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Writer's pictureIzabel Philippa

Jordan | From the Lowest Point of Earth to the ‘’Lost City’’, and the Valley of the Moon in a Week


Jordan not only hosts one of the ‘’Seven Wonders of the World’’ and UNESCO World Heritage Site - Petra, but its lands are like a Magic Carpet bringing the country’s visitors to fairy tale places. Dive into the rich subaquatic world of the Red Sea, walk on salt ‘’sculptures’’ followed by floating in the Dead Sea and feel the Bedouin life while getting lost in desolate valleys with red and white sand dune desert stretches in Wadi Rum.


Jordan is a very trendy and safe laid-back destination where you could simply enjoy and brush out the worries away while teleporting to a world of timelessness and serenity.


Below you will find my one-week itinerary starting from Aqaba. I will of course share all the useful tips I collected during my journey.


 

GENERAL INFORMATION

Location: Jordan is a Middle East country located on the east bank of the Jordan River, bound by Saudi Arabia to the east and south, Israel / Palestine to the west, Syria to the north and the Red Sea to the south.


Size: 89,342 km2


Capital: Amman


Population: 10,455,106 (2022)


Language: Arabic


Currency: Jordanian Dinar. For reference: 1 JOD = 1,31 EUR ; 1 JOD = 1,41 USD


Economy: Jordan is a developing country with the biggest income coming from major heavy industries such as the extraction of phosphate, petroleum refining and cement production.


Best time to visit: The best time to visit Jordan is during spring (March-May), or autumn (September-November). During these periods the days are warm, but you should prepare for cool nights – clothes layering is the key. Summer could be too hot but if you want to visit Wadi Mujib keep in mind that the ‘’wet’’ trails are open only from April to the end of October.


What to pack: Layer clothes; mosquito repellent; good sunscreen protection; sunglasses; comfortable shoes; a hat or a head covering/ dust scarf (you could buy the traditional Jordanian red and white keffiyeh).


Photography: It is strictly forbidden to take pictures of guards, and government- and military buildings.


*Drone: You could bring a drone into the country ONLY after CARC registration. You should apply for approval at least 10 working days before your trip (don’t count on that – because we applied one month before our departure to Jordan and we never got a reply despite the several reminders we sent). However, if you want to try your luck, you can submit the online Drone Operations Application Approval Form by clicking here (carc.gov.jo).

  • Prepare to upload a copy of your passport; proof of insurance; license and flight logs.

Stay connected: You can straight get your prepaid SIM card after landing at King Hussein International Airport and Queen Alia International Airport. We chose to purchase 46 GB data (13 JOD) from Orange and it worked pretty well, except in Wadi Rum. Other mobile providers in Jordan are Zain and Umniah, with Zain being the main mobile phone company in the country.


HOW TO GET AROUND

  • Car rental – if you want to be flexible and visit Jordan at your own pace, I recommend you rent a car. We chose Europe Car and despite having a nail in our tyre the trip went pretty well (no 4x4 needed).

  • By bus – many tourists choose this option which is not the most reliable one as the buses depart when they are full and rarely follow their timetable (this is what I read online, not my experience).

  • Guided tour


 

MUST-KNOW BEFORE TRAVELING TO JORDAN | HOW TO SAVE TIME AND MONEY

Purchase the ‘Jordan Pass’ online before arrival - this will not only get you a free entrance to over 40 sights (Petra, Jerash, Wadi Rum etc.) but the visa cost when entering the country is also included in the pass. Waiving the visa fees is possible only if you stay in Jordan for 3 nights (4 days) and it covers a single entry, so keep this in mind if you plan to visit a neighbouring country and return to Jordan afterwards.


The price of the Jordan Pass depends on how many times you plan to visit Petra. If you want to visit it only once the price of the Pass is 70 JOD (Jordan Wanderer); for 2 days - 75 JOD (Jordan Explorer); for 3 days - 80 JOD (Jordan Expert). The ticket to Petra by Night is not included in the price of the Jordan Pass and costs an additional 17 JOD. It cannot be purchased online.


Another sight that isn’t included in the Jordan Pass is Bethany Beyond the Jordan (Baptism Site). However, you can add it to the pass by paying 8 JOD. On-site, the price is 12 JOD.


 

DAY BY DAY ITINERARY

DAY 1.

Arrival at King Hussein International Airport Aqaba (AQJ).


First things first – we bought a SIM card from Orange which is located on the left side before the exit of the airport. There is no way to miss it. We paid 13 JOD for 46 GB of data.


Next step – picking up our car rental. The ‘’office’’ of our Europe Car Rental was in the trunk of a car located in the parking of the airport. However, we were happy with the service and except for having a nail in the tyre which was fixed a few days later thanks to the kind assistance of Four Seasons Amman, we didn’t have any other issues.


KING HUSSEIN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT – AQABA – approx. 10 km


AQABA

We arrived in the afternoon and were impressed by the road leading from the airport to Aqaba. Palm trees on both sides, well-paved, quiet and quick route.


Aqaba is a port city located on the shores of the Red Sea famous for its coastline resorts, diving, and watersports. This is why we reserved the rest of the afternoon for Red Sea beach time.


WHERE TO STAY


MÖVENPICK AQABA

Located in the centre of Aqaba, on the seacoast of the Red Sea and only 10 km away from King Hussein International Airport, Mövenpick Aqaba is an amazing way to start or finish your Jordan adventure.


I miss their friendly staff, the comfort and the great sunset sea views from our suite. You won’t go wrong trying their rich buffet meals, or a lovely breakfast served in the room.


Instagram: @movenpickaqaba


 

DAY 2.

AQABA

Look in the waters of the Red Sea and you will notice the Aqaba Flagpole. With its height of 130 metres, the Arab Revolt Flagpole is the 7th tallest flagpole in the world.


We wanted to visit Masjid Al Sheikh Zayed Mosque which is inspired by the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. Unfortunately, it was temporarily closed. If you don’t rent a car, keep in mind that this mosque isn’t located very centrally. It lies in a newly developing area of the city. Before going there check on Google if the mosque is operating right now because, by the time of writing this article, the place is still marked as ‘’Temporarily Closed’’.


Other points of interest: Sharif Hussein Bin Ali Mosque; Aqaba Castle; Islamic Ayla City; Aqaba Park; Aqaba Bird Observatory

Diving experiences: C-130 Hercules Aircraftwreck; Cedar Shipwreck; The Seven Sisters


AQABA – MÖVENPICK DEAD SEA RESORT & SPA – approx. 270 km


We hit the road to reach the lowest point on Earth - the Dead Sea. The journey took us around 3 hours. There are some checkpoints on the way the biggest of which is at the exit of Aqaba – it looked and felt like we are crossing a border. Don’t worry though, all policemen we met along the way were very friendly. These regular checks seem to be more of a ‘’happy day wish’’ stops – they were just asking for our nationalities and never requested any documents…


You should also know that at most hotels, there are security checks, and they will briefly inspect the trunk of your car, followed by a security screening of your luggage.


WHERE TO STAY


MÖVENPICK DEAD SEA RESORT & SPA

Located on the northern shores of the Dead Sea, the 6,000 m2 Mövenpick Dead Sea Resort & Spa area nestles 9 bars and restaurants on its territory. Famous for being home to Zara Spa which has earned an award for being the best spa in Jordan.


Simply inhale and enjoy the jaw-dropping views of the healing waters stationed just below the resort. You can watch those views from the infinity pool of Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea. The curative waters of the lowest point on Earth are huddled just below the award-winning SPA. Before floating in them you could “fly” above and breathe in the healing evaporation powers of the salt lake.


Here my partner and I celebrated our 7th anniversary, and we couldn’t have imagined it better.


Instagram: @movenpickdeadsea


Reached the lowest point of Earth

ℹ️ | DEAD SEA

  • With its current elevation of 430 metres below sea level and salinity of 34%, the Dead Sea is completely devoid of life. Inside the water, there are some microorganisms and algae but due to the salinity levels no other forms of life could survive in those conditions.

  • In the past 50 years the water levels, of the Dead Sea dropped by around 50 meters.

  • The waters of the Dead Sea have healing properties and many people come to its shores for a retreat. The healing powers of the 26 beneficial minerals of this place help with chronic skin, respiratory and joint problems. Breathing the allergen-free air, or applying mud on your skin is proven to help asthma, psoriasis, arthritis, skin impurities, acne, back pain etc.

  • Enjoy the calming and detoxifying effects of this unique place while staying in one of the resorts located on the coastline. There you will be able to apply the famous Dead Sea mud on your skin.


FUN FACT: The Dead Sea is actually a salt lake nestled between Jordan and Israel.


 

DAY 3.

WILD DEAD SEA BEACHES EXPLORATION AND FLOATING AT SUNRISE


WHERE TO FIND THE WILD DEAD SEA SALT FORMATIONS?

Due to the drastically dropping water levels, you can find and admire those edgy salt block formations located on the wild beaches. To get to them you need to drive on the southern part of the Dead Sea. You will easily spot them as the route is passing directly by the seashore. At many spots, you can park your vehicle and explore. A small hike down will bring you to these jaw-dropping salt “sculptures”.

Coordinates: 31°23’48.9”N 35°32’46.3”E


GOOD TO KNOW

  • ⚠️The salt crystals on the shore are very sharp and you could cut your feet so bring shoes to walk. The spots being drizzled with water are smoother and you could step barefoot on them. Don’t forget - floating in the Dead Sea is a must. Bring your newspaper for a picture.

  • Another important point to note is that if you have any wounds the salt waters will sting and it will make you feel very uncomfortable, so prepare to bring some fresh water to wash yourself straight away as there are no showers on these “wild beaches”.

  • Don’t put your face underwater and at all costs avoid water getting in your eyes.

  • Be aware that at the time of our visit (beginning of December), there are millions of flies at the Dead Sea and you will have them flying around and landing on your face all the time. I even swallowed one while floating. My plant-based diet was violated.

After we floated and took some pictures at the Dead Sea we went back to the hotel for washing off the salt and have breakfast.


If you have more time in the area you could also explore:

WADI MUJIB

We wanted to visit the 70 km Wadi Mujib canyon stretches starting from the Desert Highway, soaring over the Mujib River and ending at the opening of the Dead Sea.


Unfortunately, as mentioned Wadi Mujib is closed during winter – well there is only one trail open. The ‘’wet’’ trails however could be explored from April to the end of October and must be booked in advance. All trails include a guide and require a minimum of 5 people. The hikes have different durations and difficulties. During these ‘’canyon expeditions’’ visitors could enjoy the flora and fauna, cross the river, see waterfalls, do canyoning etc. You should make sure to choose the trail which will best suit you and your physical condition, but in all cases prepare to get wet.


For those of you who want to challenge yourself, you could go for the 7-hour, 15 km long Mujib Trail (it costs 45 JOD + you need to book at the RSCN’s Wild Jordan Office in Amman). If you want to explore without testing your limits you could go for an easy to moderate route like the Siq Trail. If you are an adrenaline junkie and want to have the opportunity to descend a 20-meter-high waterfall – the Canyon Trail is the one for you.


INTERESTING FACT: Wadi Mujib was once known as the Arnon Valley believed to be the place where Moses led the Israelites across.


MOUNT NEBO

We didn’t have enough time, but if you do, you could visit Mount Nebo, which is about 35 minutes away from the Dead Sea. This ridge rising 710 metres above sea level is part of the Abarim mountain range and is known from the Bible for being the place where Moses spent his last days of life and saw the Promised Land. It is believed that his body may be buried there or in Wadi Mujib, but this hasn’t been proven yet.


If you want to challenge yourself, you could climb Mount Nebo - the hiking trail has an average duration of 6 h 20 min. The best times to do this hike are March through October.

You could also go by car and skip the hiking trail. After parking in front of the visitor centre, a short walk will bring you to the Memorial Church of Moses and the Serpent Statue. Either way, don’t forget to admire the amazing views of the Dead Sea, the valley of the Jordan River, and Bethlehem and by a clear day, you could even see Jerusalem from above.

Entrance fee: 3 JOD (not included in the Jordan Pass)


MADABA

Dive into the city of ancient Byzantine-era mosaics. There you will find the oldest 6th-century mosaic map of the Holy Land. It is part of the floor of the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George’s.

You can easily reach Madaba from the Dead Sea area and Amman. The distance from both destinations is similar – about 40 km.


back to my itinerary…

MÖVENPICK DEAD SEA RESORT & SPA – BETHANY BEYOND THE JORDAN – approx. 22 km


THE BAPTISMAL SITE OF JESUS CHRIST | BETHANY BEYOND THE JORDAN

Religious or not, Christian or not, I bet this place will awaken your curiosity as it did with us. As mentioned, if you didn’t prepay your visit while purchasing your Jordan Pass (+8 JOD) it won’t be included in your pass and the entrance fee is 12 JOD to be paid on-site. On arrival , after parking your car and paying for the entrance ticket, you will embark on a little bus which together with other passengers and a guide will bring you to the beginning of a short walk to the Baptismal Site of Jesus Christ. You will walk on the Jordanian bank of the Jordan River which separates and serves as a border with Palestine / Israel.

I am happy we went to visit this holy Christians place but don’t expect to be impressed. If you are not religious and you don’t have much time to waste, you could easily skip this spot.


BETHANY BEYOND JORDAN – AMMAN – approx. 52 km


WHERE TO STAY

FOUR SEASONS AMMAN

Four Seasons Amman is the first and only hotel in Jordan to receive the Forbes Five-Star Rating and I see why. The hotel guests are rewarded with outstanding service, quality food, amazing city views and great SPA. Four Seasons Amman is set atop the tallest of Amman’s seven hills and it’s a great spot to start your Jordan adventure or simply indulge your senses. On arrival, a small surprise is awaiting you – a sweet foretaste of the iconic Petra.


Try their classic French brasserie dining options or drinks at La Capitale, and at breakfast don’t skip trying foul – one of Jordan’s oldest and most important dishes.


We had a problem with our car which we postponed properly taking care of for several days (don’t do that – it’s dangerous). However, upon our arrival in Amman, we saw that this issue had to be urgently fixed. We had a nail in the tyre, and Four Seasons were super kind to assist us and prepare us for a safe journey in no time. Thank you for everything!


Instagram: @fsamman


 

DAY 4.

AMMAN CITY SIGHTSEEING


AMMAN CITADEL

There are free parking spots in front of the entrance and the sight is included in the Jordan Pass. Don’t forget to pass for a stamp at the ticket office.


The Citadel is nestled on the top of the highest hill in Amman and opens wonderful views of the city including the Roman Theater. The great downtown location makes it an amazing lookout spot and the perfect starting point to explore more of Jordan’s capital.

Some of the Amman Citadel’s ruins date back to the Bronze Age. You will find remains of the Temple of Hercules, Umayyad Palace, Umayyad Cistern, a former governor’s residence, a Byzantine Basilica etc. If you want to satisfy your curiosity and learn more about the remains get inside the Jordan Archaeological Museum where you will see some artefacts discovered around the Citadel.


ROMAN THEATER

After visiting Amman Citadel go out and continue walking down the street where on your right side you will see stairs. Go down the stairs and continue straight until you see more stairs which will bring you to the Roman Theater. The walk takes around 15 minutes.

The Roman Theater is included in the Jordan Pass – you just need a stamp.


The steep stairs of the amphitheatre could seat up to 6,000 people and thanks to its north orientation the spectators were offered some protection from the sun.

Nowadays, the restored Roman Theater hosts summer concerts and plays. There you could visit the Jordan Folklore Museum and the Jordan Museum of Popular Traditions.


Other points of interest: Rainbow Street; Jordan Museum; the Forum; Odeon; Nymphaeum; Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts; Al-Husseini Mosque; Royal Automobile Museum; Royal Tank Museum


half-day trip ideas from Amman:

QASR-AL-ABD

A desert palace built from some of the largest blocks in the Middle East this earthquake survival is showcasing Hellenistic architecture in Jordan. Qasr-al-Abd is located about 20 minutes from Amman.


MADABA

Jordan’s Mosaic City is located about 40 km from Amman. I’ve mentioned it as a day trip option from the Dead Sea as the distances from there and from Amman are the same.


JERASH

Located 45 minutes (50km) north of Amman, Jerash is known for its well-preserved ruins of the walled Greco-Roman settlement of Gerasa. It is one of the largest sites of Roman architecture outside of Italy.


AMMAN – PETRA – approx. 235 km


WHERE TO STAY

PETRA MOON HOTEL or MÖVENPICK PETRA

We considered both hotels but stayed at Petra Moon Hotel because Mövenpick Petra was fully booked. However, the two properties are perfectly located – next to the entrance of Petra. For those of you who want to get up and be there first thing before everyone else, these are the most convenient accommodations.

We weren’t impressed by the rooms, and we didn’t even have a breakfast booked because our goal was to spend our entire time discovering Petra and I don’t regret it. Honestly, the best choice.


Instagram: @petramoonhotel

Book here: Petra Moon Hotel


 

DAY 5.


PETRA – THE LOST CITY AND ONE OF THE NEW SEVEN WONDERS OF THE WORLD

6 AM - 10:30 PM Petra expedition – from Petra by dawn to Petra by Night


The “Rose City” of stone is carved in the rocks creating a true wonder. Walking in this valley surrounded by majestic vibrant cliffs instils respect, awakes curiosity, and spreads a powerful message to the world - even with fewer tools people could create miracles…

These miracles are imprinted in those massifs and will remain remarkable examples for future generations.


FUN FACT: The Swiss traveller Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, rediscovered Petra in 1812. He hoodwinked the guardians of the site by pretending to be an Arab from India who wanted to make a sacrifice at the tomb of the Prophet Aaron.


How to get to this viewpoint: This is one of the two Insta-perfect Treasury photo spots from above. I prefer it more than the higher one so if you don’t want to do the two get to this one - easier to reach and more photogenic. Climbing here is only allowed with a local guide after paying a small fee to bring you there. The “climb” is very easy so no worries about that - if needed the guide will help you.




TIPS FOR VISITING PETRA:

  • If you have purchased the Jordan Pass for 70 JOD, you can explore Petra for a day. If you want to stay a few days, remember to take the Jordan Pass including 2-day visits of Petra - 75 JOD, or 3 days for 80 JOD.

  • If you want to see the silent beauty of Petra at least for a moment, come first thing in the morning when the gates open which is at 6 AM. However, we were not allowed to enter until 6:30 AM as the ticket office which was supposed to put a stamp on our Jordan Pass was closed.

  • If you don’t have the Jordan Pass you could buy an entrance ticket, find a guide, take a map etc. from the Visitors Centre.

  • Wear comfortable shoes and be prepared for a lot of walking. If you don’t have any health issues you can do it and you will feel great that you explored it on foot. So please don’t use the “services” of the horses, camels and the poor donkeys that have to climb 1000 stairs carrying you on their back to reach the Monastery. We were advised that it was an hour’s hike but it took us 30 minutes to get to the Monastery. The walk to the Treasury and highlight of Petra which you can see on postcards and everywhere on the Internet is easily reachable - it’s a 2 km walk on flat terrain. If you walk in the dark watch your step though.

  • Layer clothes - mornings and evenings could be chilly, but the temperatures rise dramatically during the day.

  • Bring plenty of water - stay hydrated. Inside Petra, there are toilets and few restaurants but you could also buy and bring your food from the outside.



PETRA BY NIGHT

PRO TIPS & INFO
  • You can watch Petra by Night every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday evening starting at 8:30 PM.

  • If you wish to see the “virgin” beauty of this place, and get a nice picture before the magic of Petra by Night disappears (when the crowds arrive) simply don’t go out of Petra and remain on site after closing times. You can buy your tickets from the rangers before the start of the show. If you already have them simply show the tickets to remain inside. This will give you enough time to take some pictures before everyone comes and sits in between the candles.


Is it worth it to spend 17 JOD to experience Petra by night?

We loved to see the Treasury with all the candles as a backdrop for our content. However, if you expect to experience moments of enchanted tranquillity it won’t happen because it gets really busy which kills the entire vibe. We left before the end of the show to avoid being stuck in a “traffic jam” on the way back.


💡 If you leave earlier you will fall under the spell of the candlelit path leading to the exit.


 

DAY 6.

HALF A DAY IN PETRA

We spent the morning roaming the Siq and walking not far from the Treasury of Petra. We wanted to breathe in once again the powerful energy passing through the valley of this place. If we were not in a hurry to go to Wadi Rum, we would have loved to stay the entire day in this world wonder.


PETRA – WADI RUM – approx. 115 km


After about 2 hours journey to Wadi Rum, we reached our last expedition area. We had to register our entry and get another stamp on our Jordan Pass before going any further.


Wadi Rum or the Valley of the Moon feels like you are landed on another planet. Here you can explore the desert with a local guide, overnight in a “bubble glamp” and do some amazing stargazing. Meet you by the glamp-fire.


Each of the desert camps in Wadi Rum has private parking where you have to let your car and you will be picked up by a 4x4 vehicle which will bring you to your camp.


The data coverage of Orange was working in the town of Wadi Rum, but not in the wilderness of the desert or by the camps. There you could use their public Wifi which works only in the common areas.

We stayed in two camps and we liked and could recommend both, but if you have to choose one, I would advise you to go to Bubble Luxotel.


WHERE TO STAY


MEMORIES AICHA LUXURY CAMP

Welcome to Mars. The rooms and the views from this camp were really nice. We also liked the sunset hiking view, but what we didn’t like was the food and the smell of the restaurant.

P.S. Keep in mind that there is zero internet connection in the bubbles. This was ok for us because it’s part of the experience but I believe it’s good to know.


Instagram: @aichaluxury


 

DAY 7.


WADI RUM DESERT JEEP TOUR | HIGHLIGHTS

  1. Lawrence’s Sprin

  2. Khazali Canyon

  3. Sand dunes

  4. Anfishiyeh Inscriptions

  5. Raqabat al Wadak / Little Bridge

  6. Lawrence’s House

  7. The Mushroom Stone

  8. Burdah Rock Bridge

  9. Umm Fruth Arch

  10. Abu Khashaba Canyon

  11. Barra Canyon



We booked our tour through Wild Wadi Rum - a Bedouin family-owned company providing an authentic desert experience and eager to show you the way of the desert-dweller.


Instagram: @wildwadirum


The tour duration is up to you and your booking. You can choose from 2-hour to multi-day tours. We went for the 5-hour tour option and we saw the main spots of interest. Of course, you could choose and personalize the program the way you want. You might not want to climb the dunes or walk through the canyons which you could exchange for something else or spend longer at a location of your choice.


I was impressed by the striking stretches of red and white sands, the perfectly sculptured by nature sandstone peaks and formations, the Anfishiyeh Inscriptions, the Burdah Rock Bridge and the Umm Fruth Arch.


💡TIPS:

  • During the tour, you will sit outside on two parallel benches on the back part of the vehicle and at every location, you will be able to leave the “trunk” and explore. It’s quite cool.

  • Take a jacket and/ or a scarf as even if the weather is warm you might get chilly due to the movement of the car + this will help you protect yourself from the sun, sand and wind.

  • Wear comfortable shoes as you will need them for reaching the hotspots of the tour.

  • Bring water - water was provided for us by the tour agency but be prepared just in case.

  • My recommendation is to book at least a 5-hour tour because even if it sounds long, time flies very quickly. Keep in mind that you won’t be always sitting and being driven around - there are some short hikes where you will want to spend a bit of time inhaling the beauty of the desert and capturing the moment.


WHERE TO STAY


BUBBLE LUXOTEL WADI RUM

Welcome to our favourite Martian bubble suite with a private jacuzzi. The Bubble Luxotel was quite spacious and super comfortable. What a great place to lay in bed and do some stargazing before your eyes get too tired, and incapable to resist and stay open despite the beautiful night view.

Here you might have Wifi connection in our bubble plus the food and the service were great.


Instagram: @bubble_luxotel


 

DAY 8.

Slow morning at our lovely bubble before leaving back to the airport to end our journey.


WADI RUM – KING HUSSEIN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT – approx. 66 km


What a trip - celebrating our 7th anniversary in Jordan ready to discover another one of the Seven Wonders of the World together. We pressed the mute button on the rest of the world and completely soaked into the lost holy lands and endless stretches of desert wilderness boldly brush stroked by eminence grounds and the white magic of the salt sculptures.



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