennis Courts: For those who want to stay active during their stay.
Fitness Centre: A well-equipped gym with incredible views, making workouts feel less like a chore.
24-Hour Business Centre: For any work that can’t wait, although the surroundings make it hard to stay focused!
Complimentary Snorkelling Equipment: Explore the underwater wonders of the lagoon without any extra cost.
Kayaks and Stand-Up Paddleboards: Glide across the crystal-clear waters of the lagoon at your own pace.
Coral Gardening: Join the Four Seasons Bora Bora in their reef restoration efforts for a unique and educational experience. Participate in a hands-on session with a marine biologist, where you'll learn about the vital role of corals and reefs in our ecosystem. Conclude your experience by fragmenting your own coral and placing it in the resort's coral nursery, contributing to the conservation of these beautiful underwater habitats.
Volleyball and Badminton Courts: Fun options for casual games.
Salon for Marriages with Mount Otemanu and Lagoon View: A dedicated space for weddings and vow renewals, perfect for couples looking to tie the knot in paradise.
DINING
The resort offers a variety of dining options to suit every mood and occasion:
Arii Moana: A romantic fine dining restaurant that focuses on fresh seafood and locally sourced ingredients.
Tere Nui: The go-to spot for delicious breakfasts, with a wide selection of tropical fruits, pastries, and hot dishes. In the evenings, they host themed dinners with flavours from around the world.
Vaimiti: An Asian-inspired restaurant that combines Polynesian flavours with Asian techniques, offering a unique culinary experience with overwater views.
Fare Hoa Beach Bar and Grill: Perfect for a laid-back lunch, traditional dishes or sunset cocktails by the beach.
For an unforgettable experience, the resort also organizes romantic private dinners. You can even board a traditional canoe to a private white-sand motu (islet), where you’ll be greeted with champagne and treated to a personalized dinner for two as the sun sets into the water—a perfect way to celebrate a honeymoon or special occasion.
A UNIQUE BREAKFAST EXPERIENCE
One of the most memorable mornings of our stay was the Sea, Sun, Sweet breakfast, which we enjoyed on a beautifully decorated tray floating in the water by the main beach. With Mount Otemanu as our backdrop, it was the ultimate tropical indulgence.
The tray was packed with colourful exotic fruits, fresh coconut drinks, tropical juices, and a variety of pastries. Sipping coconut water and enjoying the peaceful morning lagoon views made this breakfast truly unforgettable.
ACTIVITIES: A MIX OF RELAXATION AND FUN
One of the things I loved most about this resort was the variety of activities. Many are complimentary, so you can try new things without extra cost.
I started my mornings with yoga by the water, which was both peaceful and energizing. Later, I joined a Monoi oil-making workshop, where I learned about the Polynesian tradition of blending coconut oil with flowers like tiare (gardenia). We even got to create our own bottles with personalized scents!
If you’re into water sports, there’s a lot to choose from, like jet-skiing, paddleboarding, or booking a sunset catamaran tour (these are paid).
TĀTAU - TATOO
During one of our evenings at the Four Seasons, we returned from dinner to find a thoughtful surprise waiting for us on our bed: temporary tattoos. These were the kind that come on a sheet of paper and are applied with damp water, a playful nod to the rich tattoo culture of French Polynesia.
In French Polynesia, tattoos, or tātao, hold profound significance that goes far beyond mere decoration. They are deeply woven into the fabric of Polynesian identity and serve as a social marker, indicating one’s affiliation with a particular clan or territory. Each tattoo tells a unique story, representing personal achievements, family heritage, and cultural beliefs.The art of tattooing, or tātau, is considered the highest form of this craft.
Traditionally, tattoos are not just a one-time event but a continuous journey. The designs are often left open-ended, allowing for future artists to add to the work. This ensures a seamless integration of old motifs and new elements, creating a living tapestry of experiences and stories on the wearer’s skin.
When someone receives a tattoo, it creates a deep connection between the tattoo artist and the individual, marked by the transfer of mana, or spiritual energy. This bond is significant, as the tattoo becomes a part of the person’s identity, embodying their life experiences, values, and lineage. The process of getting tattooed is often seen as a rite of passage, symbolizing strength, courage, and a commitment to one’s culture.
Historically, tattoos in Polynesia were not only artistic expressions but also served practical purposes. They could indicate rank or status within a community and were often used to commemorate important life events, such as victories in battle or significant personal milestones. Each design carries specific meanings, often inspired by nature, mythology, and the spiritual world.
As we admired our temporary tattoos that evening, it struck us how even these playful imitations of the traditional art form could spark a deeper appreciation for the rich legacy of tattooing in French Polynesia—a legacy that celebrates individuality while honouring the collective history of the islands.
FLOWER DECORATED OUTRIGGER CANOE RIDE
One of my favourite moments was taking a ride in a va’a, a traditional Polynesian outrigger canoe. These canoes were historically used for fishing and travel, and the resort has beautifully decorated versions for special occasions. My canoe was covered in flowers, and they even gave me a matching ‘umu hei—it was such a fun and memorable experience.
The va’a is an important part of Polynesian heritage, symbolizing the islands’ deep connection to the sea. The experience felt like stepping into a living piece of history, with a modern romantic twist.
EVENING ENTERTAINMENT
The resort also offers cultural shows that are a must-see. We watched a Polynesian dance show, including the traditional ’ōte’a dances and an exciting fire dance performance. The energy and storytelling in the performances were incredible, giving us a deeper appreciation for the local culture.
RELAXATION AND FAREWELL
While Nico went on a whale-watching tour one morning, I decided to stay back and unwind. The resort is full of spots to relax, like hammocks and swings with views of Mount Otemanu. I also loved kayaking and paddleboarding in the crystal-clear lagoon—it felt like floating on air.
As our stay came to an end, the staff gave us shell necklaces, a traditional way of saying goodbye in Bora Bora. It’s a small gesture, but it feels so meaningful, especially after such an incredible stay.
When it was time to leave, we were once again whisked away by the resort’s stunning boat for the short 15-minute trip back to the airport. From there, we were picked up for the next dream destination of our honeymoon in Bora Bora, leaving us full of gratitude and incredible memories from our time at the Four Seasons.
Instagram: @fsborabora
Book here: Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora
DAY 11. – DAY 14.
After a dreamlike stay at Four Seasons Bora Bora, we arrived at the stunning Conrad Bora Bora Nui for the next part of our French Polynesian honeymoon adventure.
WHERE TO STAY
CONRAD BORA BORA NUI
ARRIVAL
Our journey began with a boat transfer from the airport to the resort, lasting around 20 minutes, during which we were treated to breathtaking lagoon views. We were greeted again with fresh flower garlands (hei) around our necks, along with refreshing water onboard.
The Conrad Bora Bora Nui is uniquely located on Motu To’opua, a private islet on the southwest side of Bora Bora’s main island. This location provides a different perspective of the iconic Mount Otemanu and is steeped in history. In ancient Polynesian times, Motu To’opua was considered a sacred place where warriors sought refuge and peace.
On arrival at the resort, live Polynesian music welcomed us, setting a celebratory mood. After check-in, we were given a tour of the property and escorted to our Overwater Villa with a private pool and sunset views.
OVERWATER VILLA WITH A TWIST
The villa was stunning, with elegant decor, a spacious layout, and direct access to the turquoise lagoon. A unique feature of all overwater bungalows here is the suspended hammock-like net, called a “catamaran net”, perfect for sunbathing or lounging above the water.
The resort surprised us with lovely gestures during our stay, making me feel like it was my birthday (well it was our honeymoon instead)! From personalized notes to small treats, their hospitality was exceptional.
BIKES
For added convenience and fun, the Conrad provides bikes for guests to explore the resort, making it easy to get around while enjoying the lush surroundings.
THE HINA SPA: A SANCTUARY ABOVE THE LAGOON
One of the most memorable moments was our traditional Tahitian couple massage at Conrad’s Hina Spa. Located high on a hill, the spa offers panoramic views of the lagoon and the resort below, making it the ultimate retreat for relaxation.
Our spa room was beautifully decorated, blending Polynesian traditions with modern luxury. The massage itself was deeply relaxing, incorporating Tahitian techniques with local oils, leaving us feeling rejuvenated.
VIEWPOINT
Next to the spa, there’s a viewpoint of Mount Otemanu, perfect for capturing the beauty of Bora Bora. There’s also a charming wedding chapel, making the resort a favourite for couples celebrating special occasions.
ACTIVITIES
The resort offers an impressive range of activities, both on land and in the water.
Coral Gardening: The Conrad actively participates in preserving Bora Bora’s marine ecosystem through coral gardening. Guests can learn about the importance of coral reefs and even contribute to growing new corals, ensuring these vibrant ecosystems thrive for future generations.
Tennis Court: For sports enthusiasts, the tennis court is a great spot to stay active.
Kids Room: Families are well-catered with a dedicated space for children’s activities.
For water lovers, the resort provides kayaks, paddleboards, snorkelling equipment, and access to hammocks on the beach for ultimate relaxation.
I joined a traditional Polynesian dance lesson, learning the art of ’ōte’a, a high-energy dance featuring fast hip movements accompanied by drumbeats. It was an exciting way to connect with Polynesian culture and definitely a fun workout!
SNORKELING WITH MANTA RAYS, EAGLE RAYS AND BORA BORA’S CORAL GARDEN
One of the highlights of our entire trip was the Signature Snorkeling Lagoon tour with Reef Discovery Bora Bora, where we snorkelled with manta rays and eagle rays.
Manta Rays: These graceful creatures can have wingspans of up to 7 meters, depending on the species. Watching them glide effortlessly through the water was mesmerizing.
Eagle Rays: With their spotted patterns, eagle rays are equally fascinating to watch as they swim in schools.
The tour also took us to one of Bora Bora’s most vibrant coral gardens, bursting with life. It was the most colourful coral garden I’ve seen, teeming with schools of fish in every hue imaginable. We even encountered an eel, which our boat driver bravely fed and hugged for a second...!
One fun detail: near the coral garden, there’s an underwater sign that reads “I Love Bora Bora”—a playful touch to this underwater paradise.
DINING
The Conrad Bora Bora Nui offers a variety of dining options to suit every palate:
Iriatai Restaurant: Fine dining with a French-Polynesian twist, offering stunning lagoon views.
Banyan Chinese Restaurant: An Asian-inspired menu featuring classic Chinese dishes with a Polynesian touch.
Tamure Beach Grill: A casual beachfront spot perfect for lunch and sunset cocktails.
One evening, we attended their Polynesian Night, held weekly at Tamure Beach Grill. It was a feast for the senses, starting with traditional Polynesian dishes cooked in an ahima’a, an underground oven made of hot stones.
The cooking process is fascinating: food is wrapped in banana leaves, placed on the hot stones, and covered with earth to slow-cook for hours. The result? Deliciously tender and flavourful dishes that capture the essence of Polynesian cuisine.
The evening also featured a Polynesian dance show, complete with fire dancers. I even joined the performers for a quick dance, which was a fun and unforgettable experience!
EXCLUSIVE MOTU TAPU EXCURSIONS
For an extra-special experience, guests can book a trip to Motu Tapu, a private islet just five minutes from the resort. Once the private beach of Tahitian Queen Pomare IV, Motu Tapu is steeped in history and was once the venue for royal parties and dignitary visits.
Today, it’s available exclusively to Conrad guests for private picnics, champagne sunsets, and romantic getaways. It’s the ultimate escape for couples looking to indulge in their own slice of paradise.
CANOE BREAKFAST
On our last morning, we were treated to a traditional canoe breakfast delivered to our villa. The beautifully decorated va’a canoe arrived at our deck, laden with tropical fruits, fresh pastries, juices, and other delicious treats. It was such a romantic way to start the day, with the serene lagoon and Mount Otemanu in the background.
FAREWELL
As our stay came to an end, we received shell necklaces, a traditional Polynesian farewell gesture, and were escorted back to the airport. It was bittersweet to leave this luxurious haven, but the week of pampering at the Conrad had left us refreshed and ready for the next part of our French Polynesian adventure.
Instagram: @conradboraboranui
Book here: Conrad Bora Bora Nui
DAY 14. Off to the Non-Society Islands
BORA BORA – RANGIROA – approx. 370 km (230 mi) / flight duration 1 hr 15
Once we landed in Rangiroa, we were happy to see that our pre-booked taxi was waiting for us. The kind taxi driver smoothly transported us to our accommodation, making the transition from the airport hassle-free and convenient.
RANGIROA
Rangiroa is one of the largest and most famous atolls in the Tuamotu Archipelago of French Polynesia, distinct from the Society Islands. Spanning approximately 1,600 km² (about 61 mi²), Rangiroa is known for its breathtaking lagoon and stunning coral reefs, making it a paradise for divers and snorkelling enthusiasts. With a population of around 2,500 residents, the atoll offers a unique blend of natural beauty and local culture.
Rangiroa is often celebrated for its incredible marine biodiversity, attracting visitors from around the world who come to explore its vibrant underwater ecosystems. The atoll is home to numerous dive sites, including the famous Tiputa Pass and Avatoru Pass, where you can encounter a variety of marine life, such as sharks, rays, and colourful fish. The crystal-clear waters and thriving coral gardens make it one of the top diving destinations in the world.
The landscape of Rangiroa is characterized by its numerous motus that surround the lagoon, providing picturesque views and tranquil beaches. Visitors can enjoy various water activities such as kayaking, paddleboarding, and fishing, or simply relax on the soft sands while soaking in the serene atmosphere.
Culturally, Rangiroa has a rich heritage, with its local communities often engaging in traditional practices such as pearl farming and agriculture. The atoll is known for producing high-quality black pearls, which are a significant part of its economy.
While Rangiroa may be less frequented than some of the more famous islands, its stunning natural beauty and diverse marine life make it a captivating destination for those seeking adventure and tranquillity. For us, it represents a unique and beautiful aspect of French Polynesia, inviting exploration and discovery in its pristine surroundings.
WHERE TO STAY
While there are a few upscale resorts, we decided to once again experience the hospitality of the local guesthouses and bungalows. During our stay, we opted for an Airbnb recommended by my brother-in-law called Mangawa Bungalow. It was a comfortable choice that allowed us to easily walk to local points of interest. The bungalow provided a cosy atmosphere and the convenience of being close to the island's “attractions”.
While you could rent bikes from the owners of our bungalow, we decided against it. Many dogs are roaming freely on the island, and we didn't want to risk being chased. Walking was a pleasant alternative, and although the dogs would bark occasionally, they generally showed less interest in us, making our strolls enjoyable.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS – WHALES, DOLPHINS, AND A STORM WELCOME
Upon our arrival in Rangiroa, we decided to explore the island on foot, taking a leisurely stroll along the main road on the north side. To our surprise, we spotted whales not too far from the shore! Watching one or two of them breaching the surface and sending plumes of water spraying from their blowholes was an impressive sight. After having gone on boat tours to see them, it was incredible to witness them from the shore as well.
As we continued our walk, we stopped by Les Relais de Joséphine for drinks on the deck, eagerly anticipating the well-known dolphin ‘’show’’ that starts around 5 pm. The dolphins gather at Tiputa Pass, a well-known spot where the lagoon meets the open sea. This area is famous not only for its resident dolphins but also for its giant waves that crash dramatically against the reef, creating a stunning visual spectacle. While we were there, we even saw a giant cruise ship passing through the pass, adding to the grandeur of the scene.
The evening did not disappoint; we were treated to an incredible display of dolphins jumping and playing in the water. At one point, several boat tours arrived, and the friendly dolphins showcased their skills, leaping close to the boats—such little show-offs!
We had hoped to stay for dinner at the Josephine restaurant, but unfortunately, it was fully booked not just for the day, but for the entire week! So, if you're planning to dine there, be sure to book in advance. I can't speak to the quality of the food, but I've heard it’s one of the better dining options in the area.
Later that evening, we had a bit of a disaster with our meal, but I’ll spare you the details. Then came the storm. We found ourselves walking through complete darkness since there were no streetlights, dodging the rain and hearing dogs barking in the distance as we made our way back to our accommodation. I’m not complaining, but it’s wise to be prepared—bringing a torch and a raincoat would definitely be beneficial. We also carried a little wooden stick—not to hit the dogs (please don’t do that!), but just in case we needed to scare them away. Walking in the dark while hearing barking dogs amidst the storm felt a bit horror-like, to say the least!
All in all, it was a memorable first day filled with adventure and unexpected moments.
DAY 15.
THE TRIANGLE : LAGON BLEU+ ÎLE AUX RÉCIFS
The next day, we embarked on an adventure to two mythical sites, each showcasing incredible contrasts: the stunning Île aux Récifs (Reef Island) and the breathtaking Lagon Bleu (Blue Lagoon). These two locations offer a unique glimpse into the natural beauty of Rangiroa, with the vibrant colours of the lagoon contrasting dramatically with the rugged formations of the reef.
We were picked up by Orava Excursions at around 7:30 am and brought to the Ohotu wharf, where we boarded our boat for the day tour. Departing promptly at 8:00 am, we set off on a 45-minute ride to Île aux Récifs.
MOTU TIAHURA
Upon arrival, we found ourselves on a motu where wild pigs were munching on coconuts. This little paradise, named Motu Tiahura, was incredible! After enjoying a light snack and refreshing drinks, we prepared to explore the nearby Île aux Récifs, just a short walk away, where we only had to wet our feet to cross over.
ÎLE AUX RÉCIFS
Île aux Récifs is a captivating destination known for its diverse marine life and stunning landscapes. The best time to visit is during low tide when the currents allow for easy walking around the island. As we strolled along the shallows, we encountered numerous sea cucumbers—specifically the black ones—which are fascinating creatures that play a key role in the marine ecosystem by recycling nutrients in the sand.
We also spotted an octopus and a multitude of sea urchins. It’s important to be cautious around the sea urchins, as stepping on one can result in painful stings due to their sharp spines. There are plenty of them, so keeping an eye on where you step is essential!The island is marked by "ho'a," small shallow canals that delineate lush islets. As we walked towards the oceanic reef, we were greeted by a surreal landscape filled with fossilized coral mushrooms, known locally as "Feo," which rise 3 to 4 meters above sea level (9.8 to 13.1 ft). This almost lunar landscape was contrasted perfectly against the indigo blue of the ocean.
On the lagoon side, Île aux Récifs offers a marvellous tropical vista with numerous "ho'a" crisscrossing the lush islands. Accompanied by our knowledgeable guide, we reached the edge of the ocean, where the greyish "Feo" formations stood as silent sentinels against the vibrant blue waves crashing over the reddish reef. Behind us lay the picturesque tropical scene of the turquoise lagoon with islets dotted with coconut palms. The visual contrasts of this place were breathtaking!
LAGON BLEU
After soaking in the beauty of Île aux Récifs, we returned to the boat and headed off to the Lagon Bleu, a short 45-minute ride away. As we approached, we were greeted by a dazzling sight: several motus inside the lagoon formed a stunning oasis, resembling a diamond on a ring. The explosion of colours was spectacular, with thousands of blacktip reef sharks swimming gracefully around us.
We anchored the boat and made our way to a small islet, where we settled in the shade of a comfortable "Fare pote'e" (gazebo). In front of us lay the mythical Lagon Bleu of Rangiroa, with its mesmerizing shades of blue and turquoise that changed with the light throughout the day.
We were given time for swimming, enjoying lunch, and even participating in a workshop where we made bags from banana leaves, guided by one of the locals who also showed us how he climbs a coconut tree. Around 3:30 pm, we reluctantly returned to the boat for the last part of our tour.
TIPUTA PASS AND L’AQUARIUM
On our way back, we stopped at Tiputa Pass to watch the dolphins surf and jump on the waves, a fitting finale to our day. Our final stop was the Aquarium, rich in various species of tropical fish—perfect for snorkelling!
If we had more time, on the next day we would have loved to explore Sables Roses, another beautiful location known for its stunning pink sand beaches. The tour we took was quite long, and for those who have more time on the island, I would recommend doing the Reef Islands and the Blue Lagoon on separate days to fully appreciate the beauty of each site.
By around 5:30 pm, we were back at the Ohotu wharf. While there was an option for a drop-off back to our accommodation, we decided to stay and find some food as we were too tired to make the round trip.
We had hoped to stop by a nearby supermarket, only to find ourselves stepping into an eerily dark space. The flickering lights overhead cast unsettling shadows, creating an atmosphere that felt more like a scene from a horror movie than a place to pick up something for dinner. The vast hall had an overwhelming silence, punctuated only by the occasional buzzing of the lights.
In the corner, a tiny section served as the supermarket, but it was poorly lit and stocked. As we surveyed the shelves, our hopes sank—no fresh vegetables, no fruits, no bread, and not even a regular bag of chips which I take only in my most desperate times of hunger.
After this, we had no choice but to go to another restaurant nearby, which turned out to be yet another letdown, but hey it’s all about the experience and we appreciate every bit of it.
DAY 16.
RANGIROA
As our last half day on the island arrived, we decided to take it easy. We wouldn't have time to visit Sables Roses, but I highly recommend that future travellers make the effort to go if they have the chance. It looks like a beautiful spot that shouldn't be missed!
We took the same taxi driver who had brought us to our bungalow, and this time we arrived at the airport way too early. Unfortunately, we faced our first fine for overweight luggage, but the fee was peanuts compared to what we would have paid in Europe. The kindness of the lady at the check-in counter made the situation even more bearable; her warm demeanour made it hard to feel bad about the extra charges. When we left the change, she politely declined, saying we could use it for pastries or water instead.
While it’s true that French Polynesians may operate at a slower pace—something to keep in mind if you’re in a hurry at a restaurant or making arrangements—they are truly the kindest people I’ve ever met.
After an okay lunch at the airport, we were off to Auckland for the final chapter of our honeymoon adventure before heading back to Switzerland.
A Society Rooted in Harmony
French Polynesia is more than a collection of islands; it is a society built on respect for nature and community. The Polynesians have a profound connection to the ocean and land, and this respect is evident in everything from their sustainable fishing practices to the warmth they show visitors. Every interaction, from markets to casual conversations, was marked by a genuine kindness that left us humbled and inspired.
Our journey through French Polynesia was everything we had dreamed of and more. Each island offered something unique, and together, they created a tapestry of memories we will treasure forever.
If French Polynesia is on your bucket list, don’t wait. It is a place that truly redefines paradise—and a destination that will forever hold a special place in our hearts.
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