India is not the first destination that comes to mind when you ask your friends about their dream trips. It’s often overshadowed by other popular travel destinations. Yet for me, India has been at the top of my bucket list for over 15 years.
I kept postponing the trip, mainly because I wanted to travel somewhere both my partner and I were equally excited about. But this dream was too big to keep delaying. Finally, after much discussion, my partner agreed, and here we are—exploring the vibrant, chaotic, and deeply spiritual land of India for 15 incredible days.
India truly is a country of contrasts. From the regal palaces of Rajasthan and holy cows wandering freely in bustling streets, to UNESCO heritage sites like the Taj Mahal, the hauntingly spiritual Varanasi—the city of life and death—to stunning deserts, safaris in search of Royal Bengal tigers, and serene coastlines, it’s a kaleidoscope of experiences.
The Golden Triangle is one of India’s most iconic travel routes, connecting Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur. This classic circuit offers a perfect introduction to India’s rich history, architectural wonders, and cultural diversity. But while the Golden Triangle is a must-see, our journey took us beyond the beaten path. Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh, with all their facets, were the heart of our journey. India is not perfect—but that imperfection is part of its charm. The trip has enriched us in ways we couldn’t have imagined, and I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything.
In this blog, I’ll show you not only the highlights of the Golden Triangle but also the hidden treasures that lie beyond.
GENERAL INFORMATION
India’s history stretches back over 5,000 years, making it one of the oldest civilizations in the world. The Indus Valley Civilization flourished here, followed by the Vedic period, which laid the foundation for Hindu culture and philosophy. India has seen empires like the Mauryas, Guptas, Mughals, and British Raj shape its identity before gaining independence in 1947.
India is the birthplace of four major religions—Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, and Sikhism. It also houses thriving communities of Muslims, Christians, Jews, and Zoroastrians, making it one of the most religiously diverse nations.
Location: India is located in South Asia, bordered by Pakistan to the northwest, China and Nepal to the north, Bhutan to the northeast, and Bangladesh and Myanmar to the east. To the south lies the Indian Ocean, with the Arabian Sea to the southwest and the Bay of Bengal to the southeast. This unique position makes India geographically diverse, with everything from towering Himalayan peaks to sprawling deserts, dense jungles, and tropical beaches.
Etymology: The name “India” comes from the River Indus, referred to as “Sindhu” in Sanskrit.
Symbol: The national symbol is the Lion Capital of Ashoka, symbolizing courage and power.
Size: India covers 3.287 million km² (1.27 million mi²), making it the seventh-largest country in the world.
Capital: New Delhi
Population: Over 1.4 billion people, making it the most populous country in the world.
Languages: Hindi and English are official languages, but there are 22 recognized regional languages and over 1,600 dialects.
Sanskrit: Sanskrit is one of the oldest languages in the world and is considered the root of many Indian languages. While it’s no longer widely spoken in everyday life, it’s still used in religious texts, classical literature, and scholarly works. You might hear it in chants or see it inscribed on temples during your travels.
Alphabet: Devanagari is the script used for several Indian languages, including Hindi and Sanskrit. It’s a beautiful and intricate writing system with 48 characters, including vowels and consonants. If you’re a language enthusiast, you’ll find it fascinating to see how it’s used in signs, books, and daily life.
DICTIONARY
Greetings and basic phrases:
नमस्ते (Namaste) - Hello / Greetings (used for both hello and goodbye).
धन्यवाद (Dhanyavaad) - Thank you.
कृपया (Kripya) - Please.
माफ़ कीजिए (Maaf kijiye) - Excuse me / Sorry.
हाँ (Haan) - Yes.
नहीं (Nahi) - No.
कैसे हैं आप? (Kaise hain aap?) - How are you?
मैं ठीक हूँ (Main theek hoon) - I am fine.
आपका नाम क्या है? (Aapka naam kya hai?) - What is your name?
मेरा नाम ___ है (Mera naam ___ hai) - My name is ___.
Travel and directions:
यह कितने का है? (Yeh kitne ka hai?) - How much is this?
यह कहाँ है? (Yeh kahan hai?) - Where is this?
मुझे जाना है ___ (Mujhe jana hai ___) - I need to go to ___.
टैक्सी कहाँ मिलेगी? (Taxi kahan milegi?) - Where can I find a taxi?
बाएं (Baayein) - Left.
दाएं (Daayein) - Right.
सीधे (Seedhe) - Straight ahead.
कितनी दूर है? (Kitni door hai?) - How far is it?
Food and dining:
मुझे भूख लगी है (Mujhe bhookh lagi hai) - I am hungry.
पानी (Paani) - Water.
मेनू (Menu) - Menu.
बिल (Bill) - Bill/Check.
यह बहुत स्वादिष्ट है (Yeh bahut swadisht hai) - This is very delicious.
मुझे शाकाहारी भोजन चाहिए (Mujhe shakahari bhojan chahiye) - I want vegetarian food.
मसालेदार (Masaledar) - Spicy.
कम मसाले वाला (Kam masale wala) - Less spicy.
Shopping and bargaining:
कीमत कम कीजिए (Keemat kam kijiye) - Please reduce the price.
यह बहुत महंगा है (Yeh bahut mehenga hai) - This is too expensive.
क्या यह छूट है? (Kya yeh chhoot hai?) - Is this a discount?
मुझे यह चाहिए (Mujhe yeh chahiye) - I want this.
Cultural and spiritual terms:
गंगा (Ganga) - The Ganges River, considered sacred in Hinduism.
घाट (Ghat) - Steps leading down to a river, often used for rituals.
मंदिर (Mandir) - Temple.
पूजा (Puja) - Worship or prayer ritual.
आरती (Aarti) - A devotional ritual involving fire and chanting.
Emergency phrases:
मदद! (Madad!) - Help!
मुझे डॉक्टर चाहिए (Mujhe doctor chahiye) - I need a doctor.
पुलिस (Police) - Police.
यह खतरनाक है (Yeh khatarnak hai) - This is dangerous.
Currency: Indian Rupee (INR | ₹). For reference: 1 INR = 0.011 EUR; 1 INR = 0.0012 USD
ATMs are widely available, but keep in mind that there’s typically a withdrawal limit of 10,000 INR per transaction. Plan accordingly to ensure you have enough cash for your expenses, as not all places accept credit cards.
Local Time: India Standard Time (IST) is GMT+5:30/ a unique half-hour shift. India operates on Indian Standard Time (IST), which is 5 hours and 30 minutes ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). This unique time difference is due to India’s decision to set its time zone at a half-hour mark, which can be a fun quirk to adjust to.
Economy: India has a diverse economy, driven by agriculture, industry, services, and technology. It is one of the fastest-growing economies globally.
Best time to visit: India is a vast country with diverse climatic conditions, so the best time to visit depends on the region and the type of experience you are looking for. However, the most popular time to travel is during the cooler months between October and March. Here’s a breakdown of the seasons, their highlights, and what to expect:
Winter (October to March)
This is considered the best time to visit India as the weather is cool and dry, making it ideal for sightseeing and outdoor activities.
What to do:
Explore Rajasthan’s deserts and palaces without the scorching heat.
Visit the Taj Mahal at sunrise for clear skies and pleasant weather.
Enjoy wildlife safaris in national parks like Ranthambore or Jim Corbett, as animals are easier to spot.
Head to the beaches of Goa or Kerala, where the sun is warm but not oppressive.
Trek through the Himalayas or visit hill stations like Shimla, Manali, or Darjeeling for a winter wonderland experience.
Festivals to experience:
Diwali (October/November): The Festival of Lights is celebrated across India with lamps, fireworks, and festive meals.
Holi (March): Known as the Festival of Colours, Holi marks the arrival of spring. People celebrate by throwing vibrant powders and water at each other, creating an unforgettable experience of joy and togetherness.
Crowds: October to January are the busiest months, especially around major holidays like Diwali and Christmas. Book accommodations and tours well in advance.
Spring (March to May)
Temperatures start rising in most parts of the country, but it’s still a good time to explore certain regions.
What to do:
Visit the hill stations in North India, like Rishikesh, where the weather remains cooler.
Experience the lush beauty of the Western Ghats in Kerala or Karnataka.
Participate in Holi celebrations in March.
Weather:
• The plains and central regions can become quite hot, with temperatures exceeding 35°C (95°F).
• Hill stations and coastal areas remain more comfortable during this time.
Summer (June to September)
India’s summer season is marked by high temperatures and the arrival of the monsoon rains.
What to do:
Head to the mountains in places like Ladakh, Spiti Valley, or Kashmir for breathtaking landscapes and cool weather.
Explore the tea plantations and misty hills of Munnar in Kerala.
Take advantage of off-season discounts in cities like Delhi or Jaipur.
Weather:
Temperatures can soar to over 40°C (104°F) in the plains, making travel uncomfortable.
Monsoon rains begin in June and bring respite from the heat, transforming the countryside into a lush green paradise.
Festivals to experience:
Onam (August/September): Celebrated in Kerala, Onam is a harvest festival with grand feasts, traditional dances, and boat races.
Crowds: Summer is less busy for travel, except in the hill stations, which see an influx of domestic tourists escaping the heat.
Monsoon (July to September)
The monsoon season blankets the country in rain, which can be both a blessing and a challenge for travellers.
What to Do:
Experience the romantic charm of Udaipur’s lakes during the rains.
Visit Kerala’s backwaters, which become even more picturesque during the monsoon.
Participate in yoga retreats, ashrams, or indoor cultural tours during the rainier days.
Weather:
Heavy rains can cause flooding and travel disruptions in certain areas, so plan your itinerary accordingly.
Humidity levels rise, especially in coastal regions.
Crowds: Monsoon is a quieter time for international tourists, offering a more serene travel experience.
Special events and busy periods
January:
- January is a fantastic time to visit India, especially for the Republic Day Parade (January 26th) in Delhi, showcasing India’s cultural and military heritage.
- Rajasthan is buzzing with festivals like the Jaipur Literature Festival and Kite Festival in Gujarat, attracting visitors from around the world.
March (Holi):
- Holi celebrations in March are a highlight for any traveller. Cities like Mathura and Vrindavan host the most iconic and vibrant Holi festivals.
October to November (Diwali):
- This festive season sees the entire country illuminated by lamps and fireworks. It’s a magical time but also extremely busy, with packed markets and transportation.
Off-Season (May to September):
- While the weather can be challenging, this is the least crowded time to visit India. You’ll find better deals on accommodations and flights, and certain regions like the Himalayas or Kerala remain pleasant.
Air quality: One aspect of traveling to India that can be challenging, especially in urban areas, is the air quality. Many cities, particularly in the north, experience high levels of air pollution due to factors like industrial emissions, vehicle exhaust, and seasonal agricultural burning.
When is air quality a concern?
Winter months (October to January): During these months, cities like Delhi often experience severe smog due to a combination of cooler temperatures, reduced wind, and the burning of crop stubble in nearby states.
Urban areas: Major cities such as Delhi, Mumbai, and Kolkata tend to have poorer air quality compared to smaller towns or rural areas.
How to stay safe and comfortable:
If you’re concerned about air quality during your trip, here are some tips:
Check air quality index (AQI): Use apps like AirVisual or government websites to monitor real-time AQI levels in your destination.
Wear a mask: Carry high-quality masks, such as N95 or N99, especially if you have respiratory sensitivities.
Plan around it: If you’re visiting northern India during winter, try to limit your time in highly polluted cities and spend more time in cleaner areas, like hill stations or coastal regions.
Stay indoors when needed: On days with extremely high pollution, limit outdoor activities and use air purifiers in your accommodation if available.
Hydrate and eat healthy: Drink plenty of water and consume antioxidant-rich foods, as these can help reduce the effects of pollution on your body.
While the air quality might not be ideal in some parts of India, planning ahead and taking precautions can help ensure a more comfortable and enjoyable experience. Rural areas, smaller towns, and regions with plenty of greenery, like Kerala or the Himalayas, tend to have significantly cleaner air.
What to pack:
Lightweight cotton clothes (for warm weather)
Layers (for cooler mornings and evenings)
Comfortable walking shoes
Sunscreen, sunglasses, hat, and a scarf to cover your shoulders
Insect repellent
Power adapter (India uses Type D and Type C plugs)
Hand sanitizer and wet wipes
N95 / N99 mask
FOODFood Culture: India’s culinary traditions are as diverse as its culture. A significant portion of the Indian population follows a vegetarian diet, largely influenced by religious and cultural practices. In fact, India has one of the highest percentages of vegetarians in the world, which is reflected in the abundance of vegetarian dishes available. However, meat dishes are also an integral part of Indian cuisine, particularly in certain regions and communities.
As tempting as it may be, I recommend avoiding street food if you want to steer clear of food poisoning.
Staple ingredients: Rice, lentils, chickpeas, wheat, spices (cumin, coriander, turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon), vegetables, and dairy products like ghee and yogurt.
Some typical foods and drinks from India include:
Thali: A traditional Indian meal served on a single platter, featuring a variety of dishes like rice, bread, curries, lentils, and desserts, offering a balanced and flavourful dining experience. It reflects the rich culinary diversity of India’s regions in one wholesome meal.
Naan: Soft, leavened flatbread baked in a tandoor oven, often served with curries. It can be plain or stuffed with ingredients like garlic, cheese, or spiced potatoes.
Samosas: Deep-fried triangular pastries stuffed with spiced potatoes, peas, and sometimes meat. They’re a beloved snack in India and abroad.
Biryani: A fragrant rice dish cooked with aromatic spices, marinated meat (often chicken or lamb), and sometimes vegetables, layered and slow-cooked to perfection.
Tandoori Dishes: A variety of meats and vegetables marinated in yogurt and spices, cooked in a tandoor (clay oven), giving them a smoky flavour. Tandoori chicken is the most iconic dish in this category.
Dosas: A South Indian specialty, these thin, crispy crepes are made from fermented rice and lentil batter. They are often stuffed with spiced potatoes and served with coconut chutney and sambar (a tangy lentil soup).
Idlis: Soft, fluffy steamed rice cakes, also from South India, typically eaten for breakfast with chutney and sambar.
Chaat: A popular street food, chaat combines crispy fried dough with tangy tamarind chutney, yogurt, spices, and toppings like chickpeas, potatoes, or pomegranate seeds.
Pani Puri: Hollow crispy puris filled with spicy tamarind water, mashed potatoes, and chickpeas. It’s an explosion of flavours in every bite.
Jalebi: A sweet treat made from deep-fried batter soaked in sugar syrup. It’s crispy on the outside and sticky-sweet inside.
Butter Chicken: A creamy and mildly spiced curry made with marinated and tandoor-cooked chicken, simmered in a rich tomato-based gravy with butter and cream. A favourite across the globe.
Gobi Adraki: A North Indian dish where cauliflower is cooked in a ginger-based gravy, offering a spicy and aromatic flavour.
Chana Masala: A popular North Indian curry made with chickpeas, tomatoes, and a blend of spices, known for its tangy and spicy taste.
Kher Sangri: A traditional Rajasthani dish made with dried berries (kher) and beans (sangri), cooked with spices for a unique, earthy flavour.
Aloo Parantha: A breakfast favourite, this stuffed flatbread is filled with spiced mashed potatoes and served with yogurt or pickles.
Chai: A traditional Indian tea made by brewing black tea leaves with milk, sugar, and various spices, creating a flavourful and aromatic beverage.
Drones: As of 2022, India has banned the import of foreign drones to encourage domestic production. This prohibition also applies to travellers bringing drones into the country for personal use.
Only specific exemptions exist for defence, security, or research purposes, and these require prior government approval. Travellers attempting to bring a drone without the necessary permissions may have it confiscated upon arrival.
If you plan to use a drone in India, consult the Directorate General of Civil Aviation (DGCA) for regulations and updates before your trip.
Stay connected: SIM cards are affordable, and data plans are very cheap in India. You can get a local SIM card from providers like Airtel or Jio with a copy of your passport and visa. Wi-Fi is also widely available in hotels and cafés. We didn’t purchase any SIM as we had a free Wi-Fi in our car rental.
TRAVEL REQUIREMENTSA 30-day double-entry e-visa costs USD 25. Apply online and allow up to 4 days for approval. You must bring a printed copy of the visa.
Before arriving in India, make sure you’ve obtained your visa. The process is straightforward but requires some preparation. On the plane, you’ll be given an entry form to fill out. Once you land, you’ll need to complete biometrics at a kiosk or the airport immigration counter. It’s a quick process, but lines can be long, so patience is key.
HOW TO GET AROUND:
It’s important to note that driving in India comes with challenges:
Speed limits: Driving faster than 100 km/h (62 mph) is generally not allowed, even on highways.
Road quality: We were surprised by some roads and they were much better than we imagined. However, there are roads that are poorly maintained, with potholes, narrow lanes, and unexpected obstacles like animals or pedestrians. This often makes the journey slower than expected.
Long travel times: Even relatively short distances can take hours due to traffic, road conditions, animals and people crossing, and slower speeds.
Left-side driving: Remember, they drive on the left side of the road, with the driver’s seat on the right.
WHY CHOOSING A REPUTABLE CAR SERVICE IS ESSENTIAL IN INDIA?
DRIVER INDIA PRIVATE TOURS
We usually rent a car and explore on our own, however, in India we decided not to risk it and chose to rent a car with a driver. Having a local driver ensures safety, convenience, and a deeper understanding of the culture and history.
Driving in India is an experience unlike any other. The traffic is chaotic, the roads are bustling with activity, and the constant honking can be overwhelming. For travellers, especially those visiting for the first time, navigating the streets can be incredibly stressful. That’s why we decided to go with a reputable car service, and it turned out to be one of the best decisions we made for our trip.
We chose Driver India Private Tours, and they exceeded all our expectations. From the moment we were picked up at the airport, we knew we were in good hands. The company had thought of every detail to ensure our comfort and safety, making our journey seamless and enjoyable.
The level of service provided by Driver India Private Tours was exceptional. The car was spacious, with plenty of legroom, making even long drives comfortable. It was equipped with Wi-Fi, which was available throughout the trip, allowing us to stay connected whenever we needed. There were charging cables with three different ports, so all our devices stayed powered up—no fighting over chargers!
The company also provided thoughtful touches like sweets, daily water bottles, wet wipes, and hand sanitizer, which made the journey even more pleasant. One feature that really impressed us was the SOS - panic button installed in the car. In the unlikely event of an emergency, pressing the button would alert the police immediately. It was a small detail, but it gave us an extra sense of security.
Local Guides: Knowledgeable and Professional
Throughout our trip, we were accompanied by local guides arranged by Driver India Private Tours, and they were excellent everywhere we went. Each guide was knowledgeable, professional, and passionate about sharing the history and culture of their region. They tailored their tours to our interests, answered all our questions, and made sure we got the most out of every stop.
Our Driver: Ajit – More Than Just a Driver
While the company’s preparation and attention to detail were outstanding, our driver, Ajit, truly brought the experience to life. He was, without a doubt, the most careful and rule-following driver we encountered in India. In a country where honking is practically a national sport, Ajit stood out as the only driver we saw who didn’t honk unnecessarily. His calm demeanour and expert driving skills made us feel safe and relaxed throughout the journey.
But Ajit was more than just a driver—he was a storyteller, a cultural ambassador, and a friend. He shared personal stories about his life and experiences, giving us a deeper understanding of Indian culture and traditions. His insights added a layer of authenticity to our trip that we couldn’t have gotten from guidebooks or tours alone.
Ajit also went above and beyond to suggest places we hadn’t planned to visit, and these turned out to be some of the best discoveries of our trip. From hidden local eateries to serene off-the-beaten-path spots, his recommendations were always spot-on. Thanks to him, we experienced a side of India that many travellers never get to see.
Instagram: @driverindiaprivatetours
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IMPORTANT THINGS TO NOTE ABOUT TRAVELING IN INDIA
SAFETY
Stay vigilant: Keep an eye on your belongings, especially in crowded areas, markets, and public transport.
Scams: Be cautious of overly friendly strangers, offers for tours, or unsolicited advice. Always book activities through trusted sources.
Transportation safety: Avoid driving yourself; hire a driver or use rideshare apps like Uber or Ola.
Women travellers: Dress modestly and avoid isolated areas after dark. Consider carrying a scarf or shawl.
Emergency numbers: Police: 100, Ambulance: 102, Women’s Helpline: 1091.
MONEY MATTERS
Cash is King: While cards are accepted in major cities and high-end establishments, many local shops, markets, and smaller businesses only accept cash.
ATMs: Widely available, but some rural areas may not have reliable access. There’s typically a withdrawal limit of ₹10,000 per transaction.
Currency: The Indian Rupee (INR) is the official currency. Carry smaller denominations for convenience.
Tipping: Common in restaurants for drivers, and hotel staff, but what I’ve noticed is that no matter what they do, they expect a tip (yes, even when letting your shoes in front of a monument, because they took care of them...)
DRESS CODE
Modesty is key: Both men and women should dress modestly, especially in rural areas and religious sites. Avoid shorts and sleeveless tops in temples or mosques.
Cover up for temples: Wear long pants or skirts, and carry a scarf to cover your head when visiting religious places.
Footwear: You’ll often need to remove your shoes before entering temples, mosques, or even some homes. Wear easily removable footwear.
OPENING TIMES & DAYS
Taj Mahal: Closed on Fridays. Plan your visit accordingly.
Temples & Mosques: Most open early (around 6–7 AM) and close around sunset. Some may close for lunch or during specific prayer times.
Markets: Open late morning (10–11 AM) and close by 8–9 PM. Closed one day a week, varying by city.
Restaurants: Dinner service often starts late (7:30–8 PM), especially in northern India.
TRANSPORTATION
Traffic rules: Speed limits are low, and roads can be chaotic. Travel times may be longer than expected due to poor road quality.
Trains: A classic way to see India, but book tickets well in advance through the Indian Railway website or trusted agents.
Auto rickshaws: Cheap and convenient for short distances. Always negotiate or insist on using the meter.
Domestic flights: Affordable and a good option for covering long distances quickly.
CULTURAL ETIQUETTE
Right hand only: Use your right hand for eating, giving, or receiving items; the left hand is considered unclean.
Respect personal space: Indians can be very hospitable, but public displays of affection are frowned upon.
Photography: Always ask permission before photographing people, especially women, or religious ceremonies.
Footwear: Remove shoes before entering temples, mosques, or private homes.
FOOD & WATER SAFETY
Avoid tap water: Drink only bottled or filtered water. Ensure the bottle seal is intact.
Street food: Enjoy the flavours, but stick to busy stalls where food is freshly prepared. Avoid raw vegetables or fruits that can’t be peeled.
Spices: Indian food is often spicy; ask for “mild” if you’re sensitive to heat.
SHOPPING & SOUVENIRS
Bargaining: A common practice in markets. Start low and negotiate to a fair price.
Best buys: Handicrafts, spices, textiles, jewellery, and Ayurvedic products.
DAY BY DAY ITINERARY
I’m excited to share my 15-day itinerary through the heart of India, where history, culture, and natural beauty converge to create an unforgettable experience. Starting in the bustling capital of Delhi, this itinerary will take you through a tapestry of iconic landmarks, ancient forts, serene landscapes, and spiritual havens. From the timeless beauty of the Taj Mahal in Agra to the wild allure of Ranthambore's tiger reserves, the artistic charm of Bundi, the valour-filled tales of Chittorgarh, and the romantic lakes of Udaipur, each day promises a new adventure. Explore the blue-hued streets of Jodhpur, the sacred vibes of Pushkar, the royal grandeur of Jaipur, and the spiritual essence of Varanasi. Along the way, you'll discover hidden gems, savour local flavours, and immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of India's diverse heritage. Let this journey unfold day by day, as you traverse the soul-stirring landscapes and timeless wonders of this incredible country through me.
DAY 1.
ARRIVAL IN DELHI
Our adventure began with a direct flight from Zurich to Delhi on Air India. Unfortunately, we faced a 1.5-hour delay sitting in the plane before take-off due to loading food and beverages onto the plane. Thankfully, the pilots managed to make up some of the lost time during the flight.
The plane itself was a bit of a disappointment. Broken seats, malfunctioning entertainment screens (apparently 80-85% weren’t working), and reading lights that refused to turn on made the journey less comfortable. To make matters worse, the cabin was uncomfortably hot, and the air conditioning didn’t seem to work properly. Many passengers, ended up ditching blankets and sitting in T-shirts to cope with the heat.
Despite the rough start, we arrived in Delhi excited to begin our journey. On the bright side, our return flight was much smoother, with a newer plane and no issues.
At the airport we were warmly greeted by our private driver, Ajit, who would be our trusted companion for the trip. He welcomed us with a smile and led us to a spacious, air-conditioned car that felt like a sanctuary after the flight experience. The car was equipped with everything we could possibly need: charging cables for all types of phones, bottled water, snacks, wet wipes, and even hand sanitizer. It was great that Driver India Private Tour had thought of every detail to make our journey comfortable.
DELHI | HEART OF INDIA
Delhi, the capital of India, is a vibrant metropolis that seamlessly blends the old and the new. With a history spanning over 2,000 years, Delhi has been a centre of power, culture, and trade for centuries. It became the capital of India in 1911, when the British shifted the capital from Kolkata (then Calcutta) to Delhi. Today, it is a bustling hub of politics, commerce, and culture, offering a unique mix of ancient monuments, modern infrastructure, and diverse traditions.
Delhi is divided into two distinct parts: Old Delhi and New Delhi. While Old Delhi is a labyrinth of narrow lanes, bustling bazaars, and Mughal-era architecture, New Delhi is a planned city with wide avenues, colonial-era buildings, and modern amenities. Together, they create a fascinating tapestry of history and modernity.
With an early morning arrival, we decided to hit the ground running and make the most of our only full day in Delhi. After all, Delhi is a city of over 23 million people, and there was so much to see!
One of the first things you’ll notice in the capital is the air quality. During our visit, the Air Quality Index (AQI) ranged between 360 and 380, which is considered hazardous. For comparison, Agra’s AQI was around 105, which is still high but significantly better.
NEW DELHI
New Delhi, designed by British architects Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker, is the political and administrative heart of India. It is known for its grand architecture, spacious roads, and lush greenery.
QUTUB MINAR
Our first destination was the iconic Qutub Minar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Delhi’s most famous landmarks.
Standing at 73 meters tall, Qutub Minar is the tallest brick minaret in the world. Built in the early 13th century by Qutb-ud-din Aibak, the founder of the Delhi Sultanate, it’s a stunning example of Indo-Islamic architecture. The intricate carvings and verses from the Quran etched into the red sandstone are mesmerizing. Surrounding the minaret are the ruins of ancient structures, including the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, which is said to be the first mosque built in India.
One of the most fascinating features is the Iron Pillar in the complex, which has stood for over 1,600 years without rusting. Scientists still can’t fully explain its corrosion-resistant properties!
Entrance fee: 600 INR
CONNAUGHT PLACE
Connaught Place, often abbreviated as CP, is one of New Delhi’s most iconic and bustling neighbourhoods. Designed by British architects in the 1930s, it is a prime commercial and cultural hub, known for its circular layout, colonial architecture, and vibrant atmosphere. The area is divided into concentric circles—Inner Circle, Middle Circle, and Outer Circle—with radial roads connecting them.
Connaught Place is a shopper’s paradise, offering everything from high-end boutiques to street markets. It’s also a food lover’s delight, with a mix of fine dining restaurants, cosy cafes, and street food stalls. Key attractions include Palika Bazaar, an underground market, Janpath Market for handicrafts, and the historic Agrasen ki Baoli stepwell. CP is not just a commercial centre but also a social and cultural hotspot, making it a must-visit in New Delhi.
LUNCH: CONNAUGHT CLUBHOUSE
After soaking in the history of Qutub Minar, our guide and Ajit took us to Connaught Clubhouse for lunch. While street food in India is legendary, we didn’t want to risk getting “Delhi belly”—a colloquial term for traveller’s diarrhea caused by unfamiliar bacteria in food or water. As tempting as the street food smelled, we decided to play it safe.
WHERE TO STAY
THE CONNAUGHT, NEW DELHI – IHCL SeleQtions
After lunch, we checked into The Connaught, a charming hotel in the heart of New Delhi. What stood out immediately was its prime location, making it easy to explore the city. The rooms were spacious and clean, with modern amenities and a cosy vibe. The staff were incredibly welcoming, and the hotel’s restaurant offered a great mix of Indian and international cuisine. It was the perfect base for our Delhi adventure.
Instagram: @theconnaught.ihclseleqtions
Book here: The Connaught, New Delhi - IHCL SeleQtions
HUMAYUN’S TOMB
Next, we visited Humayun’s Tomb, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. This stunning mausoleum is often considered a precursor to the Taj Mahal and is the first garden-tomb in India. Built in the mid-16th century for Emperor Humayun, it’s a masterpiece of Mughal architecture with its symmetrical design, lush gardens, and intricate details. The tomb is surrounded by beautiful gardens, and the peaceful atmosphere was a welcome contrast to the bustling city outside. It’s easy to see why this site inspired the design of the Taj Mahal.
Entrance fee: 600 INR
ISA KHAN'S TOMB
Isa Khan’s Tomb, located on the way to Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi, is a hidden gem of Mughal architecture. Built in 1547-48, it predates Humayun’s Tomb and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site complex. The tomb honours Isa Khan Niyazi, a nobleman in Sher Shah Suri’s court. Its octagonal design, intricate carvings, and serene garden setting showcase early Mughal craftsmanship. A visit here offers a quieter, yet equally fascinating, glimpse into India’s rich history before exploring the grandeur of Humayun’s Tomb. Don’t miss this underrated masterpiece!
Entrance fee: included in the same ticket for Humayun's Tomb / 600 INR for both
Here are some more highlights of New Delhi:
India Gate, a war memorial and iconic landmark
Rashtrapati Bhavan, the official residence of the President of India
Parliament House, an architectural marvel
Lotus Temple, a Bahá'í House of Worship known for its lotus-shaped design
Akshardham Temple, a stunning modern Hindu temple
Lodi Gardens, a serene park with historic tombs
National Museum, showcasing India’s rich cultural heritage
OLD DELHI
Old Delhi, founded by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1639, is a chaotic yet charming part of the city. It is a treasure trove of history, culture, and culinary delights.
JAMA MASJID
From the serenity of Humayun’s Tomb, we plunged into the chaos of Old Delhi. Our first stop was the Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India. After paying the entrance fee we were given slippers for 200 INR which we didn’t ask for, but we took them. Since it was raining, the caretakers also asked for a tip for covering our shoes from the rain—a common practice in India. The mosque itself is beautiful, with its vast courtyard and stunning architecture.
Entrance fee: 600 INR
CHANDNI CHOWK
From Jama Masjid, we ventured into Chandni Chowk, one of the oldest and busiest markets in Delhi. Cars aren’t allowed in some parts, so we hopped on a rickshaw for 600 INR. It was an experience like no other! You could also take Tuk Tuk aka ‘’The Indian Helicopter’’, because of their ability to weave through traffic with ease.
Chandni Chowk is a sensory overload—narrow lanes filled with shops, street vendors, and people everywhere. The air is a blend of spices, street food, and the occasional whiff of something less pleasant. It’s intense, chaotic, and utterly captivating. We took the opportunity to purchase Master Blend spices, perfect for all kinds of dishes, from A. Kumar at Chandni Chowk.
We saw cows roaming freely, a rickshaw crash (thankfully minor), and people going about their daily lives with an energy that’s hard to describe. Walking through the chaos, we felt like we will need some more time to master the art of navigating Delhi’s streets.
Here are some more highlights of Old Delhi:
Red Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and symbol of India’s independence
Raj Ghat, a memorial dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi
Spice Market (Khari Baoli), Asia’s largest wholesale spice market
Fatehpuri Masjid, a historic mosque built by Shah Jahan’s wife
Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, a significant Sikh shrine
Havelis, traditional mansions showcasing Mughal-era architecture
Street food delights, such as parathas at Paranthe Wali Gali and jalebis at Old Famous Jalebi Wala. Do this at your own risk.
By the end of the day, we felt like we’d experienced a lifetime’s worth of pollution, chaos, and adventure. Delhi is a city of contrasts—ancient monuments stand alongside modern developments, and serene gardens are just a stone’s throw from bustling markets. Despite the challenges, we loved every moment. Delhi is a city that demands your attention, and we were more than happy to give it.
DAY 2.
YAMUNA GHAT RIVER
Our second day began with an early wake-up call to head to a serene spot along the Yamuna Ghat River in Delhi for a boat tour. However, before reaching the place, we passed by a cremation site, which sent chills down my spine.
The experience was magical—gliding across the calm but extremely dirty waters with seagulls (and other river birds like cormorants and kingfishers) soaring above us. The boat tour options were affordable: 100 INR for a shared ride or 1000 INR for a private 30-minute tour. I don’t think it’s a fixed price so be ready to negotiate with the locals. The place is a hidden gem and there were zero foreigners except us. We opted for the private tour, and it was worth every rupee for the tranquillity and stunning views.
The boat tour ended on a rather unexpected note—our boatman, while trying to repark the boat, accidentally fell into the Yamuna River. It was a startling moment, especially knowing how polluted the river is, with no creatures able to survive in its waters. Thankfully, he was fine, but it added an interesting twist to our morning.
DELHI – AGRA approx. 230 km
After the boat tour, we set off for Agra, which is a 3-4 hour drive depending on traffic.
AGRA | CITY OF TAJ
Agra, a city in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, is one of the most iconic destinations in the world. Known primarily for the majestic Taj Mahal, Agra is a city steeped in history, culture, and architectural brilliance. Famous for its marble craftsmanship, Mughal-influenced cuisine, and leather goods. It’s a place where the past comes alive, and every corner tells a story. It served as the capital of the Mughal Empire during the 16th and 17th centuries under emperors like Akbar, Jahangir, and Shah Jahan. Today, Agra is a UNESCO World Heritage city, attracting millions of visitors who come to marvel at its Mughal-era monuments and experience its rich heritage.
Agra’s charm lies in its ability to transport visitors back in time to the era of the Mughals, with its grand forts, intricate tombs, and bustling bazaars. The city is divided into two distinct parts: the historic core, with its narrow lanes and Mughal landmarks, and the modern areas, which offer a glimpse of contemporary life in this ancient city.
LUNCH: THE SALT CAFÉ AGRA
We were taken for lunch at The Salt Café Agra, a charming spot with a relaxed vibe. By clear weather it has a view of Taj Mahal, but during our lunch Taj Mahal was covered in fog. I tried the Dal Tadka, which was flavourful and comforting—a perfect introduction to Agra’s culinary delights. However, this was by far not my favourite food experience in India.
WHERE TO STAY
RADISSON HOTEL AGRA
Post-lunch, we checked in at the Radisson Hotel Agra, a nice hotel that offers a perfect blend of modern amenities and warm hospitality. Staying here was nice, with its spacious rooms, rooms with Taj Mahal views, and proximity to major attractions like the Taj Mahal.
Instagram: @radissonagra
Book here: Radisson Hotel Agra
MEHTAB BAGH vs. TAJ VIEW POINT
Later in the afternoon, we headed to Mehtab Bagh, the Taj Gardens, for a breathtaking viewpoint of the Taj Mahal. The entrance fee was 300 INR, but it was worth it for the unparalleled photo opportunities and the serene ambiance. Alternatively, there’s the Taj View Point, which costs just 50 INR, but we preferred Mehtab Bagh for its well-maintained gardens and unobstructed views of the Taj Mahal, especially as the sun set and we had a glimpse of the monument glowing in the fading light.
Mehtab Bagh entrance fee: 300 INR
Taj View Point entrance fee: 50 INR
It was a day filled with contrasts—spiritual moments by the river, a taste of Agra’s rich culture, and the timeless beauty of the Taj Mahal from outside.
DAY 3.
TAJ MAHAL
Here we are at one of the Seven Wonders of the world and a Symbol of Eternal Love. The Taj Mahal was commissioned by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who passed away during childbirth. It took 22 years to complete, with over 20,000 artisans and labourers working tirelessly to bring this vision to life. The structure is entirely made of white marble, adorned with intricate inlay work (known as pietra dura), where semi-precious stones like lapis lazuli, jade, and turquoise are meticulously cut and embedded into the marble to create stunning floral and geometric patterns.
The Taj Mahal is surrounded by two other stunning structures: a mosque on the west side and a guesthouse on the east side, both made of red sandstone. The symmetry and grandeur of the entire complex are awe-inspiring.
A fascinating (and slightly gruesome) historical tidbit: it’s often said that the artisans who worked on the inlay art had their hands cut off after the completion of the Taj Mahal to ensure that such a masterpiece could never be replicated. However, this story is debated. Some historians suggest that the real reason might have been medical—artisans working with delicate gemstones and marble often suffered from infections due to cuts and injuries. Amputating their hands could have been a way to prevent the spread of infection to the rest of their bodies. While the truth remains unclear, these stories add to the mystique and drama surrounding the monument.
VISITING THE TAJ MAHAL TIPSWe arrived at 8 am and bought our tickets on the spot—there was no queue at this time, which was a huge plus. Pro tip: If you’re visiting during the foggy months (December-January), don’t rush for sunrise. We were there in January, and the fog was so thick that we had to wait until 9-10 am for clear views. Thankfully, we planned two morning visits to the Taj Mahal just in case, and it paid off. During both visits we were treated to stunning views with fewer crowds.
Closed on Fridays.
Gates: There are three gates—east, west, and south. It doesn’t matter which one you choose, as they all lead to the main entrance. However, the east gate tends to be more crowded.
Security checks: Be prepared for thorough security checks. Large bags and backpacks aren’t allowed, so travel light. You’ll receive a coin at each checkpoint, which you must keep until you exit the monument.
Inside the Taj Mahal: Photography isn’t allowed inside the main mausoleum. You’ll also need to remove your shoes and wear plastic shoe covers (the kind you see in hospitals) to protect the marble floors. You will receive those on arrival.
Entrance fee: 1,300 INR
INLAY WORKS
After our visit to the Taj Mahal, we had the opportunity to witness the incredible artistry of marble inlay work by local craftsmen. This traditional craft, known as pietra dura, involves embedding semi-precious stones like lapis lazuli, jade, and turquoise into marble to create intricate designs. Watching the entire process was fascinating—the artisans carefully cut the stones into tiny pieces, chisel out precise patterns in the marble, and then painstakingly fit the stones into the grooves. It’s a meticulous and time-consuming process, but the results are breathtaking. We even got to see how they create the famous floral motifs that adorn the Taj Mahal.
LUNCH AT BON BARBECUE AGRA
After the inlay demonstration, we were taken to Bon Barbecue Agra for lunch. This restaurant is known for its delicious Indian and international dishes. I tried their noodles with chili and garlic, which had the perfect balance of spice and flavour, and Beshin chidra, a unique dish made with lentils and spices. The meal was a delightful mix of flavours and textures, and it left us energized for the rest of the day.
BABY TAJ | TOMB OF I’TIMAD-UD-DAULAH
Next, we visited the Tomb of I'timad-ud-Daulah, affectionately known as the Baby Taj. This smaller but equally exquisite monument is often considered a precursor to the Taj Mahal. Built by Nur Jahan, the wife of Emperor Jahangir, for her father, the tomb features intricate marble inlay work and delicate lattice screens. The design is more intimate and detailed than the Taj Mahal, and it’s a great place to appreciate the evolution of Mughal architecture.
Entrance fee: 300 INR
AGRA FORT | RED FORT
Our final stop of the day was the Agra Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This massive red sandstone fort was the main residence of the Mughal emperors until the capital shifted to Delhi.
The fort is steeped in history, and one of its most fascinating stories is that of Emperor Shah Jahan, who was imprisoned here by his son, Aurangzeb. From his prison cell, Shah Jahan had a view of the Taj Mahal, the monument he built for his beloved wife. It’s a poignant reminder of the complexities of Mughal history. The fort also features beautiful Char Bagh gardens, designed in the classic Mughal style with quadrilateral layouts and water channels. The symmetry and grandeur of the gardens are a testament to the Mughals’ love for nature and architecture.
Entrance fee: 600 INR
DINNER: RADISSON AGRA
We returned to our hotel for dinner, where we enjoyed a delicious meal of Bhindi masala, a flavourful dish made with okra, onions, tomatoes, and a blend of spices. The okra was perfectly cooked—tender but not slimy—and the spices added a rich, aromatic depth to the dish. We also loved their Naan and Missi Roti, two types of Indian bread. Naan is soft and fluffy, while Missi Roti is made with chickpea flour, giving it a slightly nutty flavour.
DAY 4.
TAJ MAHAL ON REPEAT
On our fourth day, we decided to revisit the Taj Mahal, this time without a guide. We wanted to experience the magic of this iconic monument at our own pace, soak in its beauty one last time, and take more pictures without the rush of a guided tour. Walking through the majestic gates and seeing the Taj Mahal again felt just as awe-inspiring as the first time. The early morning light bathed the white marble in a soft glow, and the crowds were thinner, allowing us to fully appreciate the intricate details of the inlay work and the symmetry of the gardens. It was a peaceful and reflective experience, and we left feeling grateful to have witnessed one of the Seven Wonders of the World twice.
AGRA – FATEHPUR SIKRI – approx. 36 km
After our visit, we hit the road toward Fatehpur Sikri, the next stop on our journey. The distance between Agra and Fatehpur Sikri is approximately 36 km, and the drive took us about 1.5 hours. The route was scenic, with glimpses of rural life and small villages along the way.
FATEHPUR SIKRI | GHOST CITY
Fatehpur Sikri aka The Ghost City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a fascinating historical city. Built by the great Mughal Emperor Akbar in the late 16th century, Fatehpur Sikri served as the capital of the Mughal Empire for a brief period from 1571 to 1585. The city is a masterpiece of Mughal architecture, blending Persian, Indian, and Islamic styles, and is often referred to as a "frozen moment in history" due to its remarkably well-preserved structures.
The city was abandoned shortly after its completion, primarily due to water scarcity, but it remains a testament to Akbar’s vision and his efforts to create a city that reflected his ideals of religious tolerance and unity. Today, Fatehpur Sikri is a popular tourist destination, offering visitors a glimpse into the grandeur of the Mughal era.
THE STORY OF AKBAR, HIS WIVES, AND THE BIRTH OF HIS HEIR
One of the most intriguing stories about Fatehpur Sikri is tied to Emperor Akbar’s personal life. Akbar had multiple wives, each from different religious and cultural backgrounds, reflecting his belief in unity and harmony. His wives included:
Mariam-uz-Zamani (Jodha Bai): A Rajput princess and a Hindu, she was one of his most beloved queens.
Ruqaiya Sultan Begum: A Muslim and his first wife, she was of Mughal descent.
Maryam Makani: A Christian wife, believed to be of Armenian or Portuguese origin, who further exemplified Akbar’s commitment to religious diversity.
Salima Sultan Begum: A Muslim widow of his cousin, whom he married later.
For many years, Akbar was unable to have a child, which was a source of great distress for him. It was not until he visited the Sufi saint Sheikh Salim Chishti in Sikri that his prayers for an heir were answered. The saint prophesied that Akbar would have three sons. Soon after, Akbar’s Rajput wife, Mariam-uz-Zamani, gave birth to his first son, Jahangir, who was named after the saint. In gratitude, Akbar decided to build his new capital in Sikri, renaming it Fatehpur Sikri (City of Victory). The Tomb of Salim Chishti, located within the Jama Masjid complex, is a beautiful white marble structure where people still come to seek blessings, especially for fertility and childbirth.
THE BRACELETS FOR DONATION
At the Tomb of Salim Chishti, visitors are often offered thread bracelets (called mannat ka dhaga) as a symbol of blessings and wishes. These bracelets are tied by the caretakers, and a donation is expected in return. The bracelets are believed to bring good luck, fulfil wishes, and protect the wearer. While it’s a meaningful tradition, we chose not to participate, as we wanted to experience the site without any additional rituals.
AKBAR’S NEW RELIGION
One of the most intriguing aspects of Akbar’s reign was his attempt to create a new religion called Din-e-Ilahi (Divine Faith). This religion was based on the idea that all people are the same, regardless of their religious or cultural backgrounds. Akbar believed in the unity of humanity and sought to merge the best elements of different faiths, including Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, Jainism, and Zoroastrianism. Din-e-Ilahi emphasized moral living, kindness, and the worship of one universal God. It rejected rituals, dogma, and the idea of religious exclusivity. Instead, it promoted the idea that all religions lead to the same truth. While the religion did not gain widespread popularity and faded after Akbar’s death, it remains a remarkable example of his forward-thinking approach to unity and harmony.
INTERESTING FACTS:
Architectural marvels: The city features stunning red sandstone buildings, including the Buland Darwaza (Gate of Magnificence), the Jama Masjid, and the Tomb of Salim Chishti, a revered Sufi saint.
The Royal Harem: Fatehpur Sikri also includes the Panch Mahal, a five-story palace used by the royal women, and the Hiran Minar, a tower adorned with elephant tusks.
We spent a few hours exploring the site, marvelling at the intricate carvings and the grandeur of the structures.
Entrance fee: 650 INR
FATEHPUR SIKRI – RANTHAMBORE NATIONAL PARK – approx. 275 km
We hit the road toward Ranthambore, our next destination. Along the way, we passed by the Keoladeo National Park, a renowned bird sanctuary, and Balaji, a site known for exorcism rituals. We watched some crazy videos about exorcism at Balaji. While we didn’t stop at these places, we did see locals brushing their teeth with neem tree twigs—a traditional practice in India known for its antibacterial properties.
We also spotted jugaad vehicles—improvised, self-made vehicles that are a common sight in rural India. These creative contraptions are a testament to Indian ingenuity.
CHAND BAORI
Before reaching Ranthambore, we made a short detour to Chand Baori, the largest stepwell in Northern India, located in Abhaneri. Built in the 9th century by King Chanda of the Nikumbh dynasty, this architectural marvel features 3,500 narrow steps arranged in perfect symmetry, descending 13 stories deep into the ground, creating a mesmerizing geometric pattern. Designed to conserve water in the arid region, it also served as a gathering place for locals and a site for religious rituals, situated next to the Harshat Mata Temple. The stepwell’s intricate carvings, pavilions, and cooling temperatures made it a functional and artistic masterpiece. Its dramatic appearance has earned it fame in pop culture, featuring in films like The Dark Knight Rises. A visit to Chand Baori offers a glimpse into ancient India’s ingenuity and cultural heritage.
Entrance fee: 300 INR ; online discount = 250 INR
RANTHAMBORE
Ranthambore, located in the Sawai Madhopur district of Rajasthan, is one of India’s most famous national parks and a premier destination for wildlife enthusiasts. Known for its thriving population of Bengal tigers, Ranthambore offers a unique blend of wildlife, history, and natural beauty. The park is named after the historic Ranthambore Fort, which stands majestically within its boundaries, adding a touch of historical grandeur to the wilderness.
Established as a wildlife sanctuary in 1955 and later declared a national park in 1980, Ranthambore became a key part of Project Tiger, a conservation initiative aimed at protecting India’s dwindling tiger population. Today, it is one of the best places in the world to spot tigers in their natural habitat. The park’s diverse landscape, which includes dense forests, open grasslands, and serene lakes, makes it a haven for not only tigers but also a wide variety of flora and fauna.
WHAT TO SEE IN RANTHAMBORE 
Ranthambore National Park is a treasure trove of biodiversity, offering visitors the chance to witness some of India’s most iconic wildlife.
Here’s what you can explore:
Bengal tigers, the star attraction of Ranthambore, often spotted during safari tours
Ranthambore Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a historic landmark within the park
Lakes and water bodies, such as Padam Talao, Malik Talao, and Raj Bagh Talao, which attract a variety of wildlife
Leopards, sloth bears, and hyenas, among the park’s other predators
Sambar deer, spotted deer, and nilgai, commonly seen grazing in the grasslands
Over 300 species of birds, including peacocks, kingfishers, and the majestic crested serpent eagle
Ancient temples and ruins, scattered across the park, adding a historical charm to the wilderness.
Ranthambore is more than just a wildlife destination; it’s an experience that stays with you long after you leave. Whether you’re tracking tigers on a safari, exploring the ancient fort, or simply soaking in the natural beauty, Ranthambore offers a perfect escape into the wild. It’s a place where nature and history coexist, creating a truly unforgettable adventure.
WHERE TO STAY
KHEM VILLAS
We arrived at Khem Villas, a peaceful retreat surrounded by India’s untamed wilderness, and our home for the next three nights, just in time for dinner. This eco-friendly lodge offers a range of accommodations, from luxury tents to cottage villas. We stayed in both the Cottage Villa and the Private Luxury Lodge, and both were incredibly comfortable, with bathtubs, jacuzzi, and the soothing sounds of wildlife.
We were warmly welcomed with the application of a tilak – a sacred mark on the forehead, often made with sandalwood paste, kumkum (vermilion), or turmeric. It symbolizes blessings, protection, and good fortune. It is placed on the ajna chakra (the "third eye") between the eyebrows, which is believed to be the centre of wisdom and intuition. This gesture is a sign of respect and hospitality, welcoming guests with positive energy and warmth. We experienced this beautiful tradition at almost every accommodation, a reminder of India's rich cultural heritage and the importance of spiritual well-being.
The food at Khem Villas was exceptional—fresh, vegetarian, and cooked with care. As a vegan, I was well catered to. The staff were warm and attentive, and the property itself was serene, with bonfire nights and early morning activities. However, it’s important to note that Khem Villas does not organize or book safaris for guests. Safari bookings for Ranthambore National Park are managed exclusively by the government website, and you’ll need to book your slots in advance. Khem Villas can guide you on the process, but they cannot book for you.
Despite this, the lodge provides everything you need for a comfortable safari experience, including blankets, bottles of water, and a light breakfast for your early morning rides. The staff are incredibly helpful and ensure you’re well-prepared for your adventure.
Khem Villas also has a lovely on-site shop where we bought high-quality, reasonably priced items like t-shirts, hoodies, and even a tailored shirt for Nico. The place truly has a heart, and I can’t recommend it enough.
Instagram: @khemvillas
Book here: Ranthambhore | Khem Villas | Nature Camp
AN ADRENALINE RUSH
Our adventure began the night we arrived at Khem Villas. After a lovely dinner, we headed back to our Cottage Villa, unaware of the excitement that awaited us. As I was closing the outside door of the yard, my husband suddenly froze, his eyes locked on the bushes in front of our villa. He was fumbling to open the door while visibly shaken. I, not aware of the situation, made quite a bit of noise, but he didn’t want to scream and risk startling me—or the wild creature lurking nearby.
At first, I thought he was exaggerating, but his panic was genuine. He later described seeing a leopard or possibly a rusty-spotted cat, one of the smallest wild cats in the world. We had a torch, but this experience taught us a valuable lesson: always take the hotel staff with torches when walking to your villa at night (which we didn’t apply during the following evenings as well).
We learned that animals in the wild are usually as wary of us as we are of them. They rarely attack without provocation. While there are also crocodiles in the area, they don’t venture near the villas, which was a relief. Still, this encounter was a reminder to always stay alert in the dark.
DAY 5.
RANTHAMBORE SAFARIS: THE QUEST FOR THE ROYAL BENGAL TIGER
Let’s be clear here—nothing can beat an African safari in terms of wildlife diversity, game drive organization and abundance. However, if you want to see a tiger in the wild, you have to head to Asia, as tigers are native to this continent. Specifically, India is one of the best places to spot the majestic Royal Bengal Tiger, and Ranthambore National Park is one of the most famous tiger reserves in the country.
We did 4 safaris in Ranthambore in the hope of spotting a tiger, as we had never seen one in the wild before. The park offers two safaris per day—one in the morning and one in the afternoon. The morning safaris start around 6:30 am (depending on the season), while the afternoon safaris begin around 2:30 pm.
You can choose between different types of vehicles:
Gypsy: An open jeep that seats up to 6 people. It’s ideal for smaller groups and offers a more intimate experience.
Canter: A larger open vehicle that seats around 20 people. It’s more budget-friendly but less flexible than a Gypsy.
Private Gypsy: If you want exclusivity, you can book an entire Gypsy for your group. The prices vary depending on the vehicle and whether you’re a foreigner or an Indian national.
For foreigners, a Gypsy safari costs around 2,000-2,500 INR per person, while a Canter safari is about 1,200-1,500 INR.
Booking is done exclusively through the official government website (please, have in mind that there are many fake websites), and I highly recommend booking at least 3 months in advance to secure your preferred zone and vehicle.
THE ORGANIZATION: A BIT OF DISASTER
Let me be honest—the organization of the safaris is chaotic and nothing like the seamless experiences we’ve had in Africa. Very bad point for the safaris organization is that you will be informed about your pick up point on the day of the safari unless you booked a private one – then you will be picked up from your accommodation. The system is bureaucratic, and the guides and drivers can be hit or miss in terms of enthusiasm and effort.
Expect delays, confusion, and a lack of clear communication. Additionally, don’t expect to see a wide variety of animals. However, if you manage to spot a tiger, all the hassle will feel worth it.
WHAT TO EXPECT IN TERMS OF WILDLIFE
Don’t expect to see a wide variety of animals like in Africa. Ranthambore is primarily about tigers, and while there are other animals, they are fewer in number.
Commonly spotted species include:
Deer: Spotted deer, sambar deer, and nilgai (blue bull).
Monkeys: The park is home to Hanuman langurs and rhesus macaques.
Birds: Peacocks, kingfishers, owls, and various water birds.
Sloth bears: Rare but occasionally seen.
Leopards: While Ranthambore does have leopards, they are extremely elusive and rarely spotted.
TIGERS OF RANTHAMBORE: THE ROYAL BENGAL TIGERS
Tigers are the apex predators here, and their presence keeps other animals like leopards in check. In some parts of India, where tigers have been killed by humans, leopards have thrived, but this disrupts the ecosystem. It’s a reminder of how important it is to protect these majestic creatures and maintain the balance of nature.
Why “Royal Bengal Tiger”? The term “Royal Bengal Tiger” refers to the Bengal tiger subspecies found in India, Bangladesh, Nepal, and Bhutan. The “royal” title is often used to emphasize their majestic appearance and regal demeanour.
BEHAVIOUR AND HABITS:
Activity: Tigers are primarily nocturnal but can be active during the day, especially in the cooler hours of early morning and late afternoon.
Hunting: They hunt every 4–5 days, consuming up to 40 kg of meat in one meal. Their diet includes deer, wild boar, and occasionally smaller animals like monkeys or birds.
Territory: Male tigers have large territories, often overlapping with several females. They mark their territory with scent and scratch markings, and vocalizations.
REPRODUCTION:
Mating Season: Tigers can mate year-round, but peak activity is often during the cooler months (November to April).
Cubs: Females give birth to 2–4 cubs after a gestation period of about 3.5 months. Cubs stay with their mother for 2–3 years before venturing out on their own.
ADAPTABILITY: The tigers of Ranthambore have adapted to the park’s diverse terrain, which includes lakes, hills, and dense forests. They are excellent swimmers and often cool off in the park’s water bodies.
CONSERVATION:
Once on the brink of extinction, tigers in Ranthambore have made a remarkable comeback thanks to conservation efforts. However, habitat loss and poaching remain significant threats. Human-Tiger Conflict: Occasionally, tigers venture into nearby villages, especially if there’s a shortage of prey in the park. While this can lead to conflicts, the park authorities work closely with local communities to ensure the safety of both humans and tigers.
SAFARI TIPS AND DRESS CODE:
Passport: Don’t forget your passport! It’s required for booking and entry.
Clothing: Wear neutral colours like beige, green, or brown to blend in with the environment. Avoid bright colours and strong perfumes.
Behaviour: Stay silent, don’t eat or feed the animals, and follow your guide’s instructions.
Blankets: Mornings in Ranthambore are freezing, so take the blankets provided by your accommodation.
MORNING CANTER SAFARI IN ZONE 6
We started our first safari in Zone 6, a less popular area due to its sparse wildlife. Despite the early wake-up call, the sunrise was breathtaking. Khem Villas provided blankets and water bottles, which were a lifesaver in the chilly morning. We spotted antelopes, spotted deer (chital), sambar deer, and plenty of peacocks. During a quick toilet break, we encountered black-faced langur monkeys, notorious for stealing food. Bird enthusiasts would enjoy sightings of kingfishers, parakeets, and eagles.
Unfortunately, our guide and driver seemed disinterested, rushing through the safari. We later heard that a tiger was spotted in Zone 6 that morning, but we missed it due to their haste.
After the game drive we returned back to Khem Villas for lunch and quick refresh before the second safari adventure in Zone 8.
AFTERNOON GYPSY SAFARI IN ZONE 8
Zone 8 was a stark contrast—uphill, densely forested, and challenging to navigate. This was the only safari we did in a Gypsy, and it turned out to be a wet and wild experience. The rain poured relentlessly, soaking us to the bone. The roofs of the Gypsy vehicles are always open, so there’s no protection from the elements. Despite the discomfort, we were thrilled to spot a sloth bear, a rare sighting and the highlight of the day. Still, no tiger, and we returned to the pickup point much earlier than expected. Due to the lack of mobile reception, we had to wait for our driver, shivering in the rain.
The evening was a welcome respite from the day’s chaos. My husband surprised me with a romantic bath in our villa, complete with candles and rose petals. It was the perfect way to unwind after a long, disappointing day because of the lack of tiger encounters.
DAY 6.
THE DREAM COMES TRUE – TIGER SPOTTING!
We woke up to heavy rain and feared our safaris might be cancelled. Many visitors decided to skip the day, but we were determined to go, rain or shine. After all, seeing a tiger in the wild was one of our bucket list experiences.
MORNING CANTER SAFARI IN ZONE 3
Luckily, the rain subsided, and we headed to Zone 3, one of the best zones in Ranthambore. It’s known for its open areas, lakes, and higher chances of tiger sightings. We travelled in a Canter, as all the Gypsies were booked.
And then it happened—we spotted a male tiger, aged 18-19 months. He wasn’t too close, but we could see him clearly. The excitement was unreal! Our guide was fantastic, sharing interesting facts about the tigers and their behaviour. Afterward, we explored the lakes and saw crocodiles in the water.
Thrilled by our successful encounter, we headed for lunch with high spirits, hopeful that the afternoon would be just as rewarding, despite some roads still being closed and quite wet from the morning’s heavy rain.
AFTERNOON CANTER SAFARI FROM ZONE 1 TO ZONE 3
For our final safari, we were initially assigned to Zone 1, but due to heavy rainfall, the route was closed, and we were redirected to Zone 3 again. And oh my goodness—this time, we hit the jackpot!
We saw three tigers—two males and one female—playing, yawning, and walking near our vehicle. They were so close that we could see every detail of their majestic stripes. The female teased her brothers, and they rolled around in the grass, completely unbothered by our presence. It was a surreal experience, and I was so overwhelmed with joy that I could barely hold my camera steady.
We ended the day celebrating our incredible experiences around the bonfire at Khem Villas, savouring our final dinner in this wildlife paradise.
DAY 7.
Our seventh day was a perfect blend of adventure, history, and relaxation. We left Khem Villas early in the morning, knowing we had a long drive ahead of us. Our final destination was the enchanting city of Udaipur, but the journey itself (thanks to our driver Ajit) was filled with unforgettable stops that took us off the beaten path.
RANTHAMBORE – BUNDI – approx. 132 km
BUNDI | CITY OF STEPWELLS
Nestled in the Hadoti region of Rajasthan, Bundi is a charming town often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours like Jaipur and Udaipur. However, this hidden gem is a treasure trove of history, art, and natural beauty. Known for its stunning stepwells (baoris), intricate murals, and majestic forts, Bundi offers a serene and offbeat experience for travellers seeking to explore Rajasthan’s lesser-known wonders.
Bundi was once the capital of a princely state ruled by the Hada Chauhans, a branch of the Chauhan dynasty. The town’s rich history is reflected in its architecture, which blends Rajput and Mughal styles. Surrounded by the Aravalli Hills and dotted with lakes, Bundi is also known for its picturesque landscapes and tranquil ambiance.
BUNDI FORT PALACE
Our first stop was the mesmerizing Bundi Fort Palace, a hidden gem that felt like a step back in time. What made this experience truly magical was that we had the entire palace to ourselves! It was surreal to explore the intricate architecture, stunning murals, and ancient corridors without another soul in sight.
Bundi Palace is a masterpiece of Rajput-style architecture, with its beautiful frescoes and intricate carvings depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. The fort, perched on a hill, offers breathtaking views of the town and the surrounding landscape. It’s said that Rudyard Kipling was so inspired by Bundi that he wrote parts of Kim here.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Bundi Palace is its Chitrashala, or the Gallery of Art. This section of the palace is adorned with stunning murals that showcase the artistic brilliance of the Rajput era. The paintings depict scenes from the life of Lord Krishna, as well as royal processions and courtly life. The colours have remained vibrant over the centuries, a testament to the skill of the artists who created them.
The fort also houses several step wells, or baoris, which were used to store water. The most famous of these is the Rani Ji Ki Baori, a massive stepwell with intricate carvings and a serene atmosphere. Bundi is often referred to as the “City of Stepwells”.
Entrance fee: 600 INR
MENAL SHIV MANDIR TEMPLE AND WATERFALL
Next, we visited the Menal Shiv Mandir Temple, a serene and spiritually significant site. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is surrounded by lush greenery and a tranquil atmosphere. Adjacent to the temple is the Menal Waterfall, a picturesque spot where locals often bathe in the sacred waters. During our visit, the waterfall a bit dry due to the season, but it was still a beautiful sight.
The waterfall is believed to have healing properties, and many pilgrims visit to cleanse themselves spiritually. Nearby, you can find ancient Kama Sutra carvings on the rocks, which are a fascinating glimpse into India’s rich cultural and artistic history. The carvings depict various aspects of love and relationships, and their presence in such a serene and spiritual setting adds an intriguing layer to the experience.
No entrance fee
WHY KAMA SUTRA ON TEMPLE GROUNDS?
The Kama Sutra is one of those topics that often sparks curiosity and intrigue, and I was no exception. I couldn’t help but ask more about what they meant and why they were placed on temple grounds. The Kama Sutra is often misunderstood in popular culture as simply a manual on physical intimacy. While it does include aspects of romantic and sensual relationships, its true meaning is much broader and more profound.
The term "Kama Sutra" is derived from two Sanskrit words: "Kama" and "Sutra."- Kama (काम): This word translates to "desire," "pleasure," or "love." In the context of the Kama Sutra, it specifically relates to sensual pleasure and the pursuit of love and intimacy.- Sutra (सूत्र): This word means "thread" or "line," and in this context, it refers to a set of aphorisms or guidelines.
Thus, "Kama Sutra" can be translated as "Aphorisms on Love" or "Threads of Desire." The Kama Sutra is an ancient Indian text written by the philosopher Vātsyāyana around the 3rd century CE, and it covers various aspects of love, relationships, and sexuality, along with advice on social conduct and the art of living well. It is often mistakenly seen merely as a manual for sexual positions, but its content is much broader, encompassing the philosophy and practice of love and relationships.
In ancient Indian philosophy, life is divided into four main goals, known as the Purusharthas:
Dharma (duty and righteousness)
Artha (wealth and prosperity)
Kama (desire and pleasure)
Moksha (liberation and spiritual freedom)
Now, why are these carvings found on temples? Temples in India are not just places of worship; they are also centres of art, culture, and education. The carvings on temple walls often depict various aspects of life, including the divine, the human, and the natural world. The inclusion of Kama Sutra carvings reflects the idea that spirituality and sensuality are not separate but interconnected.
In ancient times, temples were places where people learned about all aspects of life, including the importance of balance and harmony. The Kama Sutra carvings served as a reminder that desire and pleasure, when approached with respect and mindfulness, are part of a holistic and meaningful life. They were not meant to be provocative but rather to celebrate the beauty of human relationships and the divine energy that flows through all creation.
The carvings were also a way to educate people about the different dimensions of love and relationships. In a society where these topics were often discussed openly and without shame, the carvings were a form of artistic expression and cultural storytelling.
CHITTORGARH FORT
One of the highlights of the day was our visit to the legendary Chittorgarh Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest forts in India. The fort is a symbol of Rajput pride, valour, and sacrifice, with a history dating back to the 7th century.
Chittorgarh Fort has witnessed some of the most dramatic events in Indian history. It was the capital of the Mewar Kingdom and served as a stronghold for the Rajputs for centuries. The fort has survived three major sieges, each marked by tales of bravery, sacrifice, and tragedy. The most famous of these was the siege by Alauddin Khilji in 1303, who attacked the fort to capture Rani Padmini, the queen of Chittorgarh. Legend has it that Rani Padmini and the women of the fort committed jauhar (self-immolation) to protect their honour rather than surrender to the enemy.
The fort is a treasure trove of palaces, temples, towers, and reservoirs. The Vijay Stambh (Tower of Victory), built by Rana Kumbha in 1448, is a nine-story tower adorned with intricate carvings of Hindu deities and scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The Kirti Stambh (Tower of Fame), dedicated to the first Jain Tirthankara, Adinath, is another striking structure. The Rana Kumbha Palace, believed to be the site where Rani Padmini performed jauhar, and the Padmini Palace, located near a lotus pond, are other key attractions within the fort.
The fort also houses several temples, including the Meera Temple, dedicated to the famous devotee of Lord Krishna, Meera Bai, and the Kalika Mata Temple, an ancient structure dedicated to Goddess Kali. The Gaumukh Reservoir, a sacred water tank fed by a spring that emerges from a rock shaped like a cow’s mouth, is another fascinating feature of the fort.
Entrance fee: 600 INR
WHERE TO STAY
AURIKA UDAIPUR
After a day filled with exploration and discovery, we finally arrived in Udaipur, the "City of Lakes." This would be our home for the next two nights, and we couldn’t have been more excited.
We checked into the luxurious Aurika Udaipur, a stunning property that offered the perfect blend of modern comfort and traditional elegance. We stayed in the Aurika Suite, which came with a private pool overlooking the breathtaking landscape. The suite was spacious, beautifully designed, and offered complete privacy.
The hotel staff drove us to our room in a golf cart, adding a touch of fun to the experience. We enjoyed a private lunch at Paheli Bagh, a serene spot with stunning views. The dinners were exquisite, with a mix of local and international cuisines. One morning, we had an amazing breakfast by our pool, which was a truly indulgent experience.
We were treated to the Abhyanga couple massage, a traditional Ayurvedic treatment that left us feeling relaxed and rejuvenated. In the evening, we watched an Indian cultural show featuring traditional dances and music. One of the performers balanced multiple pots (ghargras; matkas) on her head while dancing and turning gracefully, leaving us mesmerized. The musicians played traditional instruments, adding to the magical atmosphere.
The service at Aurika Udaipur was impeccable, and the amenities were top-notch. From the luxurious room to the cultural experiences, every detail was thoughtfully curated to make our stay unforgettable.
Instagram: @aurikahotels
DAY 8.
UDAIPUR | THE CITY OF LAKES | VENICE OF THE EAST
Nestled in the heart of Rajasthan, Udaipur is a city that effortlessly blends history, culture, and natural beauty. Known as the "City of Lakes" or the "Venice of the East," Udaipur is a mesmerizing destination that captures the essence of royal India. With its shimmering lakes, majestic palaces, and vibrant bazaars, Udaipur is a dream for travellers seeking a mix of relaxation and exploration.
Founded in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II, Udaipur was established as the new capital of the Mewar kingdom after the fall of Chittorgarh. The city was strategically built around Lake Pichola, providing natural protection and a serene environment. Over the centuries, Udaipur has retained its regal charm, with its palaces, temples, and havelis standing as testaments to its glorious past.
AURIKA UDAIPUR
The day started with a lovely in-room breakfast at Aurika Udaipur by the pool, enjoying the serene views and the luxurious ambiance of the hotel. After breakfast, we indulged in a relaxing Abhyanga couple massage, which was incredibly rejuvenating and set the tone for the day. Following the massage, we had a private lunch at Paheli Bagh, the hotel's beautiful restaurant, where the staff treated us with exceptional warmth and hospitality, making the experience truly memorable.
After lunch, our driver Ajit picked us up to meet our guide for the day, and we headed straight to the iconic City Palace.
THE CITY PALACE
The City Palace is a magnificent architectural marvel that stands proudly on the banks of Lake Pichola, showcasing a blend of Rajasthani and Mughal styles. Built over nearly 400 years, starting in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II, the palace complex is a sprawling structure with courtyards, terraces, corridors, and rooms adorned with intricate mirror work, marble, and murals. One of the most fascinating parts of the palace is the Mor Chowk (Peacock Courtyard), known for its stunning peacock mosaics made from thousands of pieces of coloured glass. The Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) is another highlight, with its walls and ceilings covered in tiny mirrors that create a dazzling effect. The palace also houses a museum with an impressive collection of royal artifacts, including weapons, paintings, and costumes. The Zenana Mahal (Queen’s Quarters) offers a glimpse into the lives of the royal women, with its private chambers and balconies overlooking the city. The City Palace is not just a historical site but a living testament to Udaipur’s royal legacy, and every corner tells a story of grandeur and opulence.
Entrance fee: 300 INR
MINIATURE PAINTINGS
After exploring the palace, we took a leisurely stroll through the city, where we visited local artisans specializing in Udaipur’s famous miniature paintings. These paintings are a traditional art form that dates back to the 16th century, originating under the patronage of the Mewar rulers. The artists use natural pigments, gold leaf, and fine brushes made from squirrel hair to create intricate and detailed works of art (they assured us that no squirrels were harmed). The themes often include scenes from Hindu mythology, royal processions, and nature, with each painting telling a story through its vibrant colours and delicate brushstrokes. Watching the artists at work was a mesmerizing experience.
LAKE PICHOLA – BOAT RIDE
After immersing ourselves in the art, we headed to Lake Pichola for a boat ride. The boat ride costs 360 INR for a standard boat or 720 INR for a luxury boat for foreigners. As we glided across the tranquil waters, we were treated to stunning views of the City Palace, the Lake Palace (now a luxury hotel), and the Jag Mandir, another beautiful island palace. A tip for the boat ride: sit on the right side of the boat for the best views of the City Palace, especially during sunset when the golden light reflects off its walls. Unfortunately, we were supposed to get another boat and to visit an island which was closed due to a wedding, but the boat ride itself was a magical experience, offering a unique perspective of Udaipur’s beauty.
AN INDIAN WEDDING
On the way, we were fortunate enough to witness one of the most vibrant and culturally rich experiences the country has to offer—a traditional Indian wedding. It was a scene straight out of a Bollywood film: the groom, dressed in regal attire, seated atop a beautifully decorated horse, surrounded by a lively procession of family and friends. The streets were alive with the rhythmic beats of drums, the melodies of traditional music, and the infectious energy of celebration.
In India, weddings are not just a single-day event but a series of rituals and festivities that often span three to five days, depending on the region and family traditions. From the mehndi ceremony, where intricate henna designs are applied to the bride’s hands and feet, to the sangeet, a night of music and dance, and finally the main wedding ceremony, every moment is steeped in tradition and meaning. The groom’s arrival on a horse, known as baraat is symbolising his journey to the wedding venue.
Curious, we stopped to watch, and to our surprise, the wedding party invited us to join! Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay.
If you ever find yourself in India during the wedding season (typically from late October to early March), keep an eye out for these joyous processions. We were lucky enough to see many weddings during our 15-day trip. You might just stumble upon a celebration that offers a glimpse into the heart and soul of Indian culture. And who knows? You might even be invited to join in the festivities!
WHAT ELSE TO VISIT IN UDAIPUR:
Jagdish Temple: Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, this 17th-century temple is a fine example of Indo-Aryan architecture. The intricately carved pillars, walls, and ceilings showcase the craftsmanship of the era. The temple is a peaceful retreat for spiritual seekers and history enthusiasts alike.
Saheliyon-ki-Bari: Translating to the "Garden of the Maidens," this lush garden was built for the royal ladies to relax and enjoy. With its fountains, lotus pools, and marble pavilions, Saheliyon-ki-Bari is a serene escape from the bustling city.- Monsoon Palace (Sajjangarh Palace): Located on a hilltop, the Monsoon Palace offers panoramic views of Udaipur and its lakes. Built as a retreat for the royal family during the monsoon, this palace is a perfect spot to watch the sunset and soak in the city's beauty.
Fateh Sagar Lake: Another gem in Udaipur's crown, Fateh Sagar Lake is a tranquil spot surrounded by the Aravalli Hills. The lake is a popular spot for boating, and the nearby Nehru Garden adds to its charm.
CULTURAL SHOW AND TRADITIONAL DINNER AT AURIKA UDAIPUR
The day was absolutely beautiful, and Udaipur completely won our hearts with its charm, history, and vibrant culture. We finished the day with a lovely evening back at our hotel, starting with some refreshing drinks by the pool as the sun set, casting a golden glow over the water. As we relaxed, we were treated to a captivating cultural show that showcased the rich traditions of Rajasthan.
Musicians played traditional instruments like the sarangi, a stringed instrument, the dholak, a double-headed drum, and the morchang, a Rajasthani jaw harp, creating a mesmerizing rhythm that set the stage for the performances. The highlight of the show was the Ghoomar dance, performed by women in colourful traditional attire, gracefully twirling and swaying to the music.
Another impressive act was the Bhavai dance, where the lady balanced multiple matkas, or pots, on her head while dancing and spinning effortlessly, a display of skill and precision that left us in awe. The energy and artistry of the performers were truly unforgettable. At the end of the show, I couldn’t resist joining in and participated in the dance, trying my best to keep up with the graceful movements and twirls.
After the show, we enjoyed a traditional Rajasthani Thali for dinner, which was a feast for the senses. Every bite was bursting with flavour, and the meal was a perfect end to an incredible day.
DAY 9.
UDAIPUR – JODHPUR – approx. 244 km
The next day, we set off early from Udaipur towards Jodhpur, and the drive was filled with fascinating stops that made the journey as memorable as the destination.
RANAKPUR JAIN TEMPLE
Our first stop was the breathtaking Ranakpur Jain Temple, located about 90 km from Udaipur. This architectural masterpiece is one of the largest and most important Jain temples in India, dedicated to Tirthankara Adinatha. The temple is renowned for its intricate marble carvings and stunning design, featuring 1,444 uniquely carved pillars, each with its own pattern. The temple’s serene ambiance and symmetrical architecture symbolize the Jain concept of the universe, making it a place of deep spiritual significance.
Entrance fee: 200 INR per person
Camera/phone fee: 100 INR per device
Note that:
Shoes are not allowed inside the temple complex, as is customary in all Jain and Hindu temples.
Women are required to cover their heads with a scarf inside the temple as a sign of respect – you will receive one there with no further charge.
The Sheth Anandji Kalyanji Ranakpur Jain Temple is a must-visit for its spiritual and architectural grandeur. Jainism, one of the oldest religions in India, emphasizes non-violence (ahimsa), truth, and asceticism. Jains believe in the liberation of the soul through right conduct, knowledge, and meditation. The temple’s peaceful environment and intricate craftsmanship reflect these principles beautifully.
WATER-LIFTING SYSTEM
After Ranakpur, we stopped to see a traditional water-lifting system powered by bulls, known as the Persian wheel or Rehat. This ancient irrigation method is still used in rural India. Bulls or oxen walk in circles to rotate a central wheel, which lifts water from a well using a series of buckets attached to a rope or chain. The water is then channelled into fields or storage tanks. This sustainable and eco-friendly system is a testament to the ingenuity of traditional Indian farming practices and offers a glimpse into rural life.
JAIN TEMPLE IN PALI - BALI
Our next stop was a Jain temple in Pali, a serene and spiritually significant site dedicated to the principles of non-violence and simplicity central to Jainism. The temple, though under renovation during our visit, exuded a calming aura, with its peaceful ambiance and glimpses of intricate architecture. As a mark of respect for Jain beliefs, visitors are not allowed to carry leather goods, such as belts or bags, inside the temple.
No entrance fee
PALI SUMERPUR
Further along the route, we visited Pali Sumerpur, where we saw the lovely Lotus Temple. This unique temple is shaped like a lotus flower and is a symbol of peace and unity. While there, a local man demonstrated how to tie a traditional Rajasthani turban, or pagri. He explained that turbans come in different colours, lengths, and styles, each representing the wearer’s caste, region, and even occasion. For example, saffron turbans are often worn during festivals, while white turbans are common for everyday wear. The length of the turban cloth can range from 6 to 9 meters, and tying it is an art form that requires skill and practice. It was fascinating to learn how this simple piece of fabric carries so much cultural significance.
OM BANNA TEMPLE
We also made a quick stop at the Om Banna Temple, also known as the Bullet Baba Temple. This unusual temple is dedicated to a motorcycle, specifically a Royal Enfield Bullet. The story goes that in the 1980s, a man named Om Singh Rathore died in a motorcycle accident near this spot. His bike was taken to the police station, but it mysteriously returned to the accident site multiple times. Locals believed it was a divine miracle, and the bike became an object of worship. Today, the temple is a popular roadside shrine where travellers stop to seek blessings for a safe journey. While it’s not a must-visit, the story behind it is intriguing.
No entrance fee
JODHPUR
WHERE TO STAY
RAAS JODHPUR
Finally, we arrived in Jodhpur, the Blue City, and checked into the stunning RAAS Jodhpur. This boutique hotel is a perfect blend of heritage and modernity, offering breathtaking views of the Mehrangarh Fort from its rooms and rooftop. The rooms are beautifully designed, with large windows that frame the fort like a painting. The pool area is a tranquil oasis, and the rooftop restaurants, offer delicious food with panoramic views of the city. We also tried their newly opened Stepwell Café, located just outside the property. The café overlooks a beautifully lit stepwell and Mehrangarh Fort, which adds a magical touch to the evening. The combination of the historic stepwell, the twinkling lights, and the fort in the background made for an unforgettable dining experience.
RAAS Jodhpur is more than just a hotel; it’s an experience that immerses you in the charm and history of Jodhpur. Whether you’re relaxing by the pool, enjoying a meal with a view, or exploring the stepwell, every moment here feels special.
Instagram: @raashotels
DAY 10.
JODHPUR | BLUE CITY | SUN CITY
Jodhpur, the second-largest city in Rajasthan, is a captivating blend of history, culture, and vibrant traditions. Known as the "Blue City" for its iconic blue-painted houses around the Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur is a gateway to the Thar Desert and a treasure trove of architectural marvels, bustling bazaars, and rich heritage. Founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, a Rajput chief, the city served as the capital of the Marwar region and remains a cultural hub of Rajasthan.
Jodhpur’s strategic location on the ancient trade routes made it a flourishing centre for trade in spices, silk, and opium. Today, it is a popular tourist destination, offering visitors a glimpse into Rajasthan’s royal past, vibrant culture, and stunning landscapes. From its towering forts to its colourful markets, Jodhpur is a city that enchants and inspires.
TOORJI KA JHAIRA STEPWELL
The day began with an early morning visit to the Toorji Ka Jhalra Stepwell, one of Jodhpur’s hidden gems. The stepwell, built in the 18th century, is a stunning example of traditional Rajasthani architecture. As we arrived, the place was incredibly peaceful, with the soft glow of the sunrise casting a golden light over the intricate carvings and steps. The sound of birds chirping added to the serene atmosphere, making it a perfect start to the day. Stepwells, or baoris, were historically used as water storage systems and community gathering spots. Toorji Ka Jhalra is particularly famous for its detailed carvings of elephants and nagin (serpent) motifs, which reflect the craftsmanship of the era. It was a quiet and beautiful moment, and we had the stepwell almost entirely to ourselves.
BLUE CITY STROLL
After soaking in the tranquillity of the stepwell, we headed back to the hotel for breakfast and then set out to explore the Blue City. Our guide took us on a stroll through the narrow, winding streets of the old city, where every corner was a photographer’s dream. The city is called the Blue City because many of its houses are painted in shades of blue. This tradition dates back centuries and has both practical and cultural significance. The blue colour is said to help keep the houses cool during the scorching summers, as Jodhpur is also known as the Sun City for receiving the most sunlight in India. Additionally, the blue paint is believed to repel mosquitoes and symbolize the homes of Brahmin families, though today, people from all communities embrace the tradition. Every year, the houses are repainted to maintain their vibrant hue, adding to the city’s charm.
MEHRANGARH FORT
Next, we climbed up to Mehrangarh Fort, entering from the back for a unique perspective. This majestic fort, perched on a 125-meter-high hill, is one of the largest and most impressive forts in India. Built in 1459 by Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur, the fort is a testament to the might and grandeur of the Rathore dynasty. The fort’s massive walls, which are up to 36 meters high in some places, were built to withstand enemy attacks. Inside, the fort houses a museum with an incredible collection of palanquins, royal costumes, weapons, and intricate artwork. The Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace) and Phool Mahal (Flower Palace) are particularly stunning, with their elaborate decorations and historical significance. The fort also offers panoramic views of the Blue City below, making it a must-visit.
During our visit, we encountered a fascinating yet unexpected demonstration that shed light on a controversial aspect of Rajasthan's history—the tradition of opium consumption.
As we explored the fort with our guide, we noticed a man sitting on the floor, surrounded by curious onlookers. He was demonstrating how opium was traditionally consumed in Rajasthan. It was used in royal courts, social gatherings, and even before battles to boost courage and ease pain.
The demonstration was purely theatrical—the man wasn’t actually consuming opium—but it offered a glimpse into a practice that was deeply rooted in Rajasthan's history. Opium was more than just a substance; it was a symbol of hospitality, camaraderie, and even rebellion against colonial rule during the British era. However, the guide was quick to clarify that this tradition is now illegal in India. The Narcotic Drugs and Psychotropic Substances Act of 1985 strictly prohibits the production, sale, and consumption of opium, and those caught violating the law face severe penalties.
Despite the ban, opium consumption still persists in some rural areas of Rajasthan, often in secret, as part of cultural or social rituals. The guides also mentioned that some tourists, intrigued by the historical significance of the practice, seek out opportunities to try it during their travels. However, they emphasized that participating in such activities is not only illegal but also poses serious health risks. Opium is highly addictive, and its misuse can lead to long-term physical and mental health issues.
The demonstration at Mehrangarh Fort was a reminder of how history and culture can sometimes intersect with modern-day laws and ethics. While it’s fascinating to learn about these traditions, it’s equally important to approach them with respect for the law and an understanding of their potential consequences. Disclaimer: This blog post does not endorse or encourage the use of illegal substances. Always adhere to local laws and regulations while traveling.
Entrance fee: 750 INR
After exploring the fort, we visited a viewpoint to admire it from a distance. The sheer scale and beauty of Mehrangarh Fort are awe-inspiring, and it’s easy to see why it’s considered one of Rajasthan’s most iconic landmarks.
Other highlights in Jodhpur:
Umaid Bhawan Palace: A stunning palace that is part museum, part luxury hotel, and part royal residence.
Jaswant Thada: A beautiful marble memorial built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II.
Mandore Gardens: A peaceful garden with cenotaphs and temples dedicated to the Marwar rulers.
Clock Tower Market: A bustling market perfect for shopping and experiencing local life.
Later, we visited a textile shop that produces fabrics for luxury brands like Hermes and Givenchy. The craftsmanship was exceptional, and we couldn’t resist buying a beautiful blanket-like throw for our couch. It was fascinating to see how traditional Indian textiles are woven into global fashion.
LUNCH ON THE ROCKS
For lunch, we headed to On the Rocks, a popular restaurant in Jodhpur. The city is famous for its traditional dish, Kher Sangri, a unique preparation made from dried berries (kher) and beans (sangri) that grow in the arid regions of Rajasthan. The dish is tangy, spicy, and utterly delicious, offering a true taste of the desert.
JODHPUR – PUSHKAR – approx. 180 km
After lunch, we drove to Pushkar, our final destination for the day. Pushkar is one of the oldest and most sacred cities in India, known for its holy lake and Brahma Temple. However, the city felt very touristic and hippie to me, lacking the authenticity I had hoped for. The lake, surrounded by ghats, is considered sacred, and pilgrims come here to take a dip in its waters. Be cautious of people offering flowers for rituals, as they often demand money afterward.
WHERE TO STAY
HOTEL BRAHMA HORIZON PUSHKAR
We stayed at Hotel Brahma Horizon, which was decent for the price but not exceptional. The rooms were ok, and the service was adequate, but I wouldn’t wholeheartedly recommend it.
DAY 11
PUSHKAR | SANGAM OF CULTURE AND SPIRITUALITY
Known for its spiritual vibe and vibrant bazaars, Pushkar was a convenient choice as it was closer to Jaipur, our next destination. We spent our time exploring the Brahma Temple (one of the few in the world dedicated to Lord Brahma), taking a peaceful stroll around the Pushkar Lake, and soaking in the town’s laid-back atmosphere. The colourful streets, filled with pilgrims, sadhus, and tourists, offered a glimpse into Rajasthan’s spiritual side.
BUDHA TEMPLE
We visited the Budha Temple in Pushkar, a serene and lesser-known spot compared to the bustling main ghats. The temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is a peaceful retreat with a simple yet spiritual ambiance. Its quiet surroundings and unpretentious architecture made it a refreshing stop before we continued our journey.
WHAT WE WOULD’VE DONE DIFFERENTLY:We would have skipped Pushkar, or if we’d had more time, we would have ventured further into the Thar Desert to visit Jaisalmer, the Golden City. Known for its stunning sandstone architecture that glows like gold under the sun, Jaisalmer is a place that feels like it’s been plucked straight out of a fairy tale. If we ever return to Rajasthan, Jaisalmer will be at the top of our list.
PUSHKAR – JAIPUR – approx. 141 km
JAIPUR | PINK CITY
Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, is a city that epitomizes the grandeur and vibrancy of India’s royal heritage. Known as the "Pink City" for the distinctive pink hue of its buildings, Jaipur is a part of the Golden Triangle tourist circuit, along with Delhi and Agra.
Jaipur was founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, a visionary ruler who was passionate about astronomy, mathematics, and architecture. The city was designed by Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, following the principles of Vastu Shastra, making it one of the first planned cities in India. Its grid-like layout, wide roads, and perfect 90-degree intersections are a testament to its meticulous planning. The city was painted pink in 1876 to welcome the Prince of Wales, as pink symbolized hospitality. This tradition has been preserved, and the old city still retains its iconic pink hue, earning Jaipur the nickname "Pink City.
"While pink dominates the cityscape, yellow is another significant colour in Jaipur. It represents royalty and is often seen in the attire of Rajput rulers and the interiors of palaces. Temples in Jaipur, on the other hand, are a riot of colours, each hue holding symbolic meaning and reflecting the city's spiritual and cultural richness. The walled city of Jaipur originally had nine gates, each representing a different entry point. These gates, such as Chandpole Gate and Ajmeri Gate, are a reminder of the city's fortified past and strategic planning.
One of the most striking features of Jaipur is its wide roads, which intersect at perfect 90-degree angles. This unique layout not only adds to the city's charm but also makes navigation incredibly easy. During my visit, I was fascinated by how seamlessly the city's design blends functionality with aesthetics.
Jaipur is also famous for its textiles and gemstones. The city is a global hub for Sanganeri block printing, which features intricate floral and geometric patterns. The jewellery industry here is equally renowned, attracting buyers from around the world. I couldn't resist picking up a few beautifully printed fabrics and some stunning gemstone jewellery as souvenirs.
On the modern front, Jaipur is a hub for medical advancements. The city boasts state-of-the-art hospitals specializing in cancer treatment, robotic surgeries, and even advanced prosthetics like robotic legs. It's incredible to see how Jaipur balances its rich history with cutting-edge technology.
One of the highlights of Jaipur is the iconic Raj Mandir Cinema, often referred to as the "Pride of Asia." Known for its grand architecture and vibrant atmosphere, watching a Bollywood movie here is an experience in itself. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit, but it’s definitely on my list for the next trip.
PATRIKA GATE
Our first stop in Jaipur was the Patrika Gate, one of the most Instagrammable spots in the city. This vibrant gate is the entrance to Jawahar Circle Garden and is a stunning example of Rajasthani art and architecture. The gate is adorned with intricate hand-painted murals that depict the rich culture, history, and traditions of Rajasthan. Each panel tells a story, from folk dances and festivals to historical events and royal processions. The bright colours and detailed designs make it a photographer’s paradise. The surrounding gardens are equally beautiful, with well-maintained lawns, fountains, and walking paths, making it a perfect spot to relax and soak in the beauty of Jaipur.
GALTA JI TEMPLE aka MONKEY TEMPLE
Our visit to the Galta Ji Temple, commonly known as the Monkey Temple, was a lovely experience. Nestled in a narrow valley surrounded by the Aravalli Hills, this temple is not only a place of worship but also home to hundreds of monkeys, considered sacred by the locals. The temple complex is dotted with natural springs and water tanks, which are usually bustling with activity as pilgrims and monkeys alike bathe in the waters.
One thing that stood out was the presence of guides who were feeding the monkeys. While I don’t necessarily support this practice, it was interesting to observe how the monkeys interacted with the guides and visitors. The monkeys seemed quite accustomed to human presence, adding to the unique charm of the temple.
The temple itself was freshly painted, with bright blue hues dominating the walls. While I personally preferred the more natural, weathered look I had seen in pictures, I understood that the blue colour holds deep significance in Hinduism. Blue is associated with Lord Krishna, symbolizing divinity, strength, and protection. It’s also linked to the infinite and the eternal, making it a sacred colour in Hindu culture.
During our exploration, we had the pleasure of meeting a group of lovely Hindu ladies. Dressed in vibrant, colourful sarees, they were incredibly warm and welcoming. They enthusiastically posed for pictures with us, a common occurrence in India where locals often enjoy sharing moments with tourists. Their kindness and joy added a special touch to our visit, making it even more memorable.
No entrance fee
WHERE TO STAY
VILLA PALLADIO
After a day of exploration, we arrived at our accommodation, Villa Palladio Jaipur, a luxurious boutique hotel that felt like stepping into a dream. The Torre Belvedere Suite offered 360-degree views of the surrounding landscape, with its candy-cane-coloured corridors and elegant decor creating a whimsical yet sophisticated atmosphere. The design of Villa Palladio is a perfect blend of Italian palazzos and Mughal grandeur, with every detail carefully curated to reflect a sense of timeless elegance.
The hotel’s aesthetic is nothing short of breathtaking. The crimson and pastel pink walls, intricate frescoes, and lush gardens create a visual feast at every turn. The pool, surrounded by palm trees and fountains, is a tranquil oasis perfect for relaxing after a day of sightseeing. The property also features A beautiful retro car and horses, adding to its old-world charm.
Villa Palladio has been featured on the covers of Vogue, Condé Nast Traveler, The World of Interiors, and more, and it’s easy to see why. The attention to detail, from the hand-painted walls to the luxurious furnishings, is impeccable. The food, especially the Italian cuisine, was exceptional, offering a delightful fusion of flavours.
The gardens at Villa Palladio are a highlight, with their vibrant flowers, fountains, and shaded seating areas providing a perfect setting for a leisurely stroll or a quiet moment of reflection. The views of the Aravalli Hills from the property are stunning, especially during sunrise and sunset.
Instagram: @villa.palladio.jaipur
Book here: Villa Palladio Jaipur
DAY 12.
JAIPUR
HAWA MAHAL – PALACE OF WINDS
Our second day in Jaipur began with our trusted driver, Ajit, whisking us away to the iconic Hawa Mahal, also known as the "Palace of Winds." This stunning five-story structure, built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, is one of Jaipur's most recognizable landmarks. Its unique honeycomb design, featuring 953 small windows (jharokhas), was created to allow royal women to observe everyday life and festivals on the streets below without being seen. The latticework also served a practical purpose, allowing cool air to circulate through the palace, making it a perfect retreat during the scorching summers.
Shh...: While Hawa Mahal is undeniably beautiful, I’ll let you in on a little secret: you don’t necessarily have to enter the palace to appreciate its grandeur. The exterior is its most photogenic feature, and the best views can be enjoyed from outside. For a fantastic vantage point, head to the Tattoo Café, located just across the street. For a fee of 250 INR, you can access their rooftop terrace, which offers a stunning view of Hawa Mahal and is perfect for capturing those Instagram-worthy shots.
CITY PALACE
From Hawa Mahal, we took a leisurely walk to the City Palace, a sprawling complex that blends Mughal and Rajasthani architectural styles. Built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II in the early 18th century, the palace is still partially inhabited by the royal family. The complex includes courtyards, gardens, and a museum showcasing royal artifacts, including weapons, costumes, and manuscripts.
One thing to note: Photography is prohibited inside the museum, but you’re free to take pictures in the other areas. Don’t miss the Golden Room, adorned with intricate gold leaf designs, and the Blue Room, which houses an impressive collection of textiles. The palace also features four gates, each representing a different season: the Peacock Gate for autumn, the Lotus Gate for summer, the Green Gate for spring, and the Rose Gate for winter.
The entrance fee is a bit steep compared to other monuments and even Taj Mahal can’t beat this fee, but it’s worth for the glimpse into royal life.
Entrance fee: 1,000 INR for the museum ; 4,000 INR for access to the rest of the palace
JANTAR MANTAR – ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATORY
Next, we visited Jantar Mantar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most fascinating places in Jaipur. Built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II in the early 18th century, this astronomical observatory features 19 instruments designed to measure time, track celestial bodies, and predict eclipses. The most striking structure is the Samrat Yantra, the world’s largest stone sundial, which can measure time with an accuracy of just two seconds.
India’s unique 30-minute time difference from standard time zones is rooted in its geographical location. Jantar Mantar is a testament to the scientific prowess of ancient India, and exploring its instruments is like stepping back in time.
Entrance fee: 202 INR
BLOCK PRINTING
After soaking in the history, we ventured into Jaipur’s vibrant local culture. Our first stop was a block printing workshop, where artisans demonstrated the intricate process of creating patterns on fabric. While the craftsmanship was impressive, I wasn’t entirely convinced to place an order. I prefer to see how a garment looks and fits before committing, and with limited time, I didn’t want to risk needing multiple adjustments. That said, the prices were on the higher end for India, but the quality of the fabrics was exceptional.
GEMSTONES
Our next stop was Ratnavali, a renowned jewellery and gemstone shop. Jaipur is famous for its gemstones, and Ratnavali did not disappoint. The shop showcased a dazzling array of rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and more. Rubies, in particular, are a specialty of India, often sourced from the southern regions. We were treated to a fascinating demonstration of how gemstones are cut, polished, and set—a process that requires immense skill and precision. I couldn’t resist purchasing a stunning ruby necklace surrounded by diamonds.
Just outside Ratnavali, we noticed a group of locals playing cards on the floor. It was a lively scene, offering a glimpse into everyday life in Jaipur. We paused for a moment to watch their camaraderie and enthusiasm, which added a touch of local flavour to our day.
WHERE TO STAY
RAFFLES JAIPUR
By late afternoon, we arrived at our second hotel in Jaipur: the luxurious Raffles Jaipur. From the moment we stepped in, we were greeted with warmth and hospitality. We stayed in the Princess Suite, a spacious and opulent retreat complete with a private plunge pool. The suite was the epitome of comfort, blending traditional Rajasthani decor with modern amenities.
Our culinary journey at Raffles was nothing short of exceptional. We enjoyed a delightful afternoon tea, followed by a sumptuous lunch at their Indian restaurant, where the flavours were rich and authentic. Dinner at their Italian restaurant, located by the main pool on the rooftop, was equally memorable, offering a perfect blend of Italian cuisine with a Rajasthani twist.
The highlight of our stay was witnessing a traditional Indian wedding at the neighbouring Fairmont hotel. The celebrations were a riot of colour, fireworks, and elaborate rituals. It was a mesmerizing experience, and we spent hours soaking in the vibrant atmosphere.
The next morning, we indulged in an amazing in-room breakfast, a perfect way to start the day. Raffles Jaipur truly exceeded our expectations, offering a seamless blend of luxury, culture, and hospitality.
Instagram: @raffles_jaipur
Book here: Raffles Jaipur
DAY 13.
JAIPUR
Our third day in Jaipur began with a leisurely in-room breakfast by the pool at Raffles Jaipur, setting the tone for another day of exploration and discovery. Jaipur has a way of captivating you, and we couldn’t wait to dive deeper into its treasures.
AMER STEPWELL
Our first stop was the Amer Stepwell, also known as Panna Meena Ka Kund. This 16th-century stepwell is a stunning example of Rajasthan’s architectural ingenuity. Built to provide water for the local community, the stepwell features symmetrical staircases and intricate geometric patterns. It’s a photographer’s dream, with its play of light and shadow creating a mesmerizing effect.
However, due to past accidents, walking on the stairs is no longer allowed. While this is disappointing for visitors hoping to explore the structure up close, it’s a necessary measure to preserve both the site and the safety of its visitors.
No entrance fee
AMER FORT
Next, we headed to the iconic Amer Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Jaipur’s most visited landmarks. Built in the 16th century by Raja Man Singh I, this majestic fort is a blend of Hindu and Mughal architectural styles. Perched on a hill overlooking Maota Lake, Amer Fort was the residence of the Rajput Maharajas and their families.
The fort’s massive walls, made of red sandstone and marble, are a testament to its grandeur. Inside, you’ll find a series of courtyards, palaces, and gardens. Highlights include the Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace), adorned with intricate mirror work, and the Sukh Niwas, a cool retreat with a system of water channels to keep the rooms comfortable during hot summers.
There are several ways to reach the fort. We opted to drive up with our trusted driver, Ajit, who waited for us in the parking area. Other options include hiring an open Jeep or even riding an elephant. While the elephant rides may seem picturesque, they are deeply inhumane. These gentle creatures are often overworked and mistreated, and as responsible travellers, we should avoid supporting such practices.
Every evening, Amer Fort hosts a light and sound show that narrates the history of Jaipur and the fort. It’s a magical experience, but be sure to check the schedule, as timings may vary depending on the season.
Entrance fee: 502 INR
THE CLOSED PHOTO SPOT AND SNAKE CHARMERS
After exploring Amer Fort, we wanted to visit a famous photo spot near the fort walls, but it was closed due to a tragic accident that occurred there. Instead, we found a viewpoint further away to admire the fort’s grandeur.
Nearby, we encountered snake charmers, or saperas, performing with cobras. The ritual involves playing a flute-like instrument called a pungi, which the snakes appear to “dance” to. In reality, cobras cannot hear the music; they respond to the movement of the instrument. While this may seem fascinating, it’s important to recognize the cruelty behind the practice. These snakes are often kept in small boxes and only brought out for performances, leading to a life of suffering. As travellers, we should avoid supporting such activities and instead advocate for ethical wildlife experiences.
JAIGARH FORT
Nestled amidst the rugged hills of the Aravalli range, Jaigarh Fort stands as a timeless sentinel overlooking the Pink City of Jaipur. This majestic fortress, often referred to as the "Victory Fort," is a testament to the grandeur and strategic brilliance of Rajput architecture. Built in 1726 by Maharaja Jai Singh II, the fort was designed to protect the Amber Fort and its sprawling palace complex. Its imposing walls, stretching over 3 km, and its formidable structure were never breached, earning it a reputation as one of the most impregnable forts in Indian history.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Jaigarh Fort is its association with the world's largest wheeled cannon, Jaivana. Weighing a staggering 50 tons, this colossal cannon was cast within the fort's foundry during the reign of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. Though it was never used in battle, its sheer size and intricate craftsmanship make it a marvel of engineering. The cannon's massive barrel, adorned with intricate carvings, and its 50-kilogram cannonballs are a testament to the ingenuity of the Rajput artisans. Standing before Jaivana, you can't help but feel a sense of awe at its power and historical significance.
Beyond its military significance, Jaigarh Fort is a treasure trove of history and culture. The fort houses a museum that showcases an impressive collection of artifacts, including ancient manuscripts, royal costumes, and a fascinating array of weapons used by the Rajput warriors. The fort's water storage systems are equally remarkable, with massive underground tanks that could hold millions of litters of water, ensuring a steady supply during prolonged sieges. The fort's architecture is a blend of strength and elegance, with sprawling courtyards, intricately designed lattice windows, and panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
Entrance fee: 1000 INR
Vehicle fee: Additionally, there is a small fee for bringing a car into the fort premises, usually around 50 INR to 100 INR, depending on the vehicle size.
JAL MAHAL: A FLOATING PALACE
On our way back, we stopped at Jal Mahal, the “Water Palace.” This stunning structure appears to float on Man Sagar Lake and was built in the 18th century by Maharaja Madho Singh I. While visitors can only view the palace from the shore, its serene beauty and reflection on the water make it a must-see.
HOROSCOPE, FACE, AND PALM READING FROM BRAHMAN
In India, astrology is not just a belief system—it’s a way of life. Rooted in Vedic traditions, astrology plays a significant role in decision-making, from personal matters like marriage and career to major life events. It’s common for families to consult astrologers before finalizing a marriage. The kundali (birth chart) of both individuals is analysed to determine compatibility. If the charts don’t align, the marriage may not proceed, even if the couple is deeply in love. The astrologer also suggests auspicious dates for the wedding ceremony, ensuring it takes place at the most favourable time.
Astrology influences everything from the timing of religious ceremonies to the start of new ventures. Many people consult astrologers before making significant decisions, such as buying a house, starting a business, or even naming a child. Brahmans, the priestly class in Hinduism, are often the custodians of this ancient knowledge. They study the Vedas and other sacred texts to master the art of astrology, palmistry, and other spiritual practices. Their role is not just to predict the future but to guide individuals toward a harmonious and fulfilling life.
We had heard so much about it, so believing in it or not, I had to do it. It was fascinating to meet the well-known Mr. Shashi Saurabh Tripathi, who is recognized by locals and in media internationally for his expertise in astrology. The whole process was a captivating reflection of the rich cultural traditions here, making it a memorable part of our journey!
Interestingly, my ascendant differs between systems. While I am a Leo ascendant in Western astrology, I learned that in the Hindu calendar, I am classified as Cancer. This discrepancy is due to the different methods of calculation used in each system, with Hindu astrology relying on the sidereal zodiac, which is based on the actual positions of constellations, whereas Western astrology typically uses the tropical zodiac, which is aligned with the seasons.
Off to our last accommodation in Jaipur.
WHERE TO STAY
FAIRMONT JAIPUR
We checked into our next hotel, and were greeted with the warmest hospitality. From the moment we arrived at Fairmont Jaipur, it felt like stepping into a scene from a royal era. We were greeted in the most regal fashion imaginable—a gentleman holding a traditional chhatra (the ornate umbrellas used for Indian royalty) escorted us with grace. As we walked, rose petals were gently scattered over our heads, filling the air with their delicate fragrance. The rhythmic beats of the nagada (traditional Indian drums) echoed around us, accompanied by soulful folk singing that transported us to a bygone era of grandeur and elegance. It was a welcome fit for kings and queens, and truly set the tone for the luxurious experience that awaited us at this majestic property.
Once we sat down for check in, we received traditional Rajasthani bracelets, which were tied around our wrists three times—a ritual symbolizing good luck and protection.
Our room was spacious and elegant, offering a perfect blend of luxury and tradition. For lunch, we indulged in a Royal Rajasthani Thali, a feast of flavours that left us utterly satisfied.
Instagram: @fairmontjaipurindia
Book here: Fairmont Jaipur
JAIPUR AT NIGHT
Before dinner, we explored Jaipur by night, visiting Hawa Mahal, Albert Hall Museum (the oldest museum in Rajasthan, showcasing artifacts from across the state), and Jal Mahal, all beautifully illuminated. We also caught the light show at Amer Fort, a mesmerizing display that brought the fort’s history to life.
A ROMANTIC END OF THE DAY AT FAIRMONT JAIPUR
Back at Fairmont Jaipur, we were treated to a romantic bath prepared by the hotel staff, complete with rose petals and candles. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day filled with adventure.
Dinner was an unforgettable experience at Zarin, Fairmont’s Pan-Asian restaurant. The Teppanyaki Experience began with each of us hitting a gong, a ritual meant to ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune. The chef’s culinary skills were on full display as he prepared our meal with flair and precision. The evening ended with a fun twist—cutting a cake with a samurai sword, symbolizing strength and celebration.
DAY 14.
Our final day in Jaipur was bittersweet. It marked the end of our time with Ajit, our incredible driver from Driver India Private Tours, who had become more than just a guide—he was a friend who made our journey through Rajasthan seamless and unforgettable. As we drove to the airport, we couldn’t help but think how amazing it would have been to continue our adventure with him to Varanasi. If we had more time, we would have loved to explore the fascinating stops along the way, but with only one night planned in Varanasi, flying was the most practical option.
Saying goodbye to Ajit was emotional. He had been our constant companion, navigating chaotic roads, sharing stories, and ensuring we felt safe and cared for throughout our trip. As he dropped us off at the airport, we knew we were leaving behind not just a driver, but a true gem of a person.
THE AIRPORT EXPERIENCE: A TEST OF PATIENCE
Passing through security at Indian airports can be a challenging experience. The process is thorough—almost everything has to be taken out of your bags, and for women, there’s a separate security line. I had to leave my belongings, including my shoes, far away from me and walk to the women’s security checkpoint, hoping everything would still be there when I returned. Thankfully, my husband kept an eye on our valuables.
The security staff even shook my backpack like it was a cocktail mixer, despite it being filled with fragile souvenirs. You have to explain every item, and the process can feel overwhelming. Many travellers also faced issues with their checked luggage. It was one of the most complicated airport experiences I’ve ever had, but we made it through and boarded our flight to Varanasi.
JAIPUR – VARANASI – approx. 844 km / 2 hrs 10 min flight
VARANASI: THE CITY OF LIFE AND DEATH
Varanasi, also known as Kashi or Banaras, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the spiritual capital of India. Situated on the banks of the sacred Ganges River in Uttar Pradesh, Varanasi is a city that embodies the essence of Hinduism, spirituality, and ancient traditions. It is believed to be the abode of Lord Shiva, and for centuries, pilgrims have flocked to this holy city to seek salvation and cleanse their sins in the Ganges.
Varanasi is a city of contrasts, where life and death coexist in a profound and mystical way. Its narrow winding lanes, ancient temples, and bustling ghats (riverfront steps) create an atmosphere that is both chaotic and deeply serene. For travellers, Varanasi offers a unique and transformative experience, blending spirituality, history, and culture.
THE GHATS: A MICROCOSM OF LIFE AND SPIRITUALITY
Varanasi’s ghats are the heart and soul of the city. Each ghat has its own story, and walking along them is like stepping into a living, breathing tapestry of life and spirituality.
There are around 84 ghats in Varanasi, each with its own unique history, significance, and purpose. Some of the most well-known ghats include Dashashwamedh Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Assi Ghat, and Harishchandra Ghat.
BATHING IN THE GANGES
One of the most striking sights in Varanasi is the people bathing in the Ganges. For Hindus, bathing in the sacred river is believed to wash away sins and bring spiritual purification. Men, women, and children immerse themselves in the water, offering prayers and performing rituals. It’s a powerful reminder of the deep connection between the people and the river.
ON THE OTHER SIDE
The other side of the Ganges in Varanasi is relatively undeveloped compared to the bustling ghats. It is often referred to as the "other bank" or "Ganga's far side." It is quieter and less crowded, making it a peaceful retreat for those seeking solitude or meditation. Many spiritual seekers and yogis visit for quiet reflection.
Some people cross the river to perform rituals or offer prayers in a more secluded environment, away from the crowds. The other side offers stunning views of the ghats and the city, especially during sunrise and sunset. Photographers and tourists often take boats to capture the beauty of Varanasi from this vantage point.
Crossing the Ganges is typically done by small boats, which are easily available at the ghats. It’s a unique experience that offers a different perspective of Varanasi’s spiritual and cultural essence.
OFF WE GO...
Upon landing, we were greeted by a pre-booked driver who would take us to Assi Ghat, the pickup point for our hotel. Compared to Ajit, this driver was a stark contrast—he didn’t speak a word of English and honked incessantly. It was a reminder of how lucky we had been with Ajit.
WHERE TO STAY
BRIJRAMA PALACE
From Assi Ghat, we were transferred to our hotel, Brij Rama Palace, by boat. This was our first taste of Varanasi’s magic. As we glided along the Ganges, a hotel representative explained the significance of the ghats and the city’s spiritual importance. The boat ride itself was an unforgettable experience, setting the tone for our time in Varanasi.
Brij Rama Palace is a 200-year-old heritage hotel, perched on the banks of the Ganges. Its location is unparalleled, offering stunning views of the river and the bustling ghats. The hotel itself is steeped in history, having once been a fort and a residence for royalty.
We were welcomed with a traditional ceremony—a tilak on the forehead and a Rudraksha mala (sacred necklace). The tilak symbolizes blessings and protection, while the Rudraksha mala holds deep spiritual significance in Hinduism. Rudraksha beads are derived from the seeds of the Rudraksha tree and are believed to be tears of Lord Shiva. Wearing a Rudraksha mala is said to bring peace, clarity, and protection, and it is often used during meditation and prayers.
In our room, we found a bottle of Ganges water, believed to purify and bring blessings to those who keep it. The hotel also offered a 15-minute complimentary foot massage, and throughout the day, there were cultural activities like traditional dances and astrological readings.
Dinner was a highlight—a delicious Varanasi Thali served on the rooftop with a breathtaking view of the Ganges. The ambiance, combined with the flavours of local cuisine, made it a meal to remember.
Instagram: @brijhotels
Book here: BrijRama Palace
THE CREMATION SITE
In the late afternoon, we met our guide for a walking tour of Varanasi. Our first stop was the cremation site at Manikarnika Ghat, where 200-300 bodies are cremated daily. The energy there was electrifying, almost overwhelming. I couldn’t bring myself to go further and asked to leave.
In Hinduism, cremation is a sacred ritual. It’s believed that being cremated in Varanasi and having one’s ashes scattered in the Ganges liberates the soul from the cycle of rebirth (moksha). The Ganges is considered the holiest river, a manifestation of the goddess Ganga, and its waters are believed to purify and cleanse sins.
GANGA AARTI CEREMONY
Next, we witnessed the Ganga Aarti ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat. This daily ritual is a mesmerizing spectacle of fire, music, and devotion. Priests perform synchronized movements with large brass lamps, accompanied by the rhythmic chanting of mantras and the ringing of bells. The lamps are offered to the river as a symbol of gratitude and devotion.
The Aarti is a sensory feast—the flickering flames, the sound of the chants, and the sight of the river illuminated by countless diyas (oil lamps) create an atmosphere that is both electrifying and deeply spiritual.
The best way to experience the Aarti is from a boat or a rooftop, but there is a traffic jam of boats so I believe choosing rooftop instead is the better option. We were fortunate to secure rooftop seats through our guide, which offered an unobstructed view of the ceremony. Usually, it is advised to book and prepay these seats in advance, but we were lucky that our guide knew the owners. The ceremony was a sensory overload—the chanting, the flickering lamps, and the devotion of the crowd created an atmosphere that was both humbling and uplifting.
THE SHIVA TEMPLE
You could also visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. This temple is one of the most sacred in Hinduism, and the rules are strict—no phones, cameras, or bags are allowed inside. The temple’s energy is intense, and the devotion of the pilgrims is palpable. Outside the temple, we encountered young girls selling flowers. These flowers, often marigolds, are used in rituals and offerings.
DAY 15.
OUR LAST DAY IN VARANASI: A SPIRITUAL FAREWELL
Our final day in Varanasi began with a serene sunrise viewed from the rooftop of our hotel. The golden hues of the morning sun slowly illuminated the ghats and the sacred Ganges, casting a magical glow over the city. It was a moment of quiet reflection, a perfect start to our last day in this spiritual haven.
After soaking in the sunrise, we headed to the iconic BrijRama Palace for breakfast. This heritage hotel, perched right on the ghats, offered not only delicious food but also a glimpse into the grandeur of Varanasi’s royal past. Our experience was made even more special by Fahad, our kind and attentive waiter, whose warm hospitality truly made our day. Our communication was spot-on, and his smile was as bright as the morning sun.
Following breakfast, we indulged in the 15-minute complimentary foot massage at the hotel—a blissful treat that left us feeling rejuvenated. With relaxed minds and bodies, we decided to take a leisurely walk along the calmer morning coast of the Ganges. Here, we witnessed the timeless morning rituals: devotees bathing in the holy river, priests performing aarti (prayers), and locals offering flowers and lamps to the water. The air was filled with chants, the scent of incense, and the gentle lapping of the river against the steps. It was a deeply moving and fascinating experience, a reminder of why Varanasi is considered the spiritual heart of India.
WHAT ELSE TO DO IN VARANASI?
While we had an unforgettable time, Varanasi has so much more to offer, and unfortunately, we didn’t plan enough time to explore it all. But hey, that’s just another reason to come back! Here are a few things we missed but are now on our list for next time:
VISIT SARNATH: THE BIRTHPLACE OF BUDDHISM
Just 10 km from Varanasi, Sarnath is one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world. It was here that Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon after attaining enlightenment, setting the Wheel of Dharma in motion.Sarnath is a must-visit for anyone interested in history, spirituality, or architecture. It’s a place where the echoes of Buddha’s teachings still resonate.
BANARASI SILK
Varanasi is world-famous for its Banarasi silk, a luxurious fabric known for its intricate designs and fine craftsmanship. The city’s silk sarees are highly coveted, often adorned with gold and silver zari work.
What to do:
Visit a weaving workshop: Witness the skill and dedication of artisans as they create these masterpieces on traditional handlooms.
Shop for silk: Whether it’s a saree, scarf, or fabric, Banarasi silk makes for a timeless souvenir. The vibrant colours and exquisite patterns are truly one-of-a-kind.
The silk industry in Varanasi is not just about fashion; it’s a centuries-old tradition that supports countless families and keeps the city’s cultural heritage alive.
THE KUMBH MELA: A ONCE-IN-EVERY-12-YEARS EXPERIENCE
During our visit, we learned that the Kumbh Mela, one of the largest religious gatherings in the world, was taking place. Held only once every 12 years, this festival attracts millions of pilgrims, sadhus (holy men), and tourists from across the globe.
What makes the Kumbh Mela so special?
Location: The Kumbh Mela rotates between four sacred river sites: Prayagraj (Allahabad) at the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna, and Saraswati; Haridwar on the Ganges; Ujjain on the Shipra River; and Nashik on the Godavari River.
The ritual bath: The highlight is the Shahi Snan (royal bath), where devotees immerse themselves in the holy rivers to cleanse their sins and attain salvation.- The atmosphere: Imagine a sea of tents, colourful processions, chanting, and the energy of millions united in faith. It’s a spectacle unlike any other.
Interesting fact: The Kumbh Mela is so massive that it’s visible from space! It’s also recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage.
We had initially considered changing our plans to attend, but the logistics proved too complicated. Still, the Kumbh Mela remains a bucket-list experience, and we hope to witness it in the future.
GOODBYE VARANASI!
As our time in Varanasi came to an end, we left the city the way we had arrived—by boat. Gliding along the Ganges one last time, we soaked in the sights and sounds of the ghats, the temples, and the life along the river. We disembarked at Assi Ghat, where a taxi was waiting to take us to the airport for our flight to Delhi.
VARANASI – DELHI – approx. 820 km / flight 1h 35m
WHERE TO STAY
RADISSON BLU PLAZA DELHI AIRPORT
Our flight landed in Delhi, and we checked into the Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi Airport Hotel, conveniently located near the airport. After the spiritual intensity of Varanasi, the comfort and efficiency of the Radisson were a welcome change. Its proximity to the airport made it an ideal choice for an overnight stay, especially for early morning flights.
Instagram: @radissondelhi
Book here: Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi
DAY 16.
GOODBYE INDIA!
India is a land of contrasts—a country that is as chaotic as it is beautiful, as overwhelming as it is enchanting. It’s a place where ancient traditions coexist with modern aspirations, where breathtaking architecture stands alongside bustling streets, and where every corner tells a story.
From the Seven Wonders of the World and the symbol of eternal love, the Taj Mahal, to the grandeur of the Mughal Empire, the serenity of the City of Lakes (Udaipur), the vibrancy of the Blue City (Jodhpur), the elegance of the Pink City (Jaipur), and the spiritual intensity of the City of Life and Death (Varanasi), India is a tapestry of colours, flavours, and emotions. It’s a country where you can witness the majesty of Bengal tigers in the wild, lose yourself in the labyrinthine streets of ancient cities, and savour flavours that dance on your palate.
Yet, India is not without its challenges. The pollution, the litter on the streets, and the overwhelming crowds can be jarring. It’s not a perfect place, but it’s a place that stays with you. It nestles deep in your heart, leaving you with a craving for more.
India is a testament to resilience, diversity, and the enduring power of human spirit. It’s a country that defies easy definition, a place that must be experienced to be understood. And while it may not be perfect, it’s a country I’ve come to love deeply.
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